[Heathkit] Completed rebuilding the IT-12 Signal tracer, a couple glitches
Phil
ko6bb1 at gmail.com
Sat Jun 27 17:17:25 EDT 2015
Hi All,
First, when I received this unit, I fired it up with the dim-bulb-tester
just to be on the safe side. It fired up, first with a few "crackles"
and some hum. Turning the volume control up past about halfway, give or
take and it would break into oscillation. I figured that was probably
due to flaky filter caps and didn't worry about it at the time as I
figured I'd re-cap it anyway. Also, the eye tube was quite dim, could
see it ONLY if the room lights were off. I hoped that was due to low B+
or related.
Further examination showed that most of the resistors were out of
tolerance on the high side, most of the higher values ones by as much as
50%. NOT unusual for carbon resistors.
So I decided that a complete rebuild was in order, not just a basic
re-cap. So I tore it completely down to a bare chassis, gathered all
the resistors and capacitors together and started the rebuild just like
it was an unopened kit. Even the tube sockets were replaced with
ceramic ones (with tube shield for the 12AX7) (except the 1629 eye tube
socket).
The parts that were reused was the speaker, output Xformer, power
Xformer, all controls & switches and of course any hardware/binding
posts etc. ALL small electronic parts (caps, resistors,rect etc) were
replaced.
I was VERY careful to make sure that the wiring is exactly per the
manual, doing it step by step and check-marking the manual. The original
can type filter capacitor was replaced by a couple terminal strips and
discrete capacitors. The 50uF input cap was replaced by a 40uF one and
the 50uF output filter cap (after the 10K resistor) was replaced by a
100uF unit (both rated 260V). This because they're what I had on hand in
my new stock.
The "Wired-in" permanent probe cord was replaced by a 1/4" jack in the
same hole, this because I don't like "wired-in" probes and other
dangling things. The power cord was replaced by a polarized one, and a
.01uF cap placed from the neutral lead to the chassis. I made sure the
"hot lead" went to the power switch. I chose this route rather than a 3
wire cord (original was 2 wire non-polarized). NO other changes were
made to the unit.
OK, here's the "glitches" I mentioned.
1. The eye tube is still dim and will need replacement (whew, 18.00 at
Antique Electronics). Voltages on it are all correct.
2. It STILL oscillates when the volume is turned up about half way,
give or take. Doesn't sound any different in that regard than it did
when it arrived. Putting the 12AX7 tube shield on/off doesn't change it
any. It's high pitched, wife thought I was playing with crickets in
here ;-) I tried subbing a 12AT7 thinking the lower mu device might not
oscillate, but it made little/no difference.
3. Hum is now negligible until the volume is turned up moderately,
indicating any hum pick-up is 'probably' due to the close proximity of
the power Xformer to the front end circuits. The unit is rather tightly
packed and there isn't as much spacing between things as I'd do it if I
designed it (I've done a lot of home and pro audio work).
I wonder if any other list members have experience with the IT-12 signal
tracer? This is the one in the VTVM sized cabinet, I'm NOT sure if the
larger cabinet ones would have similar oscillation problems, even IF
they used the same circuit. . .
--
73 de Phil, KO6BB
http://www.qsl.net/ko6bb/ (Web Page)
PRESENT RADIOS:
Grundigs: S-350 (~2006), G6 (2011) & S450DLX (2014).
Icom: R-75 With Cascaded 250 & 125Hz CW Filters. (~2005)
Icom: IC-7200 Transceiver (~2015).
Radio Shack: DX-380 digital portable (~1990).
Zenith: Royal-7000 Transoceanic Portable (~1968).
ACCESSORIES: Homebrew LF-MF Pre-Amp, MFJ-993B HF Auto-Tuner.
Homebrew 8 Hz Audio Filter.
ANTENNAS: 88 foot Long Ladder-line fed dipole at 35 feet AGL.
Active Mini-Whip at 36 Feet AGL for LF/MW.
37 foot "Low Noise Vertical" at 11 feet AGL for LF/MW/SW.
Merced, Central California, 37, 18, 37N 120, 30, 6W CM97rh
More information about the Heathkit
mailing list