[K3PZN-List] Generator Update

Mon Jul 26 18:28:28 EDT 2004

Good Afternoon All,

	Rob did a FANTASTIC JOB. THE GENERATOR AND TRAILER LOOK LIKE
NEW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway, Thanks Rob for all of your hard work. I picked up both fire
extinguishers from the refill center today. They were put in the front of
the trailer under the tarp. We will need to secure them before the trailer
is moved.

SeeYa,
Doug N5LBJ 

-----Original Message-----
From: k3pzn-list-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:k3pzn-list-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Heath, Rob
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 10:58
To: Carroll County Amateur Radio Club
Subject: [K3PZN-List] Generator Update

I took the generator back up to the FTC last night.  It has been cleaned up
and tuned up and looks and runs better.  Below are a couple notes on its
operation followed by a list of the tasks that were required to get it back
to health.

- Frequency Adjustments:  The frequency meter on the generator appears to be
accurate and agrees with my digital meter. The frequency put out by the
generator is directly related to the RPM of the engine which is controlled
by the governor.  The adjustment for the governor is right next to the choke
knob.  Do !NOT! turn the screw!  While holding the screw in place (so it
doesn't turn) with a screw driver, adjust the jamb nut with a 9/16" box
wrench.

- Carburetor Adjustments:  The adjustment screw next to the air cleaner is
the fast mixture adjustment.  The screw next to it (towards the engine) is
the idle mixture adjustment.  Since the governor keeps the engine at 1,860
RPM, the idle adjustment is meaningless.  Both screws should be about 1 ½
turns out.  If it becomes necessary to adjust the carburetor, then it is
probably dirty and needs to be cleaned.  To adjust the fast mixture screw
you need to disconnect the governor linkage and manually set the RPM to
1,860 using the idle adjustment screw on the throttle.

- Choke Setting:  The engine likes the choke all the way out to start.  As
soon as it fires, the choke needs to be pushed in half way.  You need to
either be real quick at this or have some one else help.  After a couple
minutes the engine should run with the choke all the way in.

- Jerry Cans: Those things are a mess.  You can see the rust floating in the
bottom of the cans.   They should be reconditioned or replaced.  They can be
cleaned up with some rust remover, hydrochloric acid and flushed with
acetone.  It's a nasty process, but will get the metal clean and shinny.  I
think Westminster Auto carries stuff to seal them and encapsulate any
remaining rust.

Other than the cans, I think I took care of everything else that needed
tending to.  I would have done the cans too, but projects are backing up
around the house.  The following is a list of the things I can remember
doing:

- Pressure washed and cleaned everything up.

- Stripped the trailer down to bear metal.  Lots of rust especially on the
under side. I didn't want

   to use the sand blaster do to the risk of getting sand in the engine or
generator.  Had to use

   a chemical paint stripper and naval jelly.  Man what a nasty job trying
to use that stuff while

   having to climb underneath the trailer!!!  Man that stuff burns on
contact!!!

- Couldn't get all the rust off, so I coated it all with a rust converter.

- Painted with several coats of epoxy primer and several coats of paint.  

- Stained all of the wood.

-  Ripped down a 4 x 6 and persuaded it underneath the wooden platform that
the engine

   is sitting on.  That took care of the sagging. 

-  Replaced the wiring harness.  New one has a longer cord that at least
reaches the jack on

   my truck now.

-  Replaced the tarp.

-  Removed the wheel hubs and repacked the bearing with fresh grease.

-  Fixed the leaking exhaust valve.  All cylinders now get 110 - 125 psi.
This got rid of the

   slight missing in the engine.

-  Cleaned the carburetor.  The bowl was full of crud and the main jet was
really clogged up.

    I didn't think the main jet was too bad until I cleaned it and saw just
how big the holes

    should be.  They were visibly clogged.  Fixing the carb made the biggest
difference.

    The engine now starts a lot easier and runs much smoother without the
choke having to 

    stay on.  With the carb clean, the governor does a much better job of
keeping the RPMs

    steady.  It isn't surging any more.  If you manually bump the throttle,
the governor brings

    the RPM right back to where it should be.

-   Replaced the air filter.  

-   Changed the oil.

-   Replaced the spark plugs.  They didn't look too bad, but I was on a
roll.

-   Inspected to distributor and removed some slight deposits on the
contacts.  It looked 

    new inside.  I checked the settings on the points, but didn't bother
replacing them since

    they looked real good.

-   Torqued the head bolts to 30 foot pounds.  I would guess they should be
closer to 40 - 50.

     If we can find a service manual, we will torque them to spec.  The
tightest bolt I could find

     was only about 30 pounds, so I brought the rest of them up to that.  I
got a good quarter 

     turn on several of the bolts before they clicked the torque wrench set
on 20 pounds.

     We need to keep an eye on this and recheck them periodically.

-   Checked the valve clearances.  They were not real consistent, but
without the correct

    spec, I didn't want to fuss with them.  They averaged about 0.016"  +/-
0.004".

-   Painted the intake and exhaust manifolds to make them look nice.

-  Cleaned up and painted some rust spots on the gas tank.

----------------------------------------------------- BREAK
-----------------------------------------------
Hear the real story behind the FS5UQ DX-Pedition from Clint W3ARS at the
next CCARC meeting, Monday August 9, 7:30 PM, at the FTC.

Fifth Annual CCARC Tailgate-Fest Sunday August 15.
_______
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