[Heathkit] SB-630 information 2nd request - problem discovered!
Tom Chesek
tchesek at epix.net
Wed Dec 8 20:01:47 EST 2010
The Master Parts List at that link is only a partial listing. It does not
show the 412-34. I have a CD that I bought on eBay a few years ago that is
a pdf file about 118 MB in size. It is a scan of wide computer green bar
paper with a total of 1008 pages with each page having about 65 part numbers
listed. One time my listing had different info for a part than someone else
had on a different run of the Master parts list from a different year but I
suspect most info to be accurate.
Tom K3TVC
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Macklin
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 7:54 PM
To: Tom Chesek ; jack m ; mike.mccarty at sbcglobal.net ;
heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] SB-630 information 2nd request - problem discovered!
Go here and download all the sections of the Heathkit Master parts Lists:
http://nrwilliamson.tripod.com/index-2.html
Bob Macklin
K5MYJ
Seattle, Wa.
"Real Radios Glow In The Dark"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Chesek" <tchesek at epix.net>
To: "jack m" <oldvette at hotmail.com>; <mike.mccarty at sbcglobal.net>;
<heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] SB-630 information 2nd request - problem discovered!
> The 1984 Heath Master Parts lists shows the 412-34 as follows: 62.0 V,
> .40 MA, #3AGB
>
> Tom K3TVC
>
>
>
> From: jack m
> Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 5:13 PM
> To: tchesek at epix.net ; mike.mccarty at sbcglobal.net ;
> heathkit at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: RE: [Heathkit] SB-630 information 2nd request - problem
> discovered!
>
> Hi Tom and the rest of the group,
>
> I did get a copy of the SB-630 Monitor parts page from a list member.
>
> The number for the SB-630 neon light is 412-34. Description is simply,
> "Neon lamp". Perhaps someone has access to the Heath Master Parts List
> which would spec this component and cross-ref it to a familiar GE GLow
> Lamp or other type.
>
> I could not find the part referenced on the "regular" parts links commonly
> available to us.
>
> The SB-620 parts list at least stated the lamp used in that kit was the
> NE-83, in addition to the "Neon Lamp" description.
>
> Thanks to all who have helped so far. I may attempt to expose a piece of
> the broken lead if all else fails - (never filed glass before).
>
> Jack W3RU
>
>> From: tchesek at epix.net
>> To: oldvette at hotmail.com; mike.mccarty at sbcglobal.net;
>> heathkit at mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Heathkit] SB-630 information 2nd request - problem
>> discovered!
>> Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2010 18:56:44 -0500
>>
>> Does the SB-630 manual give a Heath part number and if so what is it?
>>
>> Tom K3TVC
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jack m
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 6:33 PM
>> To: mike.mccarty at sbcglobal.net ; heathkit at mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Heathkit] SB-630 information 2nd request - problem
>> discovered!
>>
>>
>> Hi Mike,
>>
>> This certainly is a comprehensive analysis you have described to the
>> list.
>>
>> I received a parts list from a list member which has added to our
>> resources.
>>
>> I took a closer look at the bad bulb, and I discovered that the "GE-A6" I
>> claimed earlier is actually a "GE-AG", which ties in with your findings
>> from
>> the Glow Lamp data book. Now, for which AG, there may be a clue with the
>> color of the dot(s). Looking very critically at the dot(s) complex using
>> greater magnification, it "resembles" the appearance of a Venn diagram,
>> with
>> what may have been three color dots originally daubed on the glass.
>>
>> The (most obscurred) one on the lower left of the triad is either black
>> or
>> green (probably black if I had to guess), the one on the lower right has
>> only an outline remaining of what was most likely brown, and the one on
>> top
>> is probably red. Looking inside of both the NE-2 and the AG, there is no
>> obvious appearance of doping on either element.
>>
>> I sure wish I could do surgery, but the one lead is broken off up in the
>> base.
>>
>> I checked the part numbers in the SB-610 and SB-620 manuals, and the
>> (similar) neon lamps for each of these kits are completely different,
>> although the SB-620 lists it's two neon lamps as NE-83's in the
>> description.
>> No description for either the SB610 or SB-630 lamps - just Heath part
>> numbers. A check of the usual Heath parts sites has nothing listed for
>> neon
>> lamps in the 412-series of part numbers.
>>
>> This is turning into a real detective story!
>>
>> All help is greatly appreciated. What a resource this reflector is!
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Jack W3RU
>>
>> > Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2010 14:26:33 -0600
>> > From: Mike.McCarty at sbcglobal.net
>> > To: oldvette at hotmail.com; heathkit at mailman.qth.net
>> > Subject: Re: [Heathkit] SB-630 information 2nd request - problem
>> > discovered!
>> >
>> > jack m wrote:
>> >
>> > [...]
>> >
>> > > So I figure this is NOT an NE-2 in the SB-630. With the NE-2, the
>> > > ID/buzzer just goes on and stays there, but can be released with a
>> > > plastic tool prying up on the relay. Without the NE-2, the reset
>> > > button will pulse the relay on/off.
>> > >
>> > > Upon magnified inspection, I see a "GE-A6" cast into the broken
>> > > bulb's base, whereas I see a "GE" and "2" on my ten neon spares.
>> >
>> > I've got a copy of the GE Miniature Lamp catalogue, and it doesn't
>> > list a GE-A6. So, I pulled my copy of the GE Glow Lamp book, and
>> > looked in the specs section, and there is no GE-A6. It gives
>> > both the "old" and "new" designations.
>> >
>> > > Just a copy of the parts list would be very helpful, as well as any
>> > > insight to the neon bulb used in the relay circuit. Any pages from
>> > > 29 on back would also be appreciated. Many thanks to those who have
>> > > helped so far.
>> >
>> > It's probably not going to be helpful. It'll probably just
>> > say it's a selected neon bulb with a dot.
>> >
>> > Let's look at the circuit and try to figure out what it does.
>> >
>> > C23 and C24 start out discharged, and the lamp is off. The
>> > caps charge up through the 144 Meg resistance until the voltage
>> > across the lamp is sufficient to make it fire. The sudden
>> > flow of current causes the voltage at C22 to jump, and this
>> > gets passed along to the tube grid, pushing it into conduction,
>> > and energizing the relay.
>> >
>> > When the relay pulls in, the charge on C23 and C24 gets dumped
>> > to ground through current limiter R28, with a time constant of
>> > 4 ms, that is, nearly instantly. It would be about 20 ms to
>> > complete discharge. At that time, the voltage is mostly
>> > from the 220K R33, hence only about 1/2 % of the
>> > voltage on the pot. At this time, the voltage from the pot
>> > through the 220K resistor must be less than the maintaining
>> > voltage of the lamp.
>> >
>> > So, the lamp is part of a relaxation oscillator. It's probably
>> > a selected one, with a known breakdown voltage and resistant
>> > to "dark effect", possibly with a coat to imcrease leakage
>> > resistance (it's in a 140Meg circuit, after all).
>> >
>> > The 0A2 regulates somewhere between 140 to 168 V. That means
>> > that the range of voltages on the pot are
>> >
>> > Vreg. Range on pot Across Bulb
>> > ------ ------------ -----------
>> > 140V 54.6 to 57.4 V 82.6 to 85.4 V
>> > 168V 65.5 to 68.9 V 99.1 to 102.5 V
>> >
>> > So, we need a bulb which is pre aged and has some radioactive
>> > material for stable operating characteristics, and likely
>> > a coat for low leakage. It must be able to fire reliably
>> > on less than 82.6 V, and must extinguish reliably when
>> > the pot voltage is applied through 220K. The latter requirement
>> > is a little harder to figure, since the supply has an
>> > impedance I haven't figured, but is something on the
>> > order of 90K. We'll just look for lamps with an extinguishing
>> > voltage close to the maximum strike voltage (reduced operating
>> > range).
>> >
>> > Looking in the GE glow lamps, I find these as candidates
>> >
>> > Initial Dark BV
>> > --------------- Extinguishing
>> > Bulb Min Max Voltage (250K)
>> > ---- --- --- --------------
>> > 3AD 65 80 50 edgy high BV, good candidate
>> > 3AG-A 60 80 50 edgy high BV, good candidate
>> > 3AG-B 65 73 50 sel. 3AG-A, excellent candidate
>> > 3AG-C 68 76 50 not as good as 3AG-B
>> > 5AB-A 60 80 50 cheapest preaged, good candidate
>> > 5AB-B 62 72 50 selected 5AB-A, excellent candidate and low cost
>> > 5AB-C 68 78 50 selected 5AB-A, excellent candidate
>> > 5AG 64 80 50 good candidate
>> > 5AG-A 68 76 50 excellent candidate
>> >
>> > My best guess is that for the lowest cost most likely to
>> > succeed lamp, try the 5AB-B, if you can find one. Next best
>> > is probably the 3AG-B. Anyway, this table should get you
>> > in the ballpark for a lamp which will work.
>> >
>> > Try not to handle coated bulbs very much. Oils etc. from
>> > your hands may compromise the leakage resistance.
>> >
>> > HTH
>> >
>> > CC: original poster
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > --
>> > p="p=%c%s%c;main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}";main(){printf(p,34,p,34);}
>> > Oppose globalization and One World Governments like the UN.
>> > This message made from 100% recycled bits.
>> > You have found the bank of Larn.
>> > I speak only for myself, and I am unanimous in that!
>>
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