[Milsurplus] [ARC5] Wire

Thu Sep 15 21:50:13 EDT 2011

The outer coat is to reduce friction for pulling through conduit. I've seen 16 
and 18 AWG, but yeah, we get it 10,000 feet at a time on big spools. Yes, 
printed with rating, it is required by the inspectors. If you are having trouble 
getting to sleep you can have a conversation about what the rating means with my 
safety and compliance guy.

On 9/15/2011 9:35 PM, J. Forster wrote:
> Yes and no. It can be either nylon coated or not. Look at the spools of
> THHN at Home Depot or a similar place. THHN is mostly a temperature spec.
>
> There are other options like MTW.
>
> Also, THHN in sizes smaller than #14 is hard to get. It may be available
> through an electronics supplier, but you probably have to buy 1000'
> minimum.
>
> Finally, modern THHN is printed along its length. WW II wire was generally
> not, or if it was, it had circuit numbers on it.
>
> Best,
>
> -John
>
> ================
>
>
>> Nylon coated PVC sounds like THHN electrical conduit wire.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/15/2011 9:12 PM, J. Forster wrote:
>>> YW. It looks OK for chassis wiring, but, sadly, not for cables. I'm not
> sure there are any good alternatives to stranded Teflon in Expando
>>> for cables. The nylon coated PVC seems to be very hard to get.
>>> -John
>>> ===============
>>>> It may not be cheap but it's a heck of a lot easier.  Thanks, John!
> Best regards,
>>>> Michael, WH7HG ex-K3MXO, ex-KN3MXO, WPE3ARS, BL01xh ex-Mensa A&P PP
> BGI
>>>> I am me.  I’m the only one who’s qualified.
>>>> http://www.nationalmssociety.org/chapters/NTH/index.aspx
>>>> http://wh7hg.blogspot.com/
>>>> http://kludges-other-blog.blogspot.com
>>>> Hiki Nô!
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: J. Forster [mailto:jfor at quikus.com]
>>>> Sent: Thursday, 15 September, 2011 14:50
>>>> To: h Kludge
>>>> Cc: arc5 at mailman.qth.net; milsurplus at mailman.qth.net
>>>> Subject: Re: [ARC5] Wire
>>>> Not cheap, but:
>>>> http://tubesandmore.com/Catalog/page_084_085.php
>>>> -John
>>>> ===========
>>>>> In looking at the fabric over rubber wiring used way back when, there
> seem
>>>>> to be two different flavors, one that has the fabric kind of loose
> and
>>>>> easily frayed and the other has the fabric somehow bonded to the rubber
>>>>> which reduces fraying and makes for neater work.  Since I’m going to try
>>>>> my
>>>>> hand at making fabric over something wire in an attempt at making things
>>>>> appear even more authentic*, it would be nice to know how it was done
> originally.  “Something” may wind up plastic, vinyl or Teflon
> dependent
>>>>> on
>>>>> what I can get that looks right as to overall bulk.
>>>>> * I may even try lacing in the tracers which would probably not be good
>>>>> therapy when they take me back to psych lockdown as a result of this
> activity.  Nor would basket weaving.  :-)
>>>>> The way I think this will work is to use white older type flat
> shoelaces,
>>>>> wet them and force them over forms (read as: dowels) while they dry
> to
>>>>> reduce or take out the creases.  (This may also require a bit of
> ironing.)
>>>>> After that, introduce them to some RIT dye to get the right base colors
>>>>> for
>>>>> color coded wiring and put them back over the forms to dry.  Assuming
> (and
>>>>> we all know what that word means) this works as planned, I may actually
>>>>> try
>>>>> lacing in the tracers although it would be insanely time&   labor
> intensive
>>>>> and only a few people would actually realize that the tracers are
> supposed
>>>>> to be there.  I think all of them are in these lists.  Anyway, a little
>>>>> yellow varnish to give it the official MFP look and I should have
> wire
>>>>> good
>>>>> for open cables.
>>>>> If the basic project goes well – i.e., the part about using shoelaces to
>>>>> make a reasonable facsimile of WW II cloth covered wire – the next step
>>>>> would be to use the same basic technique to make vinyl over white woven
>>>>> fabric over vinyl wiring used in later aircraft.  I’m not sure I know
> what
>>>>> to seal the fabric with but after that’s done the top coat can be a dip
>>>>> in
>>>>> Dip-It clear vinyl.  If this works as I think it will, this will
> solve
>>>>> the
>>>>> problem of wiring up the Type 12 equipment with more or less period
> appropriate open wire.
>>>>> Using shoelaces presents two problems right off.  First, the prices
> of
>>>>> good
>>>>> ones that don’t have the funky seams on each edge and are small
> enough
>>>>> have
>>>>> gone out of sight.  Second, it limits the size of any given run to
> the
>>>>> length of the longest laces I can find.  On the other hand, for
> everything
>>>>> except the SCR-A*-183 I’ll be using open wiring as much as possible,
> mostly
>>>>> because I like it but also because a good number of my connectors are
> for
>>>>> open wiring and it’s easier to convert the ones that aren’t to that than
>>>>> it
>>>>> is the ones for open wiring to shielded cable.
>>>>> So there it is.  Thoughts?
>>>>> Best regards,
>>>>> Michael, WH7HG ex-K3MXO, ex-KN3MXO, WPE3ARS, BL01xh ex-Mensa A&P PP BGI
>>>>> I am me.  I’m the only one who’s qualified.
>>>>>    <http://www.nationalmssociety.org/chapters/NTH/index.aspx>
>>>>> http://www.nationalmssociety.org/chapters/NTH/index.aspx
>>>>>    <http://wh7hg.blogspot.com/>   http://wh7hg.blogspot.com/
>>>>>    <http://kludges-other-blog.blogspot.com/>
>>>>> http://kludges-other-blog.blogspot.com
>>>>> Hiki Nô!
>>>>> ______________________________________________________________ ARC5
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