[K3PZN-List] Generator Update

[n3sb at qis.net]

Greetings Rob;

Thanks for your herculean efforts with the generator!

73; Steve, N3SB


Quoting "Heath, Rob" <Rob.Heath at ssa.gov>:

> I took the generator back up to the FTC last night.  It has been cleaned up
> and tuned up and looks and runs better.  Below are a couple notes on its
> operation followed by a list of the tasks that were required to get it back
> to health.
> 
>  
> 
> - Frequency Adjustments:  The frequency meter on the generator appears to be
> accurate and agrees with my digital meter. The frequency put out by the
> generator is directly related to the RPM of the engine which is controlled
> by the governor.  The adjustment for the governor is right next to the choke
> knob.  Do !NOT! turn the screw!  While holding the screw in place (so it
> doesn't turn) with a screw driver, adjust the jamb nut with a 9/16" box
> wrench.
> 
>  
> 
> - Carburetor Adjustments:  The adjustment screw next to the air cleaner is
> the fast mixture adjustment.  The screw next to it (towards the engine) is
> the idle mixture adjustment.  Since the governor keeps the engine at 1,860
> RPM, the idle adjustment is meaningless.  Both screws should be about 1 ½
> turns out.  If it becomes necessary to adjust the carburetor, then it is
> probably dirty and needs to be cleaned.  To adjust the fast mixture screw
> you need to disconnect the governor linkage and manually set the RPM to
> 1,860 using the idle adjustment screw on the throttle.
> 
>  
> 
> - Choke Setting:  The engine likes the choke all the way out to start.  As
> soon as it fires, the choke needs to be pushed in half way.  You need to
> either be real quick at this or have some one else help.  After a couple
> minutes the engine should run with the choke all the way in.
> 
>  
> 
> - Jerry Cans: Those things are a mess.  You can see the rust floating in the
> bottom of the cans.   They should be reconditioned or replaced.  They can be
> cleaned up with some rust remover, hydrochloric acid and flushed with
> acetone.  It's a nasty process, but will get the metal clean and shinny.  I
> think Westminster Auto carries stuff to seal them and encapsulate any
> remaining rust.
> 
>  
> 
> Other than the cans, I think I took care of everything else that needed
> tending to.  I would have done the cans too, but projects are backing up
> around the house.  The following is a list of the things I can remember
> doing:
> 
>  
> 
> - Pressure washed and cleaned everything up.
> 
> - Stripped the trailer down to bear metal.  Lots of rust especially on the
> under side. I didn't want
> 
>    to use the sand blaster do to the risk of getting sand in the engine or
> generator.  Had to use
> 
>    a chemical paint stripper and naval jelly.  Man what a nasty job trying
> to use that stuff while
> 
>    having to climb underneath the trailer!!!  Man that stuff burns on
> contact!!!
> 
> - Couldn't get all the rust off, so I coated it all with a rust converter.
> 
> - Painted with several coats of epoxy primer and several coats of paint.  
> 
> - Stained all of the wood.
> 
> -  Ripped down a 4 x 6 and persuaded it underneath the wooden platform that
> the engine
> 
>    is sitting on.  That took care of the sagging. 
> 
> -  Replaced the wiring harness.  New one has a longer cord that at least
> reaches the jack on
> 
>    my truck now.
> 
> -  Replaced the tarp.
> 
> -  Removed the wheel hubs and repacked the bearing with fresh grease.
> 
> -  Fixed the leaking exhaust valve.  All cylinders now get 110 - 125 psi.
> This got rid of the
> 
>    slight missing in the engine.
> 
> -  Cleaned the carburetor.  The bowl was full of crud and the main jet was
> really clogged up.
> 
>     I didn't think the main jet was too bad until I cleaned it and saw just
> how big the holes
> 
>     should be.  They were visibly clogged.  Fixing the carb made the biggest
> difference.
> 
>     The engine now starts a lot easier and runs much smoother without the
> choke having to 
> 
>     stay on.  With the carb clean, the governor does a much better job of
> keeping the RPMs
> 
>     steady.  It isn't surging any more.  If you manually bump the throttle,
> the governor brings
> 
>     the RPM right back to where it should be.
> 
> -   Replaced the air filter.  
> 
> -   Changed the oil.
> 
> -   Replaced the spark plugs.  They didn't look too bad, but I was on a
> roll.
> 
> -   Inspected to distributor and removed some slight deposits on the
> contacts.  It looked 
> 
>     new inside.  I checked the settings on the points, but didn't bother
> replacing them since
> 
>     they looked real good.
> 
> -   Torqued the head bolts to 30 foot pounds.  I would guess they should be
> closer to 40 - 50.
> 
>      If we can find a service manual, we will torque them to spec.  The
> tightest bolt I could find
> 
>      was only about 30 pounds, so I brought the rest of them up to that.  I
> got a good quarter 
> 
>      turn on several of the bolts before they clicked the torque wrench set
> on 20 pounds.
> 
>      We need to keep an eye on this and recheck them periodically.
> 
> -   Checked the valve clearances.  They were not real consistent, but
> without the correct
> 
>     spec, I didn't want to fuss with them.  They averaged about 0.016"  +/-
> 0.004".
> 
> -   Painted the intake and exhaust manifolds to make them look nice.
> 
> -  Cleaned up and painted some rust spots on the gas tank.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------- BREAK
> -----------------------------------------------
> Hear the real story behind the FS5UQ DX-Pedition from Clint W3ARS at the next
> CCARC meeting, Monday August 9, 7:30 PM, at the FTC.
> 
> Fifth Annual CCARC Tailgate-Fest Sunday August 15.
> _______
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