[HCARC] Guy Wire Anchors
Gary and Arlene Johnson
qltfnish at omniglobal.net
Mon Mar 4 19:09:47 EST 2013
Dale, My problem is on my property I never know from foot to foot whether I
am going to find solid rock, broken rock or caliche. I can go in a matter
of feet from solid rock to 18 inches of black topsoil over caliche - the
problems of living on a hillside/top. Many times it's broken or at least
fractured shelf rock of varying thicknesses and diameters. This is not
going to be an easy decision, especially if I first drill a 2 inch diameter
hole only to find out I bring up gravel or caliche. I guess I could drill
a test hole with the 3/4 inch drill first to see what I find.
Gary J
N5BAA
HCARC Secretary 2013
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Gaudier" <dale.gaudier at windstream.net>
To: "'Gary and Arlene Johnson'" <qltfnish at omniglobal.net>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2013 4:30 PM
Subject: RE: [HCARC] Guy Wire Anchors
> Gary:
>
> The expanding rock anchor (second option, below) is what you want to use
> when you have to anchor in solid rock. They come in different
> lengths/diameters and tensile strengths. I think Fastenall here in
> Kerrville
> has them or can order them for you, or you can buy online. You want an
> anchor whose tensile strength is greater than the guy wire you will be
> using. The minimum guy wire diameter/tensile strength should be specified
> by
> the tower manufacturer. If you can't find this information readily online,
> trying going to the Tower Talk reflector
> (http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/Towertalk) and asking the
> folks there.
>
> The anchor manufacturer will specify the minimum diameter and depth of the
> hole you need to drill. After you set the anchor, you can fill the hole
> with
> an expanding epoxy concrete, such as Rock-Tite. They should have this at
> Gibsons and Home Depot/Lowes.
>
> BTW, use either galvanized EHS guy wire (not the non-EHS stuff they sell
> in
> Home Depot/Lowes) or Phillystran, with good commercial thimbles, saddle
> clamps and tensioners. I bought mine from an outfit called Tessco
> (www.tessco.com), but there are plenty of other vendors out there. Tessco
> will sell guy wire by the foot or in large rolls. For your tower, you will
> probably need at least 3/16" EHS or Phillystran equivalent (approx. 4000
> lbs. tensile strength) but do follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
> This is one place where you definitely don't want to cut corners.
>
> Good luck & 73,
>
> Dale - K4DG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: hcarc-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:hcarc-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
> On Behalf Of Gary and Arlene Johnson
> Sent: Monday, March 04, 2013 2:09 PM
> To: hcarc at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [HCARC] Guy Wire Anchors
>
> Well, the wind last week convinced me that I better get really serious
> about
> putting in Guy Wire anchors to ensure that my tower remains standing once
> I
> get it up. My tower is a 3 section crank up tilting tower that fully
> extended goes up to approx 56 feet. I have a 4th section for it that
> would
> take me up to approx 72-74 feet, but would rather use that 20 foot section
> with another two sections of Rohn 25 and some welding to make a second
> crank
> up tower of about 38 feet. This second tower would serve as an attachment
> point for dipoles and an inverted L. I don't anticipate trying to put a
> rotor on this much smaller tower section.
>
> To the meat of the question - what kind of guy wire anchors are
> recommended
> for use in this hard rocky ground?? I don't see any way of putting in an
> anchor that twists into the ground, however I have thought about using
> those
> style anchors and placing them in some short 18 - 24 inch deep trenches
> that
> I could dig perpendicular to the tower base when I have the ditching
> machine
> here next weekend.I figure to be able to make a T shaped hole with the leg
> of the T facing the tower base and backfilling the hole with concrete so
> the
> anchor would be in the concrete down in the T and aimed at the correct
> angle
> for the tower guy height. I have also seen the anchors that you screw to
> expand them out after you have bored a proper sized hole in the ground. I
> have my BIG rotary rock drill and have bits of 3/4 inch, 1 1/2 inches, and
> 1
> 5/8ths inch, with a 2 inch bit available. The anchors I have seen ask for
> either a 1 7/8ths or 2 inch diameter hole drilled at the proper angle.
> BTW,
> if
> anyone is contemplating putting in a fence and needs to put in T posts,
> the 1 5/8 inch drill will bore holes 2 feet deep and will allow you to put
> the posts where you want vs where the ground allows you to. The drill and
> bit is available for the asking. I have the 1 1/2 inch bit because it is
> 42
> inches long, allowing me to dig to rock and then bore holes 40 or so
> inches
> deeper yet, which hopefully is through the hard rock and into caliche thus
> allowing for better placement of the ground rod. I was going to drive the
> rod and then backfill the 1 1/2 inch hole with copper sulfate. That and
> some water occasionally should make for an adequate ground.
>
> Any other thoughts??
>
> Gary J
> N5BAA
> HCARC Secretary 2013
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