[Heathkit] Paint formulas
Glen Zook via Heathkit
heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Sun Sep 14 23:00:57 EDT 2014
Careful application of Valspar "Stone" paint can result in a textured undercoat. It takes a little practice to get just the desired texture. I have found that #11439 "Alabaster" does the best job. The paint is available at Lowe's and at some Walmarts.
For the "orange peel" texture that is on a number of cabinets, you have to let the bottom coat get almost dry and then immediately add another coat. If the first coat is dry, or is too wet, then the "orange peel" won't happen.
Glen, K9STH
Website: http://k9sth.net
On Sunday, September 14, 2014 8:57 PM, Paul Kraemer <elespe at lisco.com> wrote:
I have tried many ways to get the SW Acryllic latex to spit texture with
HVLP gun
I adjust the pressure and the paint thickness to no avail. Everything from
not thinned to too thin. Pressure from almost none to full blast. I can't
adjust the nozzle and only have the one it comes with
Bottom line if I get the spittle texture the latex is slow enough to dry
that it evens itself out.
I think I have found a better way
I apply a texture primer coat with the RustOleum filler primer and color
coat over the top of that
For wrinkle effect I use the RustOleum texture in fine or regualr finish as
a primer
My experience I can't get a decent spatter with the acryllic finish but I do
like the paint and the results
Also, FWIW, Glen's formula I have tried are "spot on" to what I wanted
Paul K0UYA
-----Original Message-----
From: Walt - WB2VSJ
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 6:57 AM
To: heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] Paint formulas
Hi Chris,
For the HVLP sprayer I did not thin it at all. The thicker the better, the
better the "spitting". :)
For the Preval I was able to look it up, (link below ). Preval says to
follow the paint MFG's instructions as to what type of thinner to use and
I believe it was just water for the latex I used. Preval has a mixture
ratio guide on page 3 of their instructions.
http://www.preval.com/sites/default/files/Preval.pdf
I know latex may not be everyone's ideal choice, but it is one way to do it.
Good luck!
Walt - WB2VSJ
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Kepus [mailto:ckepus at comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 02:48
To: 'Walt - WB2VSJ'; heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Heathkit] Paint formulas
FB, Walt, and thanks for the clarification. Yes, your paint on the IM-16
cabinet looks awesome. I also have a cheap HLVP. Was the latex you used
for the IM-16 thinned? Did you use regular tap water to thin the latex?
Now, if I can just get the sprayer to "spit" it out, also! :-) Thanks for
sharing. Chris W7JPG
-----Original Message-----
From: Heathkit [mailto:heathkit-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walt -
WB2VSJ
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2014 10:59 PM
To: heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] Paint formulas
Hi Chris,
Yes, Latex. You are right, that would not work too well with the Preval -
I forgot to mention that it was thinned out to work with the Preval. It
took a little trial and error and I had to do a few thin coats. I don't
have any photos of those results. This was used to paint over the existing
Heath paint which already had the "crinkle" in it.
In the past I have done it with a cheap HLVP sprayer (again with latex) to
do a IM-16 cabinet. I was able to reproduce the "Crinkle" fairly accurately
by sheer dumb luck. I had the settings on the sprayer set wrong and it was
literally spitting paint onto the cabinet. It turned out fantastic, at
least I think it did. I do have some photos of that and I'll email those
to you.
Walt - WB2VSJ
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Kepus [mailto:ckepus at comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 01:38
To: 'Walt - WB2VSJ'; heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Heathkit] Paint formulas
Walt, do I understand you correctly that you use the Preval kit to spray
latex? Sorry if that sounds like I didn't read your comment but I did and I
am more than a bit skeptical that something as simple as the Preval kit is
capable of putting latex through it (straight from the can) and delivering a
smooth even spray on a cabinet. Would really like to know if it truly is as
straight forward as that and would like to see some pics of the finished
work. Sure would simplify my paint work.
Thanks in advance for any additional comments, lessons learned and
techniques you've developed.
Chris
W7JPG
-----Original Message-----
From: Heathkit [mailto:heathkit-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walt -
WB2VSJ
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2014 5:39 PM
To: heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] Paint formulas
I've had good luck with Home Depot in matching the color. Take the cabinet
in and heave them scan it and the can mix up a sample jar of Latex (yeah,
sorry - latex) for you for just couple of bucks.
Then get the Preval paint sprayer kit (If you don't have an paint gun). I
like the Preval as it is made for small spray paint jobs. You could do the
whole cabinet if you wanted to.
Walt - WB2VSJ
-----Original Message-----
From: Heathkit [mailto:heathkit-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
rbethman
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2014 18:00
To: heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Heathkit] Paint formulas
>From old messages:
-------- Forwarded Message --------
Subject: [Heathkit] Paint formulas
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 14:24:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Glen Zook <gzook at yahoo.com>
To: heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Every so often I get repeat requests for the formulas of the paints that I
use on boat anchor cabinets.
Here are the formulas from Sherwin-Williams of the cabinet colors that I
have had matched to date. Note that these are for 1 quart unless otherwise
noted.
Also, all but 2 of thse I now have in acryllic (which dries MUCH harder than
normal enamel) and all are water-based except for the Johnson maroon which
also has an oil base formula. The 2 that I have not yet acquired in
acryllic are for latex enamel but acryllic is available and your local
Sherwin-Williams store (and any other paint store that has paint mixing
capabilities) can provide acryllic paint using the same color formulation.
I always prime the cabinet before painting and what I use is the "el cheapo"
primer from WalMart which costs
97 cents for a 10 ounce spray can. It is ColorPlace Gray Primer #20010.
For a medium "crinkle" I overspray the primer with Rustoleum "Stone
Creations". This comes in several colors but I have found that the gray
color seems to work best. You have to hold the can between 14 inches and 18
inches away from the surface and spray in very short "bursts" while moving
the can slightly. It akes a little bit of practice (try spraying on a piece
of
cardboard) to "get the hang of it".
A paint that generally furnishes a light wrinkle is Krylon 3370 Jet Black.
However, you need to apply heat to get it to really wrinkle correctly and
then it may not work correctly every time. Therefore, I usually use the
Stone Creations paint.
After the "crinkle" or "wrinkle" pain has dried you then need to overspray
with the correct color.
Now the paints that I am giving the formulas for require some type of spray
paint rig (unless your paint store is one of the relatively few that can
load spray cans). There are all sorts of possible solutions ranging from
simple arrays that consist of a can that may be pressurized using a bicycle
pump all the way to compressors and "real" paint guns. I use a compressor
and paint gun but for occasional use those cans that can be pressurized do
work (they are available from Harbor Freight and many paint stores).
The formulas:
Collins:
St. James Gray (used on the "A" Line equipment):
Colorant oz 32 64 128
B1 Black 2 - - -
Y3 Deep Gold - 13 - -
Acryllic: Ultra Deep Base 6403-25981
S-Line Cabinet (formula is for 1 gallon but store can reduce this for 1
quart):
Colorant oz 32 64 128
B1 Black 4 - - -
Y3 Deep Gold - 62 - -
N1 Raw Umber 2 6 - -
Acryllic: Extra White B20 W 51 6403-36442
S-Line Trim Ring:
BAC Colorant oz 32 64 128
N1 Raw Unber - 17 - -
G2 New Green - 1 - -
B1 Black - 2 1 -
Y1 Yellow - 1 - -
Acryllic: Extra White B20 W 51 6403-36434
Hallicrafters
Cabinet gray (HT-37, etc.):
BAC Colorant oz 32 64 128
B1 Black - 21 - 1
N1 Raw Umber - 21 - -
Y3 Deep Gold - 5 - 1
W1 White - 12 - -
Latex Enamel: Deep Base 6405-13974
(available in acryllic, store can use proper base)
Heath
Apache Green
Colorant oz 32 64 128
B1 Black - 32 - -
G2 New Green - 16 - -
Y1 Yellow - 12 - -
L1 Blue - 12 - -
W1 White - 8 - -
Acryllic: Ultra Deep Base 6403-25981
SB-Line Cabinet (this is one of the 5 different colors that Heath used and
is, in my opinion, the best looking of the 5):
Colorant oz 32 64 128
B1 Black - 7 1 1
L1 Blue 6 1 - -
N1 Raw Umber - 62 - -
Y3 Deep Gold - - 1 1
Acryllic: Extra White B20 W 51 6403-36434
DX Cabinet (DX-20, DX-35, DX-40, DX-100):
Colorant oz 32 64 128
B1 Black - 24 - -
N1 Raw Umber - 40 - -
R3 Magenta - 3 - -
Latex Enamel: Deep Base 6405-13974
(available in acryllic, store can use proper base)
Johnson:
Maroon (Ranger, Valiant, Pacemaker, etc.):
BAC Colorant oz 32 64 128
B1 Black - 22 - -
R3 Magenta - 6 - -
R4 New Red - 8 - -
Acryllic: Ultradeep Base 6403-25981
Oil: Ultradeep Base 6403-25775
National
Cabinet gray (i.e. NC-2-40DT):
Colorant oz 32 64 128
B1 Black - 41 1 -
R2 Maroon - - - 1
Y3 Deep Gold - 6 - -
W1 White - 18 - -
R4 New Red - - 1 1
Acryllic: Ultradeep Base 6403-25981
"Off the Shelf" or "standard formula paints for those who do not want to get
their paints specially mixed.
Collins:
KWM-1
Standard formula paint ASA 61 Gray. This is a "standard" industry formula
and should be available at just about any paint store. ASA 61 is an "exact"
color match to the KWM-1.
S-Line cabinets (not trim ring). Real close (but not a cigar) "off the
shelf" is Rustoleum 1982 Winter Gray.
RME
Cabinets from the late 1930s to the 1950s. Really close "off the shelf" is
Krylon 1608 Smoke Gray.
I do not have any other paint "matched" at the present time. The formulas
are presented for those who are wanting to repaint their equipment the
original color.
Most of the radio manufacturers did NOT prime their cabinets before
painting. I do NOT recommend painting over the original paint because this
will often cause the original paint to "flake off". You need to completely
strip the original paint (sanding where
necessary) and then prime the cabinet. Then paint it with the desired
color.
Glen, K9STH
Website: http://k9sth.com
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