[Kenwood] TS-820 bandswitch coupler replacement?
Tom McDermott
tom.mcdermott4 at verizon.net
Mon Jun 7 20:00:04 EDT 2004
Managed to get a tywrap around the coupler, and got it good and tight. Not
enough tension to grip the shaft, unfortunately, and a real bear to get back
out. The set screws are larger than 0.050" but smaller than 0.0625" so they
must be metric. Unfortunately the nylon coupler is split at both set screws,
so there's nothing for them to bear against.
It's not obvious how to get the old coupler out. The service manual does not
list the part number, nor show any drawings of how the shaft is aligned,
indexed, or removed. I assume the front panel has to come off, then the
secondary shaft bearing has to be removed and the shaft slid out through the
front. Even if the shaft is completely pulled out, it still does not look
like there would be enough room to get old coupler off.
Since it's not shown in the service manual, is this part even considered
servicable?
-- Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Clif Holland [mailto:clif at avvid.com]
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 7:20 AM
To: Tom McDermott
Subject: Re: [Kenwood] TS-820 bandswitch coupler replacement?
It's not easy.
Clif Holland, KA5IPF
AVVid
Authorized Kenwood and Icom Service Center
816 W Shady Grove Rd
Irving, TX 75060
www.avvid.com
1-800-214-5779
972-870-0630 (Local)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom McDermott" <tom.mcdermott4 at verizon.net>
To: <kenwood at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 12:21 PM
Subject: [Kenwood] TS-820 bandswitch coupler replacement?
The white plastic bandswitch coupler in my TS-820S has broken at one end
(cracked so that is cannot grip one of the shafts tightly). It is inside the
finals cage, and connects the end of the bandswitch rod to the final tank
switch. This renders the radio inoperative.
It appears that the coupler was the first part used in the radio assembly,
and the entire readio is then constructed around that coupler! With the
finals removed and cage open, it's possible to touch it with a small
screwdriver, but barely. It's probably a lost cause to replace it, so repair
efforts might aim towards a compression-band to compress the coupler end. I
tried a small stainless-steel hose clamp, but the screw protrusion on the
clamp is too tall, and does not fit in the space around the coupler.
Has anyone sucessfully repaired one of these? The service manual doesn't
give any help here.
-- Tom, N5EG
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