[Kenwood] Amplifier Keying from various transceivers

[Roger (K8RI)]

On 2/10/2013 2:46 PM, rbethman wrote:
> On 2/10/2013 2:26 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Looking at current state of Amateur radio, not even sure that "some"
>>> can even read the schematic.  It isn't any requirement of current
>>> licensing.  Therefore, asking questions is how one can get information.
>> I remember when old curmudgeons would complain  about "appliance
>> operators" who bought all of their ham gear ready made.

I built a lot of equipment in days gone by, buy now days I'm pretty much 
one of those appliance operators.  OTOH, operating many of today's to en 
rigs is more complicated than buildin many of those 40 and 50 years ago.

  One of the
>> arguments on the side of buying ready built gear was that single
>> sideband gear is much more complicated to build, and required more
>> sophisticated test equipment to get it operating properly. I thought
>> that was a reasonable argument, and I have never built anything much
>> more complicated than my two tube novice transmitter. (at least not
>> for my ham shack) I guess now amateur radio has devolved even further
>> to the point where hams don't even care to try to figure out how their
>> commercially manufactured rigs work by looking at the schematic or
>> block diagram, or ever taking the covers off. People buy ready made
>> wire dipoles, instead of buying a spool of wire and some insulators.
>> And I guess I have become one of the old curmudgeons who complain
>> about it.

My first rig was a 6AG7 driving a pair of 6L6s built on the corner of a 
big steel TV chassis...and it had a 12AT7  TR switch over in the other 
corner so I actually ran QSK as a novice.
Big, Ugly, Heavy, lots of sharp corners, but it worked.

First amp was a single 6C21. Worked great, or so I thought.  The IM 
products were probably terrible.

Next came a pair of 813s with the B&W 850A Pi net.
>>
>> DE N6KB
> I guess I too have become one of the old curmudgeons!  I drag out
> measuring tapes and use '80s roll of Copperweld to make antennas.  I
> maintain my BC-610 and T-213 TXs, plus  the SP-600 and R-390A. (Torn
> apart Blue-Striper. Very slowly being restored.)

It was just a couple years ago I sold off a stack of SX101s, HT32s, and 
even an SX100.  I'd been restoring Hallicrafters, but my age and the 
weigh of the equipment just got to be too much.  Now I am that true 
appliance operator.  I'd not even try to repair one of these new 
megabuck transceivers.  No longer have the eye sight or steady hands for 
that kind of work.

OTOH I'd kinda like to have the old S-line back.
Rebuild a 30S1 to use a 4CX1500B and replace the tank circuit to handle 
today's power limit.

Course, it'd be kinda nice to have a TS990S there too.
Unfortunately I only have one hand that works at present, so until it 
improves, I'm probably not going to be doing much building or modifying. 
  Just bringing in my main rig from the shop and making the cables to 
hook it into the station was a major project.  Ever try to put PL-259s 
on coax using only one hand?

OTOH I still do quite a bit of programming.  After all, I only graduated 
from the University 23  years ago.  OK so I'm a slow learner and was 50 
when I earned my degree.

73

Roger (K8RI)


>
> First rig was Heathkit SB-102, SP-600, w/HP-23(x) power supply. Traded a
> Tram D-201 for an FL-2100B.  First amp owned.  That went in trade for
> the TS-900, and the need for the HB 813s.
>
> I find that block diagrams and schematics won't necessarily indicate
> ability to handle specific voltages.  I'd be MUCH happier having a
> Kenwood Master Parts List.  I found one for Heathkit.
>
> Looking up relay P/N in list would indicate information as to what
> voltages for relay, and perhaps if lucky, what the contacts would handle.
>
> However, Clif Holland, KA5IPF, would be the *BEST* source of information.
>
> Bob - N0DGN (KA4PBD)  Using toobs since licensed!
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