[Heathkit] Paint gun for boat anchors

[jeremy-ca]

Since 90% of the heat generated is lost in the first 5' out of the tank that 
is where the first water trap should be installed, and oil separator if you 
have an oil lubricated pump. Ideally the air line should come out of the 
primary water trap, go up and then travel horizontally at a very slight down 
tilt to the work area. Then the working line would T off down to the 
secondary traps and regulator. The only thing that should be at the gun is 
an inline filter/trap. Trying to hang a regulator and trap in series at the 
gun makes for an unwieldy setup.
There is lots of info on the internet on setting up a compressor. If you are 
limited to just running a rubber hose on the floor then just do your best to 
keep the final air dry.

Compressors come in many flavors. The average homeowner opts for the cheaper 
oiless versions. These are direct drive, run at 3600 rpm, make enough noise 
to be heard a block away and have a limited life. Dont even think about 
repairs. Sears pump parts for example will run more than the whole 
compressor.

The oil lubricated versions use an electric motor running at 1750 or 3600 
rpm and are belt driven to the pump flywheel. The higher speed motors drive 
higher speed pumps which are noiser than the slow ones and again have a 
shorter service life. If you plan to use a compressor for air tools and 
other shop uses then opt for the slower and quiet running type. My main 
garage compressor is a 5hp 2 stage pump that turns at a stately 575 rpm 
driven by a 1750 rpm Baldor motor. The tank is 80 gallons. Total investment 
was under $300 buying at shop auctions and that included the AC controls, 
primary air control unit and dual filters.

Any 1 1/2-2hp compressor with a 16-20 gallon tank will keep up with the 
smaller HVLP touch up gun when doing something as small as a cabinet. The 
published ratings are for constant trigger so typical in-use ratings are 
much less. A smaller compressor will even do the job if you have sufficient 
tank capacity. One way to do that is to connect tanks in series with a 
length of air hose. Used propane tanks for the grill or even stove/heating 
use can be used and there are adaptors available to convert them 
specifically for that. Since hams are typically cheap that method should be 
appealing!

Sorry to be so long winded, I built my first hot rod the same year I got my 
Novice in 1955 and the dual interests have run my life ever since!

Carl
KM1H



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rodger" <wq9e at dtnspeed.net>
To: "C E" <catman351 at yahoo.com>
Cc: <heathkit at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Heathkit] Paint gun for boat anchors


> People buying the "conversion" type HVLP guns should also be aware that 
> they do require a lot of air and a small compressor is not going to keep 
> up unless the spraying is very intermittent.  Also realize that with the 
> volume of air being used any moisture in the air problems are going to be 
> more noticeable so generally results will be better if you use a 50 or 100 
> foot section of hose between the compressor and HVLP gun (gives the air a 
> further chance to cool and the moisture to condense) and then use a 
> filter/water separator/regulator just before a short swivel hose to your 
> HVLP gun.  The better HVLP outfits are dedicated setups with their own air 
> source but they are definitely overkill for limited BA restoration.
>
> Rodger WQ9E
>
> C E wrote:
>> HVLP-High volume Low Pressure. This is something that
>> the painting industry came out to prevent material
>> coming out of the gun from staying in the air and
>> going to the target paint piece. I personally don't
>> like them  because I feel that I can get a better
>> spray with conventional paint guns.
>> Rattle cans are fine but remember that they have
>> limits. I'd opt to use a model paint gun and a hobby
>> compressor for most BA work. In fact, that is how I
>> painted a 32V2 cabinet.
>>
>>
>>
>
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