[ICOM] Mobile DC power running question
Gary Pearce KN4AQ
kn4aq at arrl.net
Mon Jul 9 07:36:56 EDT 2007
I bit the bullet and had a local two-way radio shop run power, install 5
NMO mounts plus coax, 2 trunk lip mounts, and the coax plus control wires
for a Tarheel screwdriver. Total tab: $600. They were happy to do it, and
knew how. The local Toyota dealer wouldn't touch the job.
A friend who faced a similar power cable routing dilemma had them do just
the power for about $150 - heavy gauge, fused cables done right. (Tip: make
sure to ask for a fused negative line run to the battery - it's not
industry standard).
Runs against the grain of DIY hams, but today's cars with airbags all over
are making it much harder to do it yourself.
73,
Gary KN4AQ
At 11:06 PM 7/8/2007, you wrote:
>Hello Gents,
>
>Up until this type of vehicle, I've always had a
>relatively easy time installing power to a rig mounted
>in the trunk.
>
>I've got a Hyundai Elantra 4 dr automatic.
>
>There are no holes in the firewall that I've found,
>nor any other passages easy to put cables through.
>
>There is one wire harness pass through but it has a
>molded grommet and is way too high behind the
>instrumentation cluster, very bad spot to get to under
>the dash.
>
>Short of making my own holes or path, has anyone found
>a slick method or route to get power to the trunk for
>this king of car?
>
>I thought of just going under the car with that
>corrugated split covering but it's so low to the
>ground, I can't fit under there!
>
>They sure did a good job of isolating the engine
>compartment from the cab!
>
>Any hot ideas?
>
>Thanks much,
>Tom
>
>
>
>
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__________________________________________________________________________
Gary Pearce KN4AQ
Cary, NC
919-380-9944
kn4aq at arrl.net
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