[Heathkit] HW-12a
Ross Stenberg
k9cox at charter.net
Tue Feb 18 17:34:23 EST 2020
Bob’s advice is of course excellent. I will add a simple comment based on results I’ve had with several Heathkits of similar construction. Tighten all the screws that attach and ground the circuit boards to the chassis, after decades they become troublesome. This has solved some strange problems for me.
73 Ross K9COX
Sent from my communicator
From: Robert Nickels
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 2:38 PM
To: heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] HW-12a
On 2/18/2020 8:15 AM, LITTLE MAIL wrote:
> There's no obvious sign of a failed component
That's the problem, one common failure in radios of this vintage is
carbon comp resistors that have increased in value and yet they look
perfect. I had one in a HW-32 that caused the het oscillator/mixer not
to work for example, although you won't have that stage in a "12".
Assuming you have a DMM, you can measure the value of resistors without
unsoldering them as a first step. Disconnect the transceiver from the
power supply. Still, parallel paths will sometimes cause a reading that
is much lower that the marked value, just note these for follow-up
later. If the measured value is within the marked value, the resistor
is good. If it measures more than about 25% high, it's still close
enough to work in most circuits with no impact. Those that have changed
in value will often be as much as 5 to 10 times the marked value and
definitely need to be replaced.
The first thing to do in fixing any radio is to take the time to
understand how it works. Fortunately Heathkit provides good detailed
theory of operation, go over it stage by stage til you know what signals
should be present, then verify. I always clean tube pins as well and
visually inspect the PCB for anything that shouldn't be there. More
than one radio has been repaired by peeling off a bit of solder splash
that a previous repairman inadvertently created.
The next step is to power up and do the voltage checks against the
voltages shown in the diagram in the manual. This will verify wiring
connections and clear up any of those questionable resistor values - I
just prefer to check the resistors out of circuit first because it's so
easy to do. The last tip I can give you requires an oscilloscope or
spectrum analyzer (see next para). Remove the 6GE5 PA tubes
temporarily and connect your scope probe to the grid of one of them;
this will let you see even a low-level RF signal that may be present.
Remember that a sine wave tone injected into the mic input of an SSB
transmitter will produce a CW signal output. With the finals removed
you can keep the radio in the transmit mode as long as necessary without
worrying about damaging the tubes. You should end up with somewhere in
the range of 30-50 volts peak to peak RF at the grids. When you do,
then re-install the finals, set the bias, and touch-up the transmitter
alignment.
It's really difficult to troubleshoot a sideband transceiver without a
scope, but a $20 rtl-sdr dongle and free SDR software with a DBFS scale
makes a decent "poor-man's spectrum analyzer" once you know how to use
it and which RF signals you're looking for. DBFS readings are
relative, i.e. if you see a signal go from -50 to -40 dB, that is 10 dB
of gain. So you can use it to verify that desired frequencies are
present, that undesired frequencies are not present, and to compare the
relative amplitude of signals. Never directly connect the SDR input to
the radio! Use a few turns of wire as a sampling loop antenna and reduce
the gain to make sure any signals you are looking at are well below the
top (0 dB) of the scale to make sure the receiver is not being
saturated. You can also slide a tube shield over a tube, making sure
it is not grounded, and pick up the signal from a stage that way because
the SDR receiver is very sensitive. This inexpensive tool is better
than the lab equipment at Heathkit when these radios were designed!
73, Bob W9RAN
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