[Milsurplus] Replacement lamps for R-1051

[ersmar at comcast.net]

John:

     Please:  Nolan who?  What web page?  Many thanks.

73 de
Gene Smar  AD3F


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "jwatkins" <jwatkins at omantel.net.om>
> Hi All,
> 
> Just made 2 White LED "Frankenbulbs" (thanks Nolan) for my R-1051.  The LEDS
> used are the Radio Shack variety.  I followed Nolan's procedure (see his web
> site) for separating the lamp into 2 parts (One the base and one the brass
> sleeve with plastic insulator (leave the insulator on the brass sleeve),
> then used a Dremal tool to remove the adhesive and bad bulb from the brass
> sleeve part.  Next step was to epoxy the LED into the brass sleeve part of
> the bulb.  I then drilled 2 small holes in the base portion of the lamp one
> for the neg lead of the LED, and one to put more epoxy into after the final
> assy.  After the epoxy set around the LED, I cut 2 small slits with my dikes
> (small wire cutters) the width of the pos lead on the LED and folded the
> resulting small piece of brass sleeve wall down (toward the inside of the
> brass sleeve).  I then bent the pos lead into the resulting notch, and
> soldered it to the bent down piece of brass sleeve wall. Next I dressed the
> resulting solder blob (not really a blob) down with some careful work with a
> jewelers file (just want to bring the surface back to original dimensions).
> Next job was to press fit the 2 parts back together again (this is why we
> used the jewelers file on the solder blob), sliding the neg lead through one
> of the holes in the base.  I then soldered the neg lead to the base, once
> again using Nolan's method of putting the brass sleeve with plastic
> insulator in a bit of water so that I wouldn't damage the plastic insulator.
> Next was to put a drop or 2 of epoxy (love that stuff) into the last open
> hole in the base.  
> I now had a solid state "Frankenbulb".  These just screw back into the
> holders with no further modifications.  Cost was around $4.  
> 
> Last thing to do is replace R1 and R2 on the power supply board to get the
> proper milliamps through the LEDs.  I found that they will light up at 2
> mills, and are very bright at the recommended 20 mills.  Way to bright for
> my taste.  I calculated the needed resistors for 4 mills and used 2 1500 ohm
> 1/2 watt resistors.  You can adjust these to what ever brilliance you want.
> The White LEDS are rated for 20 mills.  Don't forget they are in Parallel.
> Also, if you don't like the bright white color, a bit of iodine on the LED
> gives a sort of orange glow to the light.  So far mine have been on for 6
> days and no problems.
> I will do a proper write up and take a couple of pictures.  Have to email
> Nolan and see if he will put it with his "Frankenbulb" procedure.   
> A few things to keep in mind:
> 
> 1 Identify the pos and neg leads on the led and mark them.
> 
> 2 Go slow and be sure and look at Nolan's website for instructions on how to
> take the Grimes lamps apart.
> 
> 3 Test as you go.  I checked the assy. after each step to make sure I hadn't
> gotten a lead reversed, etc.
> 
> 4 Check your R-1051 power rails to these bulbs.  Mine were brass sleeve pos
> and lamp base neg, but yours may be different.
> 
> 5 Both of my Grimes lamps were made of Tin plated Brass (both the base and
> sleeve), made soldering easy.  I am not sure if all of them are that way.
> Perhaps Nolan could shed some light on this as he has done more of these
> than I have.
> 
> John  WD5ENU/A45XV  
> 
> 
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