From sswhite at mchsi.com  Tue Mar  4 17:54:00 2014
From: sswhite at mchsi.com (Steve)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 16:54:00 -0600
Subject: [HBR] Chassis Questions
Message-ID: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz>

Hii All
 
I am making progress on building up a 2x4+1 receiver as a learing exercise
before I tackle the HBR 14.  However, I have been locating parts etc but
still have not found the chassis I want.  Now that  Charles Byers, K3IWK is
a silent key and his buisness is closed up I wonder if anyone has found
another supplie of good chassis's...I know that I can get something from Bud
or Hammond but they seem a bit on the light duty side and will flex maybe
more than they should.  Anyone have any ideas on where to obtain a good
chassis??
 
Steve NU0P

From wrcromwell at gmail.com  Tue Mar  4 18:09:34 2014
From: wrcromwell at gmail.com (Bill Cromwell)
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2014 18:09:34 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Chassis Questions
In-Reply-To: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz>
References: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz>
Message-ID: <53165D2E.6080006@gmail.com>

Hi Steve,

What about making one?

73,

Bill  KU8H


On 03/04/2014 05:54 PM, Steve wrote:
> Hii All
>   
> I am making progress on building up a 2x4+1 receiver as a learing exercise
> before I tackle the HBR 14.  However, I have been locating parts etc but
> still have not found the chassis I want.  Now that  Charles Byers, K3IWK is
> a silent key and his buisness is closed up I wonder if anyone has found
> another supplie of good chassis's...I know that I can get something from Bud
> or Hammond but they seem a bit on the light duty side and will flex maybe
> more than they should.  Anyone have any ideas on where to obtain a good
> chassis??
>   
> Steve NU0P
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>


From sswhite at mchsi.com  Tue Mar  4 18:24:03 2014
From: sswhite at mchsi.com (Steve)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 17:24:03 -0600
Subject: [HBR] Chassis Questions
In-Reply-To: <53165D2E.6080006@gmail.com>
References: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz> <53165D2E.6080006@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BDE66208545A47F3B56C05B520ED350E@Ghz>

I have some of the tools to do that...I have a foot stomp shear, and a small
brake but it doesn't have fingers...I can cut .063 soft aluminum and bend it
pretty well.  So that is an option but am better at layout and soldering..

Steve
 

-----Original Message-----
From: hbr-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:hbr-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Cromwell
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2014 5:10 PM
To: hbr at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [HBR] Chassis Questions

Hi Steve,

What about making one?

73,

Bill  KU8H


On 03/04/2014 05:54 PM, Steve wrote:
> Hii All
>   
> I am making progress on building up a 2x4+1 receiver as a learing 
> exercise before I tackle the HBR 14.  However, I have been locating 
> parts etc but still have not found the chassis I want.  Now that  
> Charles Byers, K3IWK is a silent key and his buisness is closed up I 
> wonder if anyone has found another supplie of good chassis's...I know 
> that I can get something from Bud or Hammond but they seem a bit on 
> the light duty side and will flex maybe more than they should.  Anyone 
> have any ideas on where to obtain a good chassis??
>   
> Steve NU0P
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


From smithab11 at comcast.net  Tue Mar  4 18:58:08 2014
From: smithab11 at comcast.net (B. Smith)
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2014 18:58:08 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Chassis Questions
In-Reply-To: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz>
References: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz>
Message-ID: <53166890.3030603@comcast.net>

You could beef up the standard Bud chassis by cutting a heavier bottom 
and top plate.
Another option is build your own.  Cut sides and then bend   3/4 tabs 
for the top and bottom plates. . . then  to avoid the tricky side 
joints  join the sides  together with standard aluminum 90 degree angle 
available available at your home supply store using standard hardware.  
No brake , take your aluminum to a nearby by welding/fabrication shop, 
they can bend anything.

73 breck k4che
http://k4che.com/HBR/HBR%20page%201.htm


On 3/4/2014 5:54 PM, Steve wrote:
> Hii All
>   
> I am making progress on building up a 2x4+1 receiver as a learing exercise
> before I tackle the HBR 14.  However, I have been locating parts etc but
> still have not found the chassis I want.  Now that  Charles Byers, K3IWK is
> a silent key and his buisness is closed up I wonder if anyone has found
> another supplie of good chassis's...I know that I can get something from Bud
> or Hammond but they seem a bit on the light duty side and will flex maybe
> more than they should.  Anyone have any ideas on where to obtain a good
> chassis??
>   
> Steve NU0P
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>


From wrcromwell at gmail.com  Tue Mar  4 19:39:07 2014
From: wrcromwell at gmail.com (Bill Cromwell)
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2014 19:39:07 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Chassis Questions
In-Reply-To: <53166890.3030603@comcast.net>
References: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz>
	<53166890.3030603@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5316722B.6050208@gmail.com>

Another way to "cheat" is to use angle iron or steel to frame the 
outside perimeter of a 'box' using a vice to make the bends or angle 
brackets with either rivets or nuts and screws. Then lay your chassis 
top deck on the frame rails - no bending required. Use rivets or screws 
and nuts to fasten the top deck onto the frame rails. I have made some 
that way and they are pretty dern rigid. After it's buried inside the 
radio nobody is going see any flaws you leave. For one project I even 
made a metal box to hold and protect a high current 13 volt supply. 
After trimming and paint it looked like a store bought unit. The 
aluminum plates I got as scrap from a metal shop and had them cut to 
size. All six outer panels were individually bolted to the angle iron frame.

73,

Bill  KU8H

On 03/04/2014 06:58 PM, B. Smith wrote:
> You could beef up the standard Bud chassis by cutting a heavier bottom 
> and top plate.
> Another option is build your own.  Cut sides and then bend   3/4 tabs 
> for the top and bottom plates. . . then  to avoid the tricky side 
> joints  join the sides  together with standard aluminum 90 degree 
> angle available available at your home supply store using standard 
> hardware.  No brake , take your aluminum to a nearby by 
> welding/fabrication shop, they can bend anything.
>
> 73 breck k4che
> http://k4che.com/HBR/HBR%20page%201.htm
>
>
> On 3/4/2014 5:54 PM, Steve wrote:
>> Hii All
>>   I am making progress on building up a 2x4+1 receiver as a learing 
>> exercise
>> before I tackle the HBR 14.  However, I have been locating parts etc but
>> still have not found the chassis I want.  Now that  Charles Byers, 
>> K3IWK is
>> a silent key and his buisness is closed up I wonder if anyone has found
>> another supplie of good chassis's...I know that I can get something 
>> from Bud
>> or Hammond but they seem a bit on the light duty side and will flex 
>> maybe
>> more than they should.  Anyone have any ideas on where to obtain a good
>> chassis??
>>   Steve NU0P
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> HBR mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>


From kris at merschrod.net  Tue Mar  4 20:03:07 2014
From: kris at merschrod.net (kris merschrod)
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2014 20:03:07 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Chassis Questions
In-Reply-To: <5316722B.6050208@gmail.com>
References: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz>
	<53166890.3030603@comcast.net> <5316722B.6050208@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00cb01cf380e$aef0fbc0$0cd2f340$@merschrod.net>

I've used baking trays or pans.  They come in all sizes and are aluminum.
How about a Bundt pan?  Put the muffin fan under the center hole and mount
the 500-Z above it for glow and flow! Opps, that's the xmitter section!

The baking supply section of the super market has some great materials.

Kris KM2KM

MERSCHROD
123 Warren Road
Ithaca, NY 14850
Skype: Merschrod

-----Original Message-----
From: hbr-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:hbr-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Cromwell
Sent: Tuesday, March 4, 2014 7:39 PM
To: hbr at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [HBR] Chassis Questions

Another way to "cheat" is to use angle iron or steel to frame the outside
perimeter of a 'box' using a vice to make the bends or angle brackets with
either rivets or nuts and screws. Then lay your chassis top deck on the
frame rails - no bending required. Use rivets or screws and nuts to fasten
the top deck onto the frame rails. I have made some that way and they are
pretty dern rigid. After it's buried inside the radio nobody is going see
any flaws you leave. For one project I even made a metal box to hold and
protect a high current 13 volt supply. 
After trimming and paint it looked like a store bought unit. The aluminum
plates I got as scrap from a metal shop and had them cut to size. All six
outer panels were individually bolted to the angle iron frame.

73,

Bill  KU8H

On 03/04/2014 06:58 PM, B. Smith wrote:
> You could beef up the standard Bud chassis by cutting a heavier bottom 
> and top plate.
> Another option is build your own.  Cut sides and then bend   3/4 tabs 
> for the top and bottom plates. . . then  to avoid the tricky side 
> joints  join the sides  together with standard aluminum 90 degree 
> angle available available at your home supply store using standard 
> hardware.  No brake , take your aluminum to a nearby by 
> welding/fabrication shop, they can bend anything.
>
> 73 breck k4che
> http://k4che.com/HBR/HBR%20page%201.htm
>
>
> On 3/4/2014 5:54 PM, Steve wrote:
>> Hii All
>>   I am making progress on building up a 2x4+1 receiver as a learing 
>> exercise before I tackle the HBR 14.  However, I have been locating 
>> parts etc but still have not found the chassis I want.  Now that  
>> Charles Byers, K3IWK is a silent key and his buisness is closed up I 
>> wonder if anyone has found another supplie of good chassis's...I know 
>> that I can get something from Bud or Hammond but they seem a bit on 
>> the light duty side and will flex maybe more than they should.  
>> Anyone have any ideas on where to obtain a good chassis??
>>   Steve NU0P
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> HBR mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this 
>> email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


From sswhite at mchsi.com  Tue Mar  4 20:30:58 2014
From: sswhite at mchsi.com (Steve)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 19:30:58 -0600
Subject: [HBR] Chassis Questions
In-Reply-To: <53166890.3030603@comcast.net>
References: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz>
	<53166890.3030603@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A5378A8E96504883BE53244B210E5413@Ghz>

I had thought about that and in looking on your web page where you show the
chassis you used it looks to me that I could have my metal supplier to bend
up the 3 inch side pamels for me in say 5 foot lengths and then I could saw
off what I need and attach them to the top chassis.  For my metal shop to do
that for me is pretty cheap..

Steve 

-----Original Message-----
From: hbr-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:hbr-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On
Behalf Of B. Smith
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2014 5:58 PM
To: HBR Receiver List
Subject: Re: [HBR] Chassis Questions

You could beef up the standard Bud chassis by cutting a heavier bottom and
top plate.
Another option is build your own.  Cut sides and then bend   3/4 tabs 
for the top and bottom plates. . . then  to avoid the tricky side joints
join the sides  together with standard aluminum 90 degree angle available
available at your home supply store using standard hardware.  
No brake , take your aluminum to a nearby by welding/fabrication shop, they
can bend anything.

73 breck k4che
http://k4che.com/HBR/HBR%20page%201.htm


On 3/4/2014 5:54 PM, Steve wrote:
> Hii All
>   
> I am making progress on building up a 2x4+1 receiver as a learing 
> exercise before I tackle the HBR 14.  However, I have been locating 
> parts etc but still have not found the chassis I want.  Now that  
> Charles Byers, K3IWK is a silent key and his buisness is closed up I 
> wonder if anyone has found another supplie of good chassis's...I know 
> that I can get something from Bud or Hammond but they seem a bit on 
> the light duty side and will flex maybe more than they should.  Anyone 
> have any ideas on where to obtain a good chassis??
>   
> Steve NU0P
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


From radio at daileyservices.com  Tue Mar  4 20:33:08 2014
From: radio at daileyservices.com (radio at daileyservices.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2014 18:33:08 -0700
Subject: [HBR] Chassis Questions
References: <617014AD505543B6A21DB39EE072625A@Ghz>
Message-ID: <CC9918B15E904CB69E2D0B023801D6EF@w0eaj>

Surplus US Navy "steaming" lockers had very nice aluminum drawers that were 
PERFECT.  Not sure if they're around anymore, but check with HVAC 
contractors - mostly they use galvanized metal, but there ARE aluminum 
duct-systems used, and they have all manner of boxes and covers for them.

Tom - W0EAJ 


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
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From wrhiggs at lizcurtishiggs.com  Wed Mar  5 11:21:33 2014
From: wrhiggs at lizcurtishiggs.com (Bill Higgs)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2014 11:21:33 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Chassis Questions
Message-ID: <CAFvL9rD2YVTe4svGHedGfqvN1d-drbAkbXTWC=Z4NELX8Vv3rA@mail.gmail.com>

In building my HBR, I faced the same issues: flimsy but expensive chassis.
I found at a hamfest for, I think $1.00, an obsolete digital widget of some
sort (printer server, maybe?) with the typical u-shaped cabinet. The top
cover was of heavy-gauge aluminum, and together with a front and rear panel
cut from scrap aluminum plate (or cut from another scrapped cabinet,
perhaps) and some extruded aluminum angle from Home Depot, I had a quite
sturdy and serviceable chassis and panel. Thick enough to be tapped,
actually.

I also added some triangular braces between the front panel and the
chassis. The most important stability issue regards the tuning cap and
associated inductor and circuitry; that they be rigid in regards to each
other. I've also had good success with thinner chassis and stiffening the
assembly with aluminum heat sink stock (also can shield the oscillator, by
the way).

73,

-Bill

NT4C

From smithab11 at comcast.net  Thu Mar  6 15:46:01 2014
From: smithab11 at comcast.net (B. Smith)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2014 15:46:01 -0500
Subject: [HBR] HBR Cabinet and Aluminum Angle Usage
Message-ID: <5318DE89.9010804@comcast.net>

I've added some photos of a simple enclosure for the HBR-14 receiver 
using aluminum  angle to form the cabinet.

http://k4che.com/HBR/Cabinet/Cabinet.htm

73 k4che

From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Thu Mar  6 20:28:48 2014
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (Whitebear1122)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2014 19:28:48 -0600
Subject: [HBR] HBR Cabinet and Aluminum Angle Usage
In-Reply-To: <5318DE89.9010804@comcast.net>
References: <5318DE89.9010804@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <FF25A234-0784-4D5A-BF35-33CA0A4A5503@comcast.net>

Thanks Breck for the extra photos of your HBR cabinet building technique.  I have to agree with you, the typical cabinet for an HBR 16 sized radio with a 19" rack panel is quite large and can weigh quite a bit.  I've looked over your cabinet photos in close detail over the past year so your new pictures were very appreciated as they give me more insight into how to build my own.  Thanks!

I am actively building my HBR-13 on a full size 17"x12" chassis with a standard 19" rack panel and have a nice sturdy cabinet for it.   I may give your cabinet technique a try as it would reduce the footprint by several inches horizontally and eliminate perhaps 25 pounds of weight. 

73, Scott WA9WFA
 
On Mar 6, 2014, at 2:46 PM, "B. Smith" <smithab11 at comcast.net> wrote:

> I've added some photos of a simple enclosure for the HBR-14 receiver using aluminum  angle to form the cabinet.
> 
> http://k4che.com/HBR/Cabinet/Cabinet.htm
> 
> 73 k4che


From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 14 16:48:39 2014
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (Whitebear1122)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 15:48:39 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Fwd: Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>

> Looks like this post was rejected the first time so I'm resending.

> Almost embarrassed to ask this but what are the threads for the Eddystone three section variable cap that is typically used in the HBR receiver?   I just got back from ACE Hardware and could not find a screw that matched the threads.  It seems like a #6 but the threads aren't right.  I tried both US and metric.  I was planning on mounting the variable cap to the RF sub chassis, make sure everything lines up, then drill the holes for mounting the RF sub chassis on the main chassis.  
> 
> On my HBR-13 project, the main chassis is 98% drilled and milled.  The last component arrived today, an 8 section barrier strip that mounts on the rear panel and has connections for antenna, speaker, mute, and and extra pair.  RF sub chassis is all drilled and milled.  BFO chassis left to drill.  I have a plexiglass front panel drilled and milled, the Eddystone slide rule dial mounted, and the panel mounted to the chassis.  I'm figuring another week of last mechanical work and then I can start building.
> 
> 73, Scott WA9WFA
> 
> 
> 


From radioconnection at gmail.com  Fri Mar 14 17:28:55 2014
From: radioconnection at gmail.com (Peter Bertini)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 17:28:55 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Fwd: Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>

A lot of pre-war equipment used 4-32 hardware.  I just ran into this on a
SX-16 dial bezel.


On Fri, Mar 14, 2014 at 4:48 PM, Whitebear1122 <whitebear1122 at comcast.net>wrote:

> > Looks like this post was rejected the first time so I'm resending.
>
> > Almost embarrassed to ask this but what are the threads for the
> Eddystone three section variable cap that is typically used in the HBR
> receiver?   I just got back from ACE Hardware and could not find a screw
> that matched the threads.  It seems like a #6 but the threads aren't right.
>  I tried both US and metric.  I was planning on mounting the variable cap
> to the RF sub chassis, make sure everything lines up, then drill the holes
> for mounting the RF sub chassis on the main chassis.
> >
> > On my HBR-13 project, the main chassis is 98% drilled and milled.  The
> last component arrived today, an 8 section barrier strip that mounts on the
> rear panel and has connections for antenna, speaker, mute, and and extra
> pair.  RF sub chassis is all drilled and milled.  BFO chassis left to
> drill.  I have a plexiglass front panel drilled and milled, the Eddystone
> slide rule dial mounted, and the panel mounted to the chassis.  I'm
> figuring another week of last mechanical work and then I can start building.
> >
> > 73, Scott WA9WFA
> >
> >
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

From james at plateautel.net  Fri Mar 14 17:54:18 2014
From: james at plateautel.net (James Fuller)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 15:54:18 -0600
Subject: [HBR] Fwd: Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B2458942-48D4-4492-85CD-E68F593B9ACD@plateautel.net>

Hi,

You might try 6-40 if the 6-32 seem almost right.

JamesF


> On Mar 14, 2014, at 2:48 PM, Whitebear1122 <whitebear1122 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 

> Looks like this post was rejected the first time so I'm resending.

> Almost embarrassed to ask this but what are the threads for the Eddystone three section variable cap that is typically used in the HBR receiver?   I just got back from ACE Hardware and could not find a screw that matched the threads.  It seems like a #6 but the threads aren't right.  I tried both US and metric.  I was planning on mounting the variable cap to the RF sub chassis, make sure everything lines up, then drill the holes for mounting the RF sub chassis on the main chassis.  
> 
> On my HBR-13 project, the main chassis is 98% drilled and milled.  The last component arrived today, an 8 section barrier strip that mounts on the rear panel and has connections for antenna, speaker, mute, and and extra pair.  RF sub chassis is all drilled and milled.  BFO chassis left to drill.  I have a plexiglass front panel drilled and milled, the Eddystone slide rule dial mounted, and the panel mounted to the chassis.  I'm figuring another week of last mechanical work and then I can start building.
> 
> 73, Scott WA9WFA

______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

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Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

From bignick at execpc.com  Fri Mar 14 18:09:40 2014
From: bignick at execpc.com (bignick at execpc.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 18:09:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [HBR] Remote receiver muting circuit?
Message-ID: <62926.24.209.127.165.1394834980.squirrel@webmail.core.com>



Hello fellow HBR enthusiasts!

I have started using my HBR in
conjunction with my circa 1965 SSB sweep tube
transmitter to make
QSO's.

Id like to incorporate a T/R sequencer so I don't have
to do the "switch the antenna,
flip the receiver mute switch,
hit the transmit key" routine.? (I am shorting the antenna
input to the HBR as well.)

Has anyone any idea how I can
incorporate a remote receiver mute scheme for the HBR-11?

I
don't know if routing any signal leads or power leads out of the receiver
is a good idea.
Maybe installing a small DIP relay inside the HBR and
routing the coil connections out of the HBR?

And, I hate to
ruin the vintage look of the vintage internal components :-(

Any ideas are greatly appreciated .. Or perhaps this topic has been
addressed somewhere?


http://www.bignick.net/S/f1.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/f2.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/top.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/under.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/back.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/detail.jpg

Thanks!

--Tom Nickel 

KC9KEP




From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 14 18:35:36 2014
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (Whitebear1122)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 17:35:36 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Fwd: Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <B2458942-48D4-4492-85CD-E68F593B9ACD@plateautel.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
	<B2458942-48D4-4492-85CD-E68F593B9ACD@plateautel.net>
Message-ID: <BAB216CA-20C1-4D01-814E-49C2B4DD0CE3@comcast.net>

I think you hit on it.  I was able to find a piece of the original mounting hardware, just a length of screw and measure it with the micrometer.  I've estimated it to be around 37 turns per inch as measured from my 0.29" length, and a #6 seems right right diameter.  I've never heard of a 6-40 before so that must be it.  Thanks James. 
On Mar 14, 2014, at 4:54 PM, James Fuller <james at plateautel.net> wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> You might try 6-40 if the 6-32 seem almost right.
> 
> JamesF
> 


From Gcromer at usit.net  Fri Mar 14 18:36:18 2014
From: Gcromer at usit.net (Gerald Cromer)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 18:36:18 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Remote receiver muting circuit?
References: <62926.24.209.127.165.1394834980.squirrel@webmail.core.com>
Message-ID: <CE8776B8EBA34273AA7BE51F4221598E@gerald2369b375>

The workmanship looks GREAT...

73's
Gerald K4NHN
Cayce, SC


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <bignick at execpc.com>
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2014 6:09 PM
Subject: [HBR] Remote receiver muting circuit?




Hello fellow HBR enthusiasts!

I have started using my HBR in
conjunction with my circa 1965 SSB sweep tube
transmitter to make
QSO's.

Id like to incorporate a T/R sequencer so I don't have
to do the "switch the antenna,
flip the receiver mute switch,
hit the transmit key" routine. (I am shorting the antenna
input to the HBR as well.)

Has anyone any idea how I can
incorporate a remote receiver mute scheme for the HBR-11?

I
don't know if routing any signal leads or power leads out of the receiver
is a good idea.
Maybe installing a small DIP relay inside the HBR and
routing the coil connections out of the HBR?

And, I hate to
ruin the vintage look of the vintage internal components :-(

Any ideas are greatly appreciated .. Or perhaps this topic has been
addressed somewhere?


http://www.bignick.net/S/f1.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/f2.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/top.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/under.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/back.jpg
http://www.bignick.net/S/detail.jpg

Thanks!

--Tom Nickel 

KC9KEP



______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 14 18:39:01 2014
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (Whitebear1122)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 17:39:01 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
	<CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>

Thanks Peter for the suggestion to check for oddball screw size.  I was thinking it was metric but I hadn't considered something odd like 4-32 or 6-40.  After measuring up a broken piece of mounting hardware I measured about 11 turns in it's 0.29" length so that comes out to be 37T/inch which must be 40T/inch, and a diameter like a #6 =  6-40.  Thanks. 73, Scott WA9WFA
On Mar 14, 2014, at 4:28 PM, Peter Bertini <radioconnection at gmail.com> wrote:

> A lot of pre-war equipment used 4-32 hardware.  I just ran into this on a
> SX-16 dial bezel.
> 
> 


From waltah at earthlink.net  Fri Mar 14 18:48:36 2014
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 18:48:36 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Fwd: Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1986558737.20140314184836@earthlink.net>

Whitebear1122 said:


>> Almost embarrassed to ask this but what are the threads for the
>> Eddystone three section variable cap that is typically used in the
>> HBR receiver?

Why embarrassed? I'm pretty sure those are Whitworth threads and
essentially unknown in the U.S.  See the Wikipedia article here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Whitworth

Send me an address offline and I'll mail you four of what I think they
are.

Walt Hutchens
KJ4KV


From waltah at earthlink.net  Fri Mar 14 20:03:22 2014
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 20:03:22 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
	<CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <338664652.20140314200322@earthlink.net>

Whitebear1122 said:

> I was thinking it was metric but I hadn't considered something odd
> like 4-32 or 6-40.  After measuring up a broken piece of mounting
> hardware I measured about 11 turns in it's 0.29" length so that
> comes out to be 37T/inch which must be 40T/inch, and a diameter like a #6 =  6-40.

1/8"-40 is a Whitworth size.  If you have a broken piece of it you
should be able to confirm or deny that by measuring the diameter --
the nominal diameter would be 1/8".

Walt Hutchens
KJ4KV


From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 14 21:19:59 2014
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (Whitebear1122)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 20:19:59 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Fwd: Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <1986558737.20140314184836@earthlink.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
	<1986558737.20140314184836@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <E881C0B3-01D5-4009-ABDE-9E168D683A85@comcast.net>

I was able to extract a complete screw from the old mounting bracket.  I remeasured with the caliper.  Screw diameter is 0.137" thread to thread.  Screw length is 0.475", looks like about 1 thread worth of shank before the thread starts, and using the magnifying glass I counted 16 turns.  That comes out around 32 or 33 turns. From the web that turns count and diameter lines up with the 6-40. I'm not sure if that's considered "Whitworth" or not.  
73, Scott WA9WFA

On Mar 14, 2014, at 5:48 PM, Walt Hutchens <waltah at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Whitebear1122 said:
> 
> 
>>> Almost embarrassed to ask this but what are the threads for the
>>> Eddystone three section variable cap that is typically used in the
>>> HBR receiver?
> 
> Why embarrassed? I'm pretty sure those are Whitworth threads and
> essentially unknown in the U.S.  See the Wikipedia article here:
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Whitworth
> 
> Send me an address offline and I'll mail you four of what I think they
> are.
> 
> Walt Hutchens
> KJ4KV
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 14 21:25:57 2014
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (Whitebear1122)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 20:25:57 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <338664652.20140314200322@earthlink.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
	<CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>
	<338664652.20140314200322@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <563023E5-4E74-459E-B556-257B3FEB0544@comcast.net>

After carefully remeasuring two or three times, the diameter is 0.137" or 0.138".   There is maybe 1 turn's worth of shank, plus I counted 16 turns.  If I add the shank as a turn that's 17 turns over 0.475" which comes out to 35 turns/inch which doesn't quite jive.  The 4-40 is 0.137"-0.138" diameter so that works.  The 6-40's 40 turns/inch doesn't quite work out but the Whitworth's 1/8" (0.125") seems a bit small.  Sorry for the confusion.  

It looks like my application would need two 1" screws and 6 nuts to get the capacitor stood off the chassis and snugged down tightly, and allow bit of alignment.

73, Scott WA9WFA

On Mar 14, 2014, at 7:03 PM, Walt Hutchens <waltah at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Whitebear1122 said:
> 
>> I was thinking it was metric but I hadn't considered something odd
>> like 4-32 or 6-40.  After measuring up a broken piece of mounting
>> hardware I measured about 11 turns in it's 0.29" length so that
>> comes out to be 37T/inch which must be 40T/inch, and a diameter like a #6 =  6-40.
> 
> 1/8"-40 is a Whitworth size.  If you have a broken piece of it you
> should be able to confirm or deny that by measuring the diameter --
> the nominal diameter would be 1/8".
> 
> Walt Hutchens
> KJ4KV
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


From smithab11 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 14 21:55:48 2014
From: smithab11 at comcast.net (B. Smith)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 21:55:48 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <563023E5-4E74-459E-B556-257B3FEB0544@comcast.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>	<CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>	<6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>	<338664652.20140314200322@earthlink.net>
	<563023E5-4E74-459E-B556-257B3FEB0544@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5323B324.2000805@comcast.net>

I highly recommend cutting  several  1/4 inch aluminum sections- - for 
instance 1/2  inch by 2 inch sections  and use your  hardware to 
stabilize each end of the variable tuning  capacitor. The 1/4 stock is 
easy to saw with hand tools and is available at any home supply store. 
Past experience with a variable  cap mounted with several bolts and 
using nuts as spacers had resulted in unstable results.   A couple of 
photos of the variable capacitor and the aluminum spacers can be seen:
http://k4che.com/HBR/Cabinet/Cabinet.htm
73 k4che

It looks like my application would need two 1" screws and 6 nuts to get 
the capacitor stood off the chassis and snugged down tightly, and allow 
bit of alignment. 73, Scott WA9WFA

From waltah at earthlink.net  Fri Mar 14 22:07:31 2014
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2014 22:07:31 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <563023E5-4E74-459E-B556-257B3FEB0544@comcast.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
	<CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>
	<338664652.20140314200322@earthlink.net>
	<563023E5-4E74-459E-B556-257B3FEB0544@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <416742481.20140314220731@earthlink.net>

Whitebear1122 said:

> The 6-40's 40 turns/inch doesn't
> quite work out but the Whitworth's 1/8" (0.125") seems a bit small.

It does, but I just mic'ed the screws I have: The diameter over the
threads is .137 and as near as I can count on a 1/4" length, they
would be 40 TPI.

I'm betting that the Whitworth rounded peak and valley is simply
omitted -- that some makers use V threads of appropriate nominal
diameter and pitch and call them 'Whitworth.' They would be fine as
nut-bolt pairs, though not when mixed with the real thing. And that
would increase the overall diameter somewhat over the nominal .125.

It's far easier to make the tooling for a V thread than for a real
Whitworth. You can freehand a workable 60 (or 55) degree cutting tool
to make a V thread on a lathe but good luck making the tool for
Whitworth which needs both a rounded tip and a shoulder at the proper
place. That would require a precision set-up, particularly in such
small sizes.

Unfortunately I have only the 1/4" screws so I can't help you with the
1" issue. I'd suggest going on line to find what you need. All kinds
of stuff is out there.

Here's another idea: Check the dimensions of an 8-40NS (national
special) screw. It's going to be VERY close, and those screws
are extensively used in mounting scopes and similar gunsmithing jobs;
you should be able to buy them in lengths of 1". Or failing all else
you might get a particularly well-equipped gunsmith to make them for
you.

Walt Hutchens


From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Sun Mar 16 19:26:23 2014
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (Whitebear1122)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2014 18:26:23 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <5323B324.2000805@comcast.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>	<CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>	<6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>	<338664652.20140314200322@earthlink.net>
	<563023E5-4E74-459E-B556-257B3FEB0544@comcast.net>
	<5323B324.2000805@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <561F42AD-8AF1-45A8-B53A-E694438F4A38@comcast.net>

Thanks Breck for the advice.  I'm looking into it.  I have some 1/8" aluminum strips that will work like you said.  I'm thinking of mounting the capacitor to the top aluminum plate using some 1/4" screws, then stack up three plates and attach the whole shebang to the chassis using standard #6-32 screws of the right length.  Thanks. 73, Scott WA9WFA

On Mar 14, 2014, at 8:55 PM, B. Smith <smithab11 at comcast.net> wrote:

> I highly recommend cutting  several  1/4 inch aluminum sections- - for instance 1/2  inch by 2 inch sections  and use your  hardware to stabilize each end of the variable tuning  capacitor. The 1/4 stock is easy to saw with hand tools and is available at any home supply store. Past experience with a variable  cap mounted with several bolts and using nuts as spacers had resulted in unstable results.   A couple of photos of the variable capacitor and the aluminum spacers can be seen:
> http://k4che.com/HBR/Cabinet/Cabinet.htm
> 73 k4che
> 
> It looks like my application would need two 1" screws and 6 nuts to get the capacitor stood off the chassis and snugged down tightly, and allow bit of alignment. 73, Scott WA9WFA
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


From smithab11 at comcast.net  Sun Mar 16 20:02:34 2014
From: smithab11 at comcast.net (B. Smith)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2014 20:02:34 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <561F42AD-8AF1-45A8-B53A-E694438F4A38@comcast.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>	<CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>	<6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>	<338664652.20140314200322@earthlink.net>	<563023E5-4E74-459E-B556-257B3FEB0544@comcast.net>	<5323B324.2000805@comcast.net>
	<561F42AD-8AF1-45A8-B53A-E694438F4A38@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <53263B9A.2020402@comcast.net>

that should do the trick be better mount than any "commercial" set.  :-)
That variable capicator mount on several projects over the years just 
about broke me, I finally wised up.   :-)

On 3/16/2014 7:26 PM, Whitebear1122 wrote:
> Thanks Breck for the advice.  I'm looking into it.  I have some 1/8" aluminum strips that will work like you said.  I'm thinking of mounting the capacitor to the top aluminum plate using some 1/4" screws, then stack up three plates and attach the whole shebang to the chassis using standard #6-32 screws of the right length.  Thanks. 73, Scott WA9WFA
>
> On Mar 14, 2014, at 8:55 PM, B. Smith <smithab11 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I highly recommend cutting  several  1/4 inch aluminum sections- - for instance 1/2  inch by 2 inch sections  and use your  hardware to stabilize each end of the variable tuning  capacitor. The 1/4 stock is easy to saw with hand tools and is available at any home supply store. Past experience with a variable  cap mounted with several bolts and using nuts as spacers had resulted in unstable results.   A couple of photos of the variable capacitor and the aluminum spacers can be seen:
>> http://k4che.com/HBR/Cabinet/Cabinet.htm
>> 73 k4che
>>
>> It looks like my application would need two 1" screws and 6 nuts to get the capacitor stood off the chassis and snugged down tightly, and allow bit of alignment. 73, Scott WA9WFA
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> HBR mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>


From waltah at earthlink.net  Sun Mar 16 22:19:06 2014
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2014 22:19:06 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <EBF6582B-2FE6-4354-8F5E-CFDE4F0ED888@comcast.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
	<CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>
	<338664652.20140314200322@earthlink.net>
	<563023E5-4E74-459E-B556-257B3FEB0544@comcast.net>
	<416742481.20140314220731@earthlink.net>
	<EBF6582B-2FE6-4354-8F5E-CFDE4F0ED888@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1465466377.20140316221906@earthlink.net>

Whitebear1122 said:

> I'm thinking of mounting the capacitor to an aluminum plate using
> your two 1/4" screws, then cut several larger pieces and attach the
> whole assembly to the chassis using standard 6-32 1" screws.

When the HBRs were first built, AM was standard and tiny bits of
backlash in a dial were unlikely to be noticed, let alone be
considered a problem. I'm sure that mounting a tuning cap on screws
into an aluminum chassis was good enough and I doubt anyone ever
noticed that expansion of that chassis led to detuning as it rotate
the capacitor frame relative to the shaft attached via the dial to the
front panel.

With SSB almost universal now (unless you want to stick to strictly
vintage round tables) one needs an order of magnitude better stability
and setting precision.

I have two finished HBR projects: One is based on the Heath HR-10B and
uses the original cap which is string drive and mounted flat on a
steel chassis: NO issues with backlash or heat-induced mechanical
tuning on that one, though the string drive slide rule dial is perhaps
a notch less precise than the Eddystone and resetability/resolution
considerably less.

The other is an original design on a heavy aluminum chassis. The
tuning cap is mounted in a 90 degree rotated position on the vertical
surface of a 5" x 4" x 3" Minibox screwed along its flanges at the
rear and near the right side of the main chassis. This SEEMS plenty
rigid and backlash is negligible with the Eddystone dial but at the
start it would tune a couple of kcs on 80 as the chassis got warm. A
'get well' program consisting of measures to keep the chassis cooler
and a bulkhead screwed under the front flange of the box (inside the
chassis) and to the right chassis wall cut that to well under 1 kcs --
tolerable if not great.

Doing that one again I'd think how to mount it to the panel with
little or no connection to the chassis. OR make the rotational
stiffness considerably better (what stresses will result?) OR use a
steel chassis. OR at least mount it with the shaft at the chassis
center so rotation would be minimized.

Aluminum has a much greater temperature coefficient of expansion than
steel. It has many good points but you get shape/dimensional changes
in exchange.

Moral: Mounting the tuning cap isn't as easy as I used to think, if
one wants the full performance that the electronics of these designs
would allow.

I would definitely use something more rigid than corner posts to an
aluminum chassis. Try to visualize how the chassis will change shape
as it heats -- the usual effect would be ballooning of the top surface
-- and how you'll make that a non-event, tuning wise.

Of course such effects are invisible but when you consider that 500kc
is tuned in less than 180 degrees and you want less than 0.1% of that
even on 80M, it doesn't take very much.

Someone with a machine shop setup could put a dial indicator on the
top of a chassis and apply a hair dryer, and convert the result to
rotational degrees and then to kcs, assuming mounting of the cap (say)
25% of the way from left or right edge of the chassis.

I did not at first believe this was an issue, but a few experiments
with a soldering iron tip and an ice cube convinced me otherwise.
Precision instruments like a ham band SSB receiver are tougher than
they look!

Screws will be in the mail tomorrow.

Walt Hutchens
KJ4KV


From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Sat Mar 22 19:37:37 2014
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (Whitebear1122)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 18:37:37 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Mounting
	Screws - Resolved
In-Reply-To: <416742481.20140314220731@earthlink.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
	<CA+uDY2Tzsz=A08tKZUYaCAN=N3+Y=_phP+dAwr6Z-HHYqA+rwQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6DE53604-01F0-4E44-B9A2-1F9B8A1FB161@comcast.net>
	<338664652.20140314200322@earthlink.net>
	<563023E5-4E74-459E-B556-257B3FEB0544@comcast.net>
	<416742481.20140314220731@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1228D515-CFF2-492F-88E8-0D20AC298D85@comcast.net>

My thanks to Walt Hutchens for coming to the rescue on my Eddystone mounting screw problem.  I just received a envelope with the needed 6-40 screws.   I just tried them out in the Eddystone vernier and they are a perfect fit.  Thanks Walt!   I am going to take Brecks advice and use some 1/8" aluminum bar to build up a "platform" for each end of the variable capacitor instead of raising the variable up on the end of screws. 

73, Scott WA9WFA



From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Sun Mar 23 01:26:38 2014
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (Whitebear1122)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 00:26:38 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Eddystone Three Section Variable Capacitor Question
In-Reply-To: <B2458942-48D4-4492-85CD-E68F593B9ACD@plateautel.net>
References: <AA16707E-969C-49D0-82BE-F0EBFA7CC2F4@comcast.net>
	<79D5B2FC-7D04-4D9E-840B-4B64EF0D9DBA@comcast.net>
	<B2458942-48D4-4492-85CD-E68F593B9ACD@plateautel.net>
Message-ID: <12D11D91-64DA-4D4A-8932-60DA29C37549@comcast.net>

Hey James, You were spot on with the 6-40 recommendation.  Walt Hutchins just sent me some #6-40 screws they fit perfect.  Thanks for your advice!  73, Scott WA9WFA
On Mar 14, 2014, at 4:54 PM, James Fuller <james at plateautel.net> wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> You might try 6-40 if the 6-32 seem almost right.
> 
> JamesF
> 
> 
>> On Mar 14, 2014, at 2:48 PM, Whitebear1122 <whitebear1122 at comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
> 
>> Looks like this post was rejected the first time so I'm resending.
> 
>> Almost embarrassed to ask this but what are the threads for the Eddystone three section variable cap that is typically used in the HBR receiver?   I just got back from ACE Hardware and could not find a screw that matched the threads.  It seems like a #6 but the threads aren't right.  I tried both US and metric.  I was planning on mounting the variable cap to the RF sub chassis, make sure everything lines up, then drill the holes for mounting the RF sub chassis on the main chassis.  
>> 
>> On my HBR-13 project, the main chassis is 98% drilled and milled.  The last component arrived today, an 8 section barrier strip that mounts on the rear panel and has connections for antenna, speaker, mute, and and extra pair.  RF sub chassis is all drilled and milled.  BFO chassis left to drill.  I have a plexiglass front panel drilled and milled, the Eddystone slide rule dial mounted, and the panel mounted to the chassis.  I'm figuring another week of last mechanical work and then I can start building.
>> 
>> 73, Scott WA9WFA
> 
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From adrianjamesflynn at gmail.com  Sun Mar 23 05:09:20 2014
From: adrianjamesflynn at gmail.com (Adrian Flynn)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 05:09:20 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Bug in Mailman version 2.1.12
Message-ID: <CAOtbafGdyKxbZnSa1h0f2jS+hX3vAu65rVqpZZeYTAZCi6zdiA@mail.gmail.com>

Tried to register got this response

72/73

Adrian KF7DYU
=======================Bug in Mailman version 2.1.12

We're sorry, we hit a bug!

Please inform the webmaster for this site of this problem. Printing of
traceback and other system information has been explicitly inhibited, but
the webmaster can find this information in the Mailman error logs.

From leecraner at aol.com  Sat Mar 29 12:13:15 2014
From: leecraner at aol.com (Lee Craner)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 12:13:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [HBR] Fwd: [8]
Message-ID: <8D11980ECCD5CA0-1968-5C03@webmail-d300.sysops.aol.com>

Hi there! http://alopeciaandrogenica.es/-your.message?jpuxjsi957638



