[Milsurplus] New electrolytic capacitor the size.

[Spike Dennis]

The aluminum solder works but is very caustic & once your iron is tinned with it that's about all it's good for from then on.
Try this first, put a drop or two of light machine oil on the place to be soldered. Then scuff up that same area through the oil. Then solder right through the oil.

What makes aluminum so hard to solder to is the fact that it oxidizes immediately when exposed to the air. The oil prevents this oxidation.

KB0SFP
Monitor(all USB): 
3996, 5403.5, 7296, 14342.5, 18157.5



----- Original Message ----
> From: J. Forster <jfor at quik.com>
> To: John Hutchins <olegerityincj at austin.rr.com>
> Cc: milsurplus <milsurplus at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 9:44:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Milsurplus] New electrolytic capacitor the size.
> 
> There is an aluminum solder you might try. I saw some at Home Depot. The
> flux is very corrosive, so it needs to be very well cleaned.
> 
> FWIW,
> -John
> 
> 
> 
> > Group -
> > Ordered my first electrolytic capacitors in at least  25 years.  Holy
> > cow they are at lease 1/3 the volume of the old WWII style caps for the
> > same ratings and value!  With the correct tools you could open the old
> > cans and easily replace the old contents with the new CAP and then
> > remount.
> >
> > Begs the question A method to attach leads to the old aluminum can?
> >  Method One: Use a light spot welder to attach the negative lead to the
> > aluminum can?
> >      If so what type of welding stick do I need?
> >      If so what kind of flux would be required to weld lead to can?
> > Method TWO?
> >
> > Need dig up the suggestions on an un-crimping tool and re-crimping
> > methods posted earlier.
> >
> > Just amazed
> > Hutch
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> 
> 
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