[Johnson] Ranger fuse -- where?

[C E]

Jon:
Did you change out your l.v. electrolytic cap? I used
to have hum on my signal until I used a fresh 100uF
unit. After that, my sig was compared to near
broadcast quality (unsolicited while I was back in
W6-land). FWIW.
Cal, N6KYR/8

--- K6JEK <k6jek at comcast.net> wrote:

> Where do you put the fuse in a Ranger?   That's the
> question I've asked 
> at the end of the periodic discussions on this forum
> about the dangers 
> of the two-fuse plugs on Rangers.   I've been
> convinced for a long time 
> that safety trumps authenticity and have intended to
> replace the 
> dangerous two wire, two fuse AC mains connection
> with a three wire 
> cord.   But where to put the fuse if not in the
> plug?   No one ever 
> answered that for me.
> 
> Procrastination was finally ended when working on a
> stubborn hum on the 
> RF problem (not from the modulator!) I noticed in my
> repeated plugging 
> in and unplugging that the cord was coming out of
> the plug.   It was 
> time to replace the cord. The fuse question could
> wait no longer.
> 
> Here's the answer, at least my answer.  Put the fuse
> holder where the 
> AC cord comes in.  Move the cord next to the relay
> socket on cabinet 
> side.   Move the solder lugs that were there over to
> the other side 
> under the nuts holding the terminal strip on that
> side.
> 
> The hole formerly for the AC cord now for the fuse
> holder must be 
> slightly enlarged to 1/2" and a new hole must be
> drilled for the cord.  
> I put this hole level with the screw for the relay
> socket midway 
> between the socket and the edge of the cabinet
> cutout.  I'd penciled 
> the location of the cutout on the chassis when the
> Ranger was still in 
> the cabinet.    I used a circular Heyco strain
> relief that required a 
> smaller hole that the more familiar clamping Heyco. 
>    I was careful 
> to miss the relay socket.   If I were doing it
> again, I'd move the hole 
> a little farther away from the relay socket to miss
> that socket by a 
> little bit more.
> 
> The solder lugs are removed from the nearby hole and
> moved across the 
> way to the terminal strip that hosts the RF chokes
> leading to the AUX 
> socket.   The  bypass caps were clipped out and
> replaced with AC rated 
> X1/Y2 caps, Vishay/Roederstein WYO series ceramic 
> disc suppression 
> caps.
> 
> It's in.  It's neat.   I did drill a hole.   In this
> former basket case 
> Ranger, museum quality isn't a possibility,
> originality not an issue.   
>   I do have a nearly pristine Ranger II.   Since I
> use these things and 
> like staying alive, I plan to do exactly the same
> thing to it.
> 
> Jon, K6JEK
> 
> PS:  Changing the power cord didn't fix the original
> hum issue.   
> Shucks.
> 
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