[Johnson] Will be restoring a Johnson Ranger

Mon Feb 14 08:57:59 EST 2022

So far there is one item not mentioned in the comments. The Ranger was introduced in 1954 and does not have grid block keying. Some refer to this model as a "Ranger". I have one it was built as a kit and has 160 thru 10-11 meters. From other accounts grid block keying was added in 1955. Check your ARRL handbooks! This model has the same paint scheme and bands. EF Johnson later offered grid block keying kits to modify the 1st version of Rangers. At this point do we have a Ranger and a Ranger 1????????????? Does it matter???? How does one know if the grid block keying kit was added later??? Then later EF Johnson offered the Ranger 2 (different paint scheme, 6 meters rather than 11 meters). 

Label them as you please, just know what you are working on, use the correct schematic. Have fun!

Regards,
Craig
WD8KDG

-----Original Message-----
From: johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net <johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net> On Behalf Of William Cromwell
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2022 7:00 PM
To: johnson at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Johnson] Will be restoring a Johnson Ranger

Hi,

I will support Scott's comments about the manuals from Pete. I bought some from him and they are *good*.

Pete also gave more information about the differences between the model some people call 1 and the later 2. He also directly stated what I hinted at. My Ranger is not labeled 1 and is not a 2. Apparently there is no 1. Eleven meters is not very useful in amateur radio and the Ranger would be illegal for use on the citizens band. Maybe I can modify mine for six meters ala the model 2. Maybe not worth the trouble since I have easier ways to get there. Maybe some day we will get 11 meters back. Probably noy in my lifetime.

73,

Bill  KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 2/13/22 6:56 PM, whitebear1122 at comcast.net wrote:
> Looks like others have answered your questions but I will add my 2 
> cents as well.
>
> 1.  Ranger has a maroon cabinet with a dark grey front panel upper 
> half color and maroon lower half color. Ranger II has a medium to 
> light grey cabinet and front panel.  Ranger knobs have white pegs on 
> the front of the knob for pointers while Ranger II actually has a pointer if I recall.
>
> 2.  As a lister mentioned here, it would be a good to at least get an 
> idea of what's wrong prior to recapping.
>
> 3.  You might consider test the power supply first. Are you power 
> supply voltages there?
>
> 4.  Yeah you need that plug in the connector on the rear.  One time I 
> grabbed a Ranger II off the shelf after it sat for a while, plugged it 
> in, didn't work, and it took a few minutes before I remembered to 
> check for the plug.  It was gone..
>
> 5.  A common failure of the Ranger and Ranger II is R13 which is a 18K 
> 2 watt (I think) resistor in the VFO voltage regulator tube that often 
> burns up because it is power underrated.
>
> 6.  You already know about the old electrolytic caps.  My personal 
> opinion is that they are either bad or going bad....
>
> 7.  You need a good manual.  I see ManualMan has commented on here.  
> His manuals are top notch.  I bought a Ranger II manual back then, and 
> more recently a Heathkit HW-12 Assembly Manual and they are really well made.
>
> 8.  The variac power up is good.  If no fuses blew, I'd go back in and 
> check the power supply voltages.  Then check the VFO to see if it's working.  Does
> the "ZERO" function work?   Hopefully you have a tube test and have checked
> all the tubes, especially the VFO 6UA8 (I think) and two voltage 
> regulator tubes.
>
> 9.  I may not be remembering correctly but I don't think there are 
> chassis cans in the Ranger.  I recapped my Ranger last year with the 
> KE9PQ set on eBay and they are all under chassis caps, again if I recall correctly.
>
> 10. I think there are very few differences between the two, it's 
> mainly the cabinet colors, knobs, and meter.  The Ranger II uses 7027 
> modulator tubes vs the Ranger 6L6.  My Ranger now uses 7027's, 
> required some rewiring, because the 6L6's were dead and only had a set of 7027's in the junk box.
> About 6 months later I found a set of 6L6's in the junk box..... too 
> late, it's got 7027's now.
>
> Good luck.  73 Scott WA9WFA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net 
> <johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net> On Behalf Of 
> donhellen at roadrunner.com
> Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2022 11:56 AM
> To: johnson at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Johnson] Will be restoring a Johnson Ranger
>
> First, I don't know how to tell if this is a Ranger 2 or earlier version.
> That might make some difference in where the common failure modes can 
> be found, but the caps questions should apply to all older radios, I think.
>
> What I would like to know is where to begin troubleshooting if after I 
> re-cap the electrolytics and wax dipped caps, it still doesn't work?
>
> I have the plug for the back (somewhere) but if I can't find it, I can 
> make a new one out of a tube plug, I believe.
>
> I guess I'm just asking where the common failure modes are in these 
> transmitters so I can have a place to start.
>
> I did power it up with a variac even though I wouldn't do that now 
> with what I know, but nothing arced or burned or exploded (that's good).
>
> If I want to "refill" the metal cap cans with new caps instead of 
> going the Hayseed Hamfest replacement kit route, where is the best 
> place to buy the replacement caps (both electrolytic and comparable 
> caps to replace the waxed
> ones) from? What type are the best replacements for the paper/waxed caps?
>
> Thanks!!!
>
>
>
> Donald KX8K
>
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