[Heathkit] HW100/101 curiosity

Thu May 31 16:32:40 EDT 2012

Hi Dick,

Did you do a Goggle search "removing a broken slug" or "removing a broken
coil slug"?
There is quite a bit of discussion on this topic on the Kenwood 820S Yahoo
group forum. These threads will come up in your search result.  On K4EAA's
site, he says the broken (cracked slug) is nearly impossible to remove from
the Kenwoods without first removing the coil form itself.  Interesting
pictures in his "Repair Examples" page.  Slugs may or may not have threads.
It is mentioned by some that they were able to drill a small hole on the
circuit board under the slug (veeeerrrryyy carefully so they could put a
small diameter plastic rod through the bottom and push the broken slug to
the top as it was being rotated or wiggled.  Many cautionary remarks about
not being too aggressive with the broken slug as it may risk damage to the
coil form. Sounds like your coil form is a good candidate to remove and then
pursue core removal tricks.

There are many many more hits to this search.  I have read many broken slug
removal threads on the R-390A list.

Good luck, Chris W7JPG

-----Original Message-----
From: heathkit-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:heathkit-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick KF4NS
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 12:41 PM
To: Bwana Bob
Cc: heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] HW100/101 curiosity

Thanks Bob, I did some redressing of wiring in the finals since I had made
several repairs around the sockets. I also dressed other cables and wiring
elsewhere. I also positioned the driver neutralization wire. Then I began to
tune up on all bands again, 10M on down to 80M. All went well until I got to
80M and discovered that it would not load at all. I checked the HET OSC
voltage and it was -.2V. I stuck the alignment tool in there and it popped
up to -3.3V, Then 80M loaded fine except for the hissing in the speaker. All
other bands made no speaker noise at all.

This is where I opened the window and threatened to toss the %$&* radio out
on the lawn, the HET OSC coil for 80M and 40M was hanging loose !!! I found
that after removing that coil, one wire was broken, the 80M slug was locked
tight. I tried contact cleaner, LPS1 greaseless lube, mineral spirits,
Lacquer thinner, 100% silicone spray, then I gave up. It is cracked but
still cannot remove it. I have a spare slug but how do I get the cracked one
out? Am I correct in thinking there is no wax in these Heathkit coils? Seems
clear in there so why is the slug stuck? Are the forms threaded or does the
slug make it's own threads?

Strange thing about this, I never had a slug in this rig ever get even
slightly tight. What makes these suddenly lock  up? If I can get the bad
slug out, I will reattach the loose coil wire and glue the form back in
there, hoping to solder it back in and get 80M working again (and 40M since
they are together in the form)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bwana Bob" <wb2vuf at verizon.net>
To: "Dick KF4NS" <kf4nsradio at verizon.net>
Cc: <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] HW100/101 curiosity

| Dick:
|
| If the peak on the driver tuning is erratic, it means that the driver
| stage needs to be neutralized.  A squeal, coming from the final, not the
| speaker, is a parasitic oscillation, requiring final neutralization.  If
| the squeal comes from the speaker, spray the relay contacts with contact
| cleaner. Sometimes there is a carbon buildup on the contacts which will
| result in incomplete muting.
|
|                     73,
|
|                     Bob WB2VUF
|
| On 5/24/2012 7:15 PM, Dick KF4NS wrote:
| > Ok guys, sure sounds reasonable. Thanks to all for your input. While I
am at it, after the problems 
and
| > restoration are now complete, I notice that frequently there is a
strange squeal or screech coming 
from
| > the speaker while on the dummy load during tune-up. Everything is tied
down tight and over the past 
40+
| > years I never heard this before. It must be an oscillation of some sort
but am going to try a 
suggestion
| > in the manual regarding the driver neutralizing wire but it relates to
jumpy tuning; still could be a
| > possibility. I am sure I must have moved that wire at some point during
the repairs. The finals are 
not
| > yet neutralized but are the original ones from before the crash (6293s
added in 2003). Well, we will 
see.
| > 73, Dick KF4NS
| > St Petersburg, FL 33714 USA
| > Keep The Glow!
| >
| > ----- Original Message -----
| > From: "Bwana Bob"<wb2vuf at verizon.net>
| > To: "Dick KF4NS"<kf4nsradio at verizon.net>
| > Cc: "Heath puck list"<heath at puck.nether.net>;<heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
| > Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 10:26 PM
| > Subject: Re: [Heathkit] HW100/101 curiosity
| >
| >
| > | Dick:
| > |
| > | Well, this is my opinion:
| > |
| > | Tuning the het osc coils in receive mode  gets you in the ballpark, so
| > | the receive tuning is preliminary. The tuning for maximum transmitter
| > | output is more critical. Just tuning on receive will not maximize
| > | transmitter output.  Just tuning on transmit, one might miss the peak
| > | entirely.
| > |
| > | Even though the jumpers between the finals are short, they do have
some
| > | inductance. Heath probably wanted to keep the impedance to ground very
| > | low so as to prevent the jumper inductance from causing parasitic
| > | oscillations in the final.
| > |
| > | Bob WB2VUF
| > |
| > | On 5/23/2012 8:15 PM, Dick KF4NS wrote:
| > |>  Hi guys,
| > |>
| > |>  A couple things have always bugged me so I will ask the questions
now and see what I can 
determine.
| > |>
| > |>  In the alignment, I have always wondered why, after all the time
spent adjusting the HET. OSC. 
coils
| > to
| > |>  the spec, why do we need to start all over again when we do the
transmit alignment ??
| > |>
| > |>  Also, in the finals, pins 1, 4 and 6 are tied together between the
two tubes, so why the 
redundancy
| > with
| > |>  three .005 mfd bypass caps on each tube? Would it not be just fine
to have only one cap for both
| > tubes
| > |>  instead of six caps ?  The tube spacing is so close I see no need
for the multiple caps.
| > |>
| > |>  73, Dick KF4NS
| > |>  St Petersburg, FL 33714 USA
| > |>  Keep The Glow!
| > |>
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