[Milsurplus] GRR-5 Parts needed

[Fibber]

My problem is that I am MISSING the whole thing. Nothing to repair :-(

-Christopher


WA5CAB at cs.com wrote:
> Fibber & Al,
> 
> Sometimes it can take up to 12 hours to break through the sulfide layer.  
> Also, for 6 volt and under vibrators, I recommend a 25 watt light bulb.  For 12 
> or 24 volt ones, a 12 watt is sufficient. 
> 
> And although the two vibrators used in the PP-308 only came in Series Drive, 
> some WW-II and some Korean War vintage sets used Shunt Drive vibrators (or 
> both types interchangably).  Clearing the contacts in these is a little more 
> complicated.
> 
> And finally, in the general case it isn't only the contact set that controls 
> the coil that you must clear.  Once you get the thing vibrating, you have to 
> go on and clear the rest of the contacts as well.  To do a 3H6691-15 (the 
> vibrator in question) requires three light bulbs (the 2nd and 3rd can be 12 watt), 
> or at least two if you do the NC and NO contacts one at a time.
> 
> In a message dated 7/20/2006 7:57:07 PM Central Daylight Time, al at ar88.net 
> writes: 
> 
>>Fibber,
>>
>>It's usually possible to "wake up" an old vibrator.  Clip-lead the coil, 
>>normally-closed input contacts, and a 60-watt light bulb in series, and 
>>apply 117 VAC for 30 seconds or so.  Apparently, sulfur, used to 
>>vulcanize the foam rubber found inside, oxidizes the contacts.  High 
>>voltage breaks through the coating and allows them to burn clean in 
>>short order.  Even NOS vibrators suffer this malady.  I'm about 9 for 9 
>>with this procedure.
>>
>>
> 
> 
> Robert Downs - Houston
> <http://www.wa5cab.com> (Web Store)
> MVPA 9480
> <wa5cab at cs.com> (Primary email)
> <wa5cab at houston.rr.com> (Backup email)
> 


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