[Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant

[Kenneth Grimm]

Before this becomes engraved in stone, let me say that I located the
resistor outside of the box as I was refurbing my Ranger I.  The VFO
remains as stable as it ever was....and (with some difficulty and with the
help of an SB-10 adapter) it was good enough for my entrance into the world
of "slop bucket."

73,

Ken - K4XL

On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 3:29 PM, Dave Harmon <k6xyz at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> +1 on THAT!
> Relocating that resistor outside the VFO box should not be considered.
>
> Dave Harmon
> K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net
> Sperry, Ok.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:johnson-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Glen Zook
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 12:01 PM
> To: Jerry K; johnson at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant
>
> There have been a number of experiments concerning the placement of this
> resistor.  Most have found that putting it outside of the VFO compartment
> actually affects the stability of the VFO in a negative manner.  The VFO
> temperature compensating capacitors were chosen to include the effect of
> the
> heating caused by the 18K ohm resistor.  When the resistor is put outside
> of
> the compartment it takes longer, in some situations never, for the
> temperature to reach the conditions at which the compensation capacitors
> were calibrated.
>
> Of course, the choice of where to locate this resistor can only be made by
> the person doing the modification.  However, the previous experience of
> others should be considered.
>
> Glen, K9STH
>
>
> Website:  http://k9sth.com
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From: Jerry K <w5kp at hughes.net>
> To: johnson at mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 11:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [Johnson] Kit wiring instructions for Johnson Valiant
>
> While you're in there, don't forget to replace the famous 18K "Chernobyl"
> dropping resistor with a 5 or 10 watt power resistor mounted OUTSIDE the
> VFO
> box. Mouser sells nice compact power resistors for replacements.
>
> Stu is right about the front panel, so unless you just HAVE to pull the
> front panel for other reasons, on most of the half dozen or so I've
> overhauled I've been able to get away with just removing the side plate--a
> little tougher access and requires some extra finger gymnastics during
> component replacements, but not all that bad, and far less dangerous to the
> one irreplaceable part on the Ranger--the ultra-fragile and brittle "flex"
> (ha!) insulated tuning shaft coupler behind the front dial. Also, mount a
> couple of fuses inside the rear wall of the chassis (Radio Shack sells a
> little plastic 3AG dual-fuse mount that fits
> nicely) and replace that Rube Goldberg fused power plug and cord with a
> standard three-wire grounded plug and cord. Easy to do while you have the
> little beast upside down on the bench during recapping.
>
> I believe the little Ranger is the best small boatanchor ever built...
> Have fun!
> 73 Jerry W5KP
>
>
> On 1/19/2012 8:42 AM, Jim wrote:
> > I second the use of AD5X's very useful documents.
> > While you have the VFO exposed, replace the mica capacitors and check
> > the resistors.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >> Suggestion:
> >>
> >> Don't skip getting the .pdf on front panel removal, read it a few
> >> times, and then be VERY careful not to put any side pressure on the
> >> flex coupling during the r&  r process.  It sooooo easy to destroy
> >> the phenolic wafer in that coupling, as it has been severely
> >> cooked/dried out over the last 45 years and will now be quite
> >> brittle.
> >>
> >> Finding a suitable replacement is a chore.  I even tried to
> >> repair/rebuild one from one of my Rangers, but  the material I used
> >> wasn't really thin enough, so it wasn't really a 'flex' coupling any
> >> more when I finished.  I was a lot more careful with the Pacemaker
> >> and the Valiant and managed to keep the couplings intact..
> >>
> >> 73 de Stu W7FE
> >> Henderson, NV
> >>
>
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-- 
Ken - K4XL
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