[Heathkit] SB-200 Question - Seeking advice - WORKING

[Carl]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Drew P." <drewrailleur807 at yahoo.com>
To: <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 2:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] SB-200 Question - Seeking advice - WORKING


>
> Scott wrote:
>
> [snipped]
>
> "Many folks emailed saying the WD-40 will leave a gummy mess behind that 
> is going to collect grime and dust.? I had not anticipated this so this 
> evening I will soak down the detent mechanism in alcohol, dry it out, then 
> appy the next set of advice, penetrating oil. Stopped off at the Ace on 
> the way home from errands and picked up a bottle of penetrating oil.? 
> After I clean the WD-40 out of the?bushing?I'll apply it to the front 
> shaft and let it wick up, then apply some into the detent mechanism to get 
> some down into the barrel of the bushing, then finish off with lubing the 
> detent balls with Lubriplate.? ?Most folks said the penetrating oil would 
> likely do a better job of breaking the corrosion than WD-40.? Plus they 
> said the penetrating oil is actually 'oil' rather than petroleum 
> distillates and other mystery stuff."
>
> I third the motion of PB Blaster as the penetrant of choice.  There is, 
> however, a problem with penetrating oil when used as a long-term 
> lubricant: penetrating oil tends to gum up also.  After a mechanism has 
> been freed, it would be best to use a lubricant less likely to gum. 
> Synthetic motor oil works fairly well in that regard.
>
> Drew

PB, Kroil, Sears, or whatever your choice of a penetrant is just that. After 
it does its job flush it out and apply a real lubricant. I use 3 in 1 or 
Hoppes Gun Oil in switch shafts and just a tiny drop on the detent ball. Its 
good stuff for fans also such as in the SB-220.

Brake cleaner is a good solvent but dont use it on plastic; its fine for 
removing residue on phenolic and ceramic switch wafers before you attack the 
silver tarnish.

Carl
KM1H