[Johnson] [Bulk] Re: Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant

Thu Jan 19 23:30:03 EST 2012

On 1/19/2012 3:43 PM, Dave Harmon wrote:
> Congrats..but that is not the experience of virtually everyone.
>
>
>
> Dave Harmon
>
> K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net
>
> Sperry, Ok.
>
>
>
> From: Kenneth Grimm [mailto:grimm at sbc.edu]
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 3:07 PM
> To: Dave Harmon
> Cc: Glen Zook; Jerry K; johnson at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Bulk] Re: [Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant
>
>
>
> Before this becomes engraved in stone, let me say that I located the
> resistor outside of the box as I was refurbing my Ranger I.  The VFO remains
> as stable as it ever was....and (with some difficulty and with the help of
> an SB-10 adapter) it was good enough for my entrance into the world of "slop
> bucket."
>
> 73,
>
> Ken - K4XL
>
> On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 3:29 PM, Dave Harmon<k6xyz at sbcglobal.net>  wrote:
>
> +1 on THAT!
> Relocating that resistor outside the VFO box should not be considered.
>
> Dave Harmon
> K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net
> Sperry, Ok.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Glen Zook
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 12:01 PM
> To: Jerry K; johnson at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant
>
> There have been a number of experiments concerning the placement of this
> resistor.  Most have found that putting it outside of the VFO compartment
> actually affects the stability of the VFO in a negative manner.  The VFO
> temperature compensating capacitors were chosen to include the effect of the
> heating caused by the 18K ohm resistor.  When the resistor is put outside of
> the compartment it takes longer, in some situations never, for the
> temperature to reach the conditions at which the compensation capacitors
> were calibrated.
>
> Of course, the choice of where to locate this resistor can only be made by
> the person doing the modification.  However, the previous experience of
> others should be considered.
>
> Glen, K9STH
>
>
> Website:  http://k9sth.com
>
>
> ________________________________
>   From: Jerry K<w5kp at hughes.net>
> To: johnson at mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 11:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant
>
> While you're in there, don't forget to replace the famous 18K "Chernobyl"
> dropping resistor with a 5 or 10 watt power resistor mounted OUTSIDE the VFO
> box. Mouser sells nice compact power resistors for replacements.
>
> Stu is right about the front panel, so unless you just HAVE to pull the
> front panel for other reasons, on most of the half dozen or so I've
> overhauled I've been able to get away with just removing the side plate--a
> little tougher access and requires some extra finger gymnastics during
> component replacements, but not all that bad, and far less dangerous to the
> one irreplaceable part on the Ranger--the ultra-fragile and brittle "flex"
> (ha!) insulated tuning shaft coupler behind the front dial. Also, mount a
> couple of fuses inside the rear wall of the chassis (Radio Shack sells a
> little plastic 3AG dual-fuse mount that fits
> nicely) and replace that Rube Goldberg fused power plug and cord with a
> standard three-wire grounded plug and cord. Easy to do while you have the
> little beast upside down on the bench during recapping.
>
> I believe the little Ranger is the best small boatanchor ever built...
> Have fun!
> 73 Jerry W5KP
>
>
> On 1/19/2012 8:42 AM, Jim wrote:
>> I second the use of AD5X's very useful documents.
>> While you have the VFO exposed, replace the mica capacitors and check
>> the resistors.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>> Suggestion:
>>>
>>> Don't skip getting the .pdf on front panel removal, read it a few
>>> times, and then be VERY careful not to put any side pressure on the
>>> flex coupling during the r&   r process.  It sooooo easy to destroy
>>> the phenolic wafer in that coupling, as it has been severely
>>> cooked/dried out over the last 45 years and will now be quite
>>> brittle.
>>>
>>> Finding a suitable replacement is a chore.  I even tried to
>>> repair/rebuild one from one of my Rangers, but  the material I used
>>> wasn't really thin enough, so it wasn't really a 'flex' coupling any
>>> more when I finished.  I was a lot more careful with the Pacemaker
>>> and the Valiant and managed to keep the couplings intact..
>>>
>>> 73 de Stu W7FE
>>> Henderson, NV
>>>
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>
Hi,

I have replaced at least 10 of the dreaded VFO resistors. I have never 
put one outside the box but I have replaced all of them with a 5 watt 
resistor. No problems then with heat and the replacement is a snap. I 
suspect that drift is caused by other things including loose grounds, 
missing screws and nuts etc. Most guys don't put the nuts back on the 
spade lugs that fasten the port side VFO cover to the chassis and that 
can cause problems although on AM especially on the lower bands it won't 
be noticeable. On CW it may.

My opinion only of course!

73,

Ed, KØBKA