[Heathkit] SB-200 Question - Seeking advice - WORKING

Joe Stefanelli j.m.stefanelli at comcast.net
Sun Apr 10 08:51:52 EDT 2011


True (regarding using synthetic oil).  Clock oil is the ultimate synthetic
lubricant (assuming no one is still distributing whale oil, which is what
clock makers used to use).  It has no distillates to evaporate and never
gums up.  That's why it's used for clocks and watches.

-Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: heathkit-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:heathkit-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Drew P.
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 2:39 AM
To: heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] SB-200 Question - Seeking advice - WORKING


Scott wrote:

[snipped]

"Many folks emailed saying the WD-40 will leave a gummy mess behind that is
going to collect grime and dust.? I had not anticipated this so this evening
I will soak down the detent mechanism in alcohol, dry it out, then appy the
next set of advice, penetrating oil. Stopped off at the Ace on the way home
from errands and picked up a bottle of penetrating oil.? After I clean the
WD-40 out of the?bushing?I'll apply it to the front shaft and let it wick
up, then apply some into the detent mechanism to get some down into the
barrel of the bushing, then finish off with lubing the detent balls with
Lubriplate.? ?Most folks said the penetrating oil would likely do a better
job of breaking the corrosion than WD-40.? Plus they said the penetrating
oil is actually 'oil' rather than petroleum distillates and other mystery
stuff."

I third the motion of PB Blaster as the penetrant of choice.  There is,
however, a problem with penetrating oil when used as a long-term lubricant:
penetrating oil tends to gum up also.  After a mechanism has been freed, it
would be best to use a lubricant less likely to gum.  Synthetic motor oil
works fairly well in that regard.

Drew



      
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