[Heathkit] heathkit manual sacrilege

[Rick Brashear]

Eugene,

I have built many, many Heathkit's and I'm sorry, but even with your
explanation, I have no idea why this is so difficult for you.  I can't
imagine spending hours looking for a component in a unit that is no more
complicated than the 610.  The Heathkit manuals are the standard by which
all others are compared.  Maybe you're overlooking something in the manual
that is making it so difficult for you.  I have a couple of 610's and have
done a few repairs through the years, but I simply don't recall any problems
with deciphering the manual or locating a component.  I would also be
careful changing the size or style of any of the components as they are
likely the best unit for the design.  If you continue to have trouble, I
will gladly get my manual and help if you'd like.

73,
Rick/K5IAR


-----Original Message-----
From: heathkit-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:heathkit-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of eugene at hertzmail.com
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 8:14 PM
To: Edward B Richards
Cc: heathkit at mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Heathkit] heathkit manual sacrilege


Sure. I am looking to place an order to replace all the HV caps (and
selenium diodes, et. al.).

First step for me is to go to the parts list and find the HV components.

Lets take an example. I am reading down the parts list and come across
23-11 which is .1MFD 600V tubular (axial).  

Second step for me is to locate them on the circuit diagram. Why?
Because I want to make sure I know how it's used in the circuit. Is it
polarized? Is it used for bypass or ripple smoothing or as part of an RC
filter or resonant circuit? What should the WVDC rating be? Is the
heathkit specified wvdc ok or do I need to increase? So I like to find
it on the diagram.

Third step is to locate it on the chassis to see if it should be axial
(tubular) or radial. For example, there are some originally tubular caps
that really would fit much better if it were axial or like an orange
drop. Besides this, when I go to replace this cap I need to be able to
find it.

This third step is nearly impossible! Try finding where 23-11 is
located! How does one possibly do this efficiently? Now it just so
happens I've spent several hours trying to do this exercise and I have
located 21-11. As it ends up, it would be MUCH better as a non-axial
component as the tubular is tucked under some pots with the leads
winding their way to the eyelets. The distance between the two eyelets
is about 0.5"

The way I located this is by scanning several pictorials trying to
locate a .1 600V also spent time going through the diagram to see where
the part is to hope it will help me locate it on the pictorial.

So what I've had to do is to create a pictorial designation. For
example, 23-11 which is C311, I have on a spreadsheet the designation of
AG(3)-AH(2).
This indicates to me that this component can be found soldered between
the pin 3 of AG and pin 2 of AH. Pots AG and AH are easily located on
pictorial 7. Why is it more easily found than the capacitor itself?
Because there are big white-on-black designations for these pots.

Here's another example. The parts list shows 21-38 a .02MFD 1600V
ceramic disc cap.  This took forever to locate. I finally found it an in
my spreadsheet, I have designated this as "D3-4" This means that the cap
is located between pins 3 and 4 of terminal strip "D" Again, much more
easily found.  

I don't disagree that adding 21-38 might add some clutter on the
diagram. So then at least show C304 on the pictorial, and I can figure
out the rest.

So what is the better way to do this?
Thanks
Eugene