[Lowfer] Loading Coil Former ?

[WE0H]

You could always dip the wood in bees wax if you have a big barrel of the
stuff. Paraffin and bees wax mixed together would be good and durable as
well as soaking into the wood. My old wooden stick that I used for stirring
the barrel of wax never rotted in many years of dipping traps in the stuff.
I used to build a fire under the barrel, which was hung on a chain between
two trees in the woods. Now the GF wants me to go crawl through the woods to
retrieve the barrel of wax for her candle projects. Go figure.

Mike>WE0H


-----Original Message-----
From: lowfer-admin@mailman.qth.net [mailto:lowfer-admin@mailman.qth.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Barick
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 10:04 AM
To: lowfer@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Lowfer] Loading Coil Former?

>>> w1tag@charter.net 10/23/03 08:35AM >>>

>Just a further reflection on your original question about the coil
> form.

>I think that Bill is correct in saying that you should avoid steel
> or iron in the immediate vicinity of the coil.
...
> the only metals close to the coils are paramagnetic, i.e., copper,
> brass and aluminum.

>So if you want the **best** performance, you should follow
> Bill's advice and lose the steel.
--------------------------------------------------

Fine John, others. Yeah, no question about the iron issue, just thought
there might be some safe distance uncompromising to the coil. The drum
is very rigid with the rings. We'll stuff that in the trash. I note
LEE's word in the wooden X former. Agree it's a candidate esp. if the X
is expanded to a few more frame points to better approximate a circle.
Only problem is the interior is taken up with former material, leaving
no room for the vari coil for tuning. That leaves either a large poly
bucket or a PVC spoked former, the later which may be wound basket
weaved if odd in number. This is what a few currently use. With such
designs, the interior is open and allows for the smaller tuning coil on
an axle projecting outside the main coil for rotation.

On having wood braced coils out in the weather, yes, the wood must be
moisture proofed. First by a sealant, possibly even a top coat of latex
paint. next by some weather shield, a covering, a "roof." I and someone
else used plastic bag-like covers tied down for winds. These get beat-up
in the wx and need replacing (heh, they call em trash bags). Mitch, for
one, has taken it all the way and built an "out house" to hold a coil
and metering, I believe. The way to go IMO.

On soldering CU pipe, I'll go with that water based "non acid" <g>
stuff. I'll be using clean material so will save the acid flux for
later.

Thanks all for the tips/concerns.

Peter

PS Listening last night found NC and GA on 13.555 up to 8:30P. Next set
up on 185 and nothing seen on Argo from 9-11P nor this morning at 7. Was
using the one-turn 10-foot square loop w/ Burhans amp, both outside.
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