[HCARC] RF Grounding Counterpoise
ALoneStarYank at aol.com
ALoneStarYank at aol.com
Sat Oct 6 16:44:58 EDT 2012
I can not believe all the drivel that is posted about amateur radio on the
internet. (and that people believe) W2IK
In a message dated 10/6/2012 3:28:49 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
qltfnish at omniglobal.net writes:
OOPS - Reflector won't allow me to do red. Anyway, it's the part about
running a #8 wire 1/2 inch underground all the way around your Ham Shack
for
an RF Counterpoise.
Gary J
N5"BAA"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary and Arlene Johnson" <qltfnish at omniglobal.net>
To: <hcarc at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2012 3:25 PM
Subject: [HCARC] RF Grounding Counterpoise
> This article in hamuniverse.com on grounding seems to talk about
something
> I have not heard of being necessary or even desired. The part I am
> wondering about is the section of the quoted part concerning running
wire
> completely around your Ham Shack to act as an RF Counterpoise. I need
> your comments - as I said I have not heard of this, but have the wire to
> do it if neccessary. I want my "BAAAAA" to be as loud and clear as
> possible. The part in question is the part in red.
>
> Gary J
> N5"BAA"
>
>
> http://www.hamuniverse.com/grounding.html
>
> "Your ground run should go directly to the ground where you should have
a
> ground rod for the connection point, (which will be connected to all
your
> other ground rods in the system as discussed above). This run must be
> less than nine feet to be effective. If you are on the second floor
this
> will make this length impossible. Use of a shielded ground* wire can
stop
> radiation of the ground wire but you will still have a lousy ground.
> Nothing can change this. Ground wire tuners only turn your ground wire
> into a counterpoise for your antenna, meaning it WILL radiate. This
will
> only ensure that the low voltage point of your antenna will be at your
> radio. Next we need to form our RF counterpoise outside at our ground
> system. You will next need to add some bare copper wire at the RF
> feedpoint where your shack ground wire connects to. I prefer to use
bare
> 8 gauge copper ground wire here. It is single conductor, bare copper
and
> easily bent and run around house. Single stran
>
> d is best but it should definitely be bare even if you have to strip
> insulation off wire. Run it around the house or anywhere it will stay
out
> of the way fo lawn equipment but not buried deeper than 1/2 inches.
This
> is CRITICAL. RF will not penetrate soil deeper than this at these
> frequencies. Those bonding wires you have between ground rods and
ground
> rods do not exist to the RF! Burying this wire under wood chips or
> similar non conductive landscaping, etc is the way to go. This
> counterpoise should be as long as the wire antennas you have in the air.
> For most hams this will be about 130 feet. Longer is better. I run all
> the way around my house. I have found the eight gauge will push into
the
> spacing used between driveway and foundation when persuaded with the
> proper tool, (READ HAMMER). You can connect the loop back on itself at
> the feed point. This can add several S units to the receive signal and
> dramatically reduce noise on the signal, though nothing will h
>
> elp all the noise on 80 or 160 meters. Years ago I installed a long
wire
> antenna that was about 250 feet long and about 50 feet in the air. This
> should work fantastic you say. I had three ground rods outside window
of
> shack with single ott solid copper ground wire direct to tuner. Ground
> wire length was only six feet. All three rods were spaced about eight
> feet apart with connecting bare wire interconnecting them....in other
> words, a really good surge ground. What I did not realize at that time
> was how lousy my RF ground was. We could not tune the antenna on most
> frequencies and we kept getting zapped from the radio or microphone when
> we transmitted. Also, our signal reports were lousy. SO, after
> consulting some experts, I added 250 feet of counterpoise around the
> building consisting of some bare 6 gauge copper wire I had. The radio
was
> on while I rolled it out and a friend was listening to the broadcast on
40
> meters, (OK it was night time---best time to do antenn
>
> a work right!) Anyway he reported the broadcast was only about S 4-5 on
> meter. As I rolled out the counterpoise it rose to 40 over S9 and came
in
> much clearer. We were able to tune everything easily now and SWR was
rock
> stable. When we did a signal test, the station we had talked to before
> accused us of running a contest amplifier. We could not convince them
it
> was only 100 watts, same as before and the same antenna! "
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