[Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant

Thu Jan 19 17:10:29 EST 2012

You know, QSL.NET REALLY needs to figure a way for a "LIKE" button here!!!

My results with the resistor removed were the same... e.g. great.

Ed Tanton

website: http://www.n4xy.com 

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-----Original Message-----
From: johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bry Carling
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 5:00 PM
To: Kenneth Grimm; Dave Harmon
Cc: johnson at mailman.qth.net; Glen Zook
Subject: Re: [Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant

Some Zook-isms do hold up though.
--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Kenneth Grimm <grimm at sbc.edu> wrote:

Before this becomes engraved in stone, let me say that I located the
resistor outside of the box as I was refurbing my Ranger I. The VFO remains
as stable as it ever was....and (with some difficulty and with the help of
an SB-10 adapter) it was good enough for my entrance into the world of "slop
bucket."

73,

Ken - K4XL

On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 3:29 PM, Dave Harmon <k6xyz at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> +1 on THAT!
> Relocating that resistor outside the VFO box should not be considered.
>
> Dave Harmon
> K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net
> Sperry, Ok.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Glen Zook
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 12:01 PM
> To: Jerry K; johnson at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant
>
> There have been a number of experiments concerning the placement of 
> this resistor. Most have found that putting it outside of the VFO 
> compartment actually affects the stability of the VFO in a negative 
> manner. The VFO temperature compensating capacitors were chosen to 
> include the effect of the heating caused by the 18K ohm resistor. When 
> the resistor is put outside of the compartment it takes longer, in 
> some situations never, for the temperature to reach the conditions at 
> which the compensation capacitors were calibrated.
>
> Of course, the choice of where to locate this resistor can only be 
> made by the person doing the modification. However, the previous 
> experience of others should be considered.
>
> Glen, K9STH
>
>
> Website: http://k9sth.com
>
>
>_____________________________________________

> From: Jerry K <w5kp at hughes.net>
> To: johnson at mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 11:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant
>
> While you're in there, don't forget to replace the famous 18K "Chernobyl"
> dropping resistor with a 5 or 10 watt power resistor mounted OUTSIDE 
> the VFO box. Mouser sells nice compact power resistors for 
> replacements.
>
> Stu is right about the front panel, so unless you just HAVE to pull 
> the front panel for other reasons, on most of the half dozen or so 
> I've overhauled I've been able to get away with just removing the side 
> plate--a little tougher access and requires some extra finger 
> gymnastics during component replacements, but not all that bad, and 
> far less dangerous to the one irreplaceable part on the Ranger--the
ultra-fragile and brittle "flex"
> (ha!) insulated tuning shaft coupler behind the front dial. Also, 
> mount a couple of fuses inside the rear wall of the chassis (Radio 
> Shack sells a little plastic 3AG dual-fuse mount that fits
> nicely) and replace that Rube Goldberg fused power plug and cord with 
> a standard three-wire grounded plug and cord. Easy to do while you 
> have the little beast upside down on the bench during recapping.
>
> I believe the little Ranger is the best small boatanchor ever built...
> Have fun!
> 73 Jerry W5KP
>
>
> On 1/19/2012 8:42 AM, Jim wrote:
> > I second the use of AD5X's very useful documents.
> > While you have the VFO exposed, replace the mica capacitors and 
> > check the resistors.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >> Suggestion:
> >>
> >> Don't skip getting the .pdf on front panel removal, read it a few 
> >> times, and then be VERY careful not to put any side pressure on the 
> >> flex coupling during the r& r process. It sooooo easy to destroy 
> >> the phenolic wafer in that coupling, as it has been severely 
> >> cooked/dried out over the last 45 years and will now be quite 
> >> brittle.
> >>
> >> Finding a suitable replacement is a chore. I even tried to 
> >> repair/rebuild one from one of my Rangers, but the material I used 
> >> wasn't really thin enough, so it wasn't really a 'flex' coupling 
> >> any more when I finished. I was a lot more careful with the 
> >> Pacemaker and the Valiant and managed to keep the couplings intact..
> >>
> >> 73 de Stu W7FE
> >> Henderson, NV
> >>
>
>_____________________________________________

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--
Ken - K4XL
BoatAnchor Manual Archive
BAMA - http://bama.edebris.com
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