[Johnson] Will be restoring a Johnson Ranger

[manualman at juno.com]

There was a Johnson Viking Ranger and a Johnson Viking Ranger II. The was
no Ranger dubbed by Johnson as "Ranger I" or "Ranger 1" no matter what
you read.
To tell them apart besides different paint color schemes: the Johnson
Ranger covers 160 through 10-11 meters. The Johnson Ranger II covers 160
through 6 meters with no position for 11 meters.

The "accessory" jack on the back of the chassis is a female 9 pin.  A
mating 9 pin plug with defined jumpers installed needs to be plugged in
for proper operation.

Did the transmitter work before you started changing out all the
capacitors? If it didn't, you should have determined what the problem
was. 
Now, with you replacing there capacitors, you can't tell if you made the
problem with the install or the problem was from the earlier time and
changing the caps didn't solve it. 
Personally, I never do a complete capacitor install because in most cases
it isn't necessary and you run the risk inducing a new problem (solder
short, wrong connection, cap installed incorrectly, etc.).

Never spray the phenolic switch wafers with Deoxit. Sparingly wipe and
clean each contact with Deoxit. Phenolic will absorb the chemical since
it's paper based and actually can become conductive or at least add
resistances where none should be.

Johnson issued three schematics with changes through the life cycle of
the first Ranger.

Pete, wa2cwa
www.manualman.com


On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 12:56:07 -0500 donhellen at roadrunner.com writes:
> First, I don't know how to tell if this is a Ranger 2 or earlier 
> version. That
> might make some difference in where the common failure modes can be 
> found, but
> the caps questions should apply to all older radios, I think. 
> 
> What I would like to know is where to begin troubleshooting if after 
> I re-cap
> the electrolytics and wax dipped caps, it still doesn't work?
> 
> I have the plug for the back (somewhere) but if I can't find it, I 
> can make a
> new one out of a tube plug, I believe. 
> 
> I guess I'm just asking where the common failure modes are in these 
> transmitters
> so I can have a place to start. 
> 
> I did power it up with a variac even though I wouldn't do that now 
> with what I
> know, but nothing arced or burned or exploded (that's good). 
> 
> If I want to "refill" the metal cap cans with new caps instead of 
> going the
> Hayseed Hamfest replacement kit route, where is the best place to 
> buy the
> replacement caps (both electrolytic and comparable caps to replace 
> the waxed
> ones) from? What type are the best replacements for the paper/waxed 
> caps?
> 
> Thanks!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Donald KX8K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Some ham radio groups you may be interested in:
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