From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Wed Mar  2 14:03:09 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2011 19:03:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
In-Reply-To: <4D684A2B.1030509@suddenlink.net>
Message-ID: <2117327813.1691234.1299092589164.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>




I'm looking for a cabinet for an HBR-13 project.? Are there any suggestions for an HBR-13 cabinet?? I doubt if there are any new commercial offerings anymore with a lid for accessing the coils.? I did an internet search the other night and turned up nothing.???Any recommendations for used cabinets?? 



73, Scott WA9WFA

From bear57 at telus.net  Wed Mar  2 16:37:27 2011
From: bear57 at telus.net (Lorne Barber)
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2011 13:37:27 -0800
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
References: <2117327813.1691234.1299092589164.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C598A9C4641E4B8CAFB40E8F2A484BC3@acera2gjrt6tf9>

Scott, if you are handy with wood, you might consider pine shelving material 
available at the local hardware store.
I built one  for a ZL2JJ  regen set. I hinged part of the top to facilitate 
coil changing. I recessed the front top, sides and bottom for the front 
panel,  Looked decent and worked well.
Just a thought.
7 3
Lorne
Ve7box
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <whitebear1122 at comcast.net>
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2011 11:03 AM
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet


>
>
>
> I'm looking for a cabinet for an HBR-13 project. Are there any suggestions 
> for an HBR-13 cabinet? I doubt if there are any new commercial offerings 
> anymore with a lid for accessing the coils. I did an internet search the 
> other night and turned up nothing. Any recommendations for used cabinets?
>
>
>
> 73, Scott WA9WFA
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 


From leecraner at aol.com  Wed Mar  2 17:36:58 2011
From: leecraner at aol.com (leecraner at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2011 17:36:58 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
In-Reply-To: <2117327813.1691234.1299092589164.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CDA74179B27D63-1350-3ACB@webmail-d054.sysops.aol.com>


Unless you're looking for a small footprint, consider the Bud and Hallicrafter's cabinets designed for 19" wide rack mounted gear.  A five unit high (8 3/4") gives you plenty of real estate for the front panel and chassis layout.  These cabinets typically sell for $25-50.

73
Lee WB6SSW






-----Original Message-----
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net
To: HBR Receiver List <hbr at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wed, Mar 2, 2011 12:03 pm
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet




'm looking for a cabinet for an HBR-13 project.  Are there any suggestions for 
n HBR-13 cabinet?  I doubt if there are any new commercial offerings anymore 
ith a lid for accessing the coils.  I did an internet search the other night 
nd turned up nothing.   Any recommendations for used cabinets?  

73, Scott WA9WFA
_____________________________________________________________
BR mailing list
ome: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
elp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
ost: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
lease help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Thu Mar  3 09:45:29 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 14:45:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
In-Reply-To: <627332070.1735358.1299163358590.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <571066576.1735539.1299163529256.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Thanks guys for the cabinet suggestions.? I'd like to go with a metal cabinet rather than wood but I can see the advantages of the wood cabinet.? I'm going to start looking around for a nice metal cabinet that will handle an HBR-16 or 13C.? If anyone has a lead on one I'd appreciate hearing about it.? 



73, Scott WA9WFA 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: leecraner at aol.com 
To: hbr at mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, March 2, 2011 4:36:58 PM 
Subject: Re: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet 


Unless you're looking for a small footprint, consider the Bud and Hallicrafter's cabinets designed for 19" wide rack mounted gear. ?A five unit high (8 3/4") gives you plenty of real estate for the front panel and chassis layout. ?These cabinets typically sell for $25-50. 

73 
Lee WB6SSW 



From Kris at merschrod.net  Thu Mar  3 10:32:55 2011
From: Kris at merschrod.net (Kris Merschrod)
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2011 10:32:55 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
In-Reply-To: <571066576.1735539.1299163529256.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <571066576.1735539.1299163529256.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F8D07481A053407581AA8E95FD061F52@Staples0258PC>

Scott,

I recently sold a HBR cabinet, chasis, and a nice dial and all.  Then on 
eBay there was a nice chassis, panel and dial, but seemed to be missing the 
rest of the cabinet.  With a little patience and constant looking over eBay 
you should be able to come up with the makings.  HamFests are probably a 
good place to look too.  My feeling is that many hams tried their hand at 
HBR in that era and so their "artifacts" are out there.

Good luck with thr search,

Kris KM2KM


Merschrod
123 Warren Road
Ithaca, NY 14850
www.merschrod.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <whitebear1122 at comcast.net>
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet


>
>
> Thanks guys for the cabinet suggestions. I'd like to go with a metal 
> cabinet rather than wood but I can see the advantages of the wood cabinet. 
> I'm going to start looking around for a nice metal cabinet that will 
> handle an HBR-16 or 13C. If anyone has a lead on one I'd appreciate 
> hearing about it.
>
>
>
> 73, Scott WA9WFA
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: leecraner at aol.com
> To: hbr at mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Wednesday, March 2, 2011 4:36:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
>
>
> Unless you're looking for a small footprint, consider the Bud and 
> Hallicrafter's cabinets designed for 19" wide rack mounted gear. A five 
> unit high (8 3/4") gives you plenty of real estate for the front panel and 
> chassis layout. These cabinets typically sell for $25-50.
>
> 73
> Lee WB6SSW
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 


From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Thu Mar  3 13:52:13 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 18:52:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] HBR Question
In-Reply-To: <571066576.1735539.1299163529256.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1667796485.1752871.1299178333569.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



This has probably been asked a million times so I'm sorry to ask again. 



I'm looking for some HBR opinions.? ?I'm looking to build my own HBR receiver and I'd like to hear your opinion on the performance of the various models.?? If you were building a good performance HBR which one would you consider??? I see the HBR 14, 16, 8, 11, 12,? 13C, and perhaps you can't go wrong with any of them. 



Is there one that stands out in terms of performance and stability?? My long term plan is to build my own receiver, transmitter, amplifier, for cw and enjoy using my own HB equipment.? 



I currently own two HBR's, an HBR-16 and an HBR-13C, both built by someone else.? The 16 works pretty good, the 13C work very well!? I'd still like to build my own.? One option is to strip one of the HBR's down for parts, replace the 50 yr old caps and resistors, rebuild it in the existing chassis/cabinet.? I don't know if I can technically call it my own homebrew receiver though.? Maybe I can.? Another option is to strip one down and rebuild it in my own punched chassis.? And the last option is to find new parts or a junker or uncompleted HBR and build a new one.? So that is where I am at the moment. 



I have the 3 section variable cap, given to me by a friend with the comment to 'build an HBR with it".? I think the IF transformers and BFO transformer will be the most difficult of all to find.? 



Appreciate your comments or advice. 



73, Scott WA9WFA 




From daileyservices at qwest.net  Thu Mar  3 14:14:15 2011
From: daileyservices at qwest.net (TC Dailey)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 12:14:15 -0700
Subject: [HBR] Can I call it mine?
References: <1667796485.1752871.1299178333569.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DE46F1E460E34898A3D281E351406AF0@w0eaj>

Any time you put YOUR soul into something - it becomes YOURS.  Yes, replace 
the caps, replace any resistors that are out of tolerance, "shotgun" all the 
solder joints, clean everything (including tube sockets with a tiny bit of 
DeOxit) and tighten all hardware.  The basic circuit is TERRIFIC and as my 
HBR-11 still provides "readable cw" at .045 uv @ 75m - I'd say that's just 
fine.  I've often thought of replacing the front panel (the control holes 
aren't exactly in a straight line), but ya'know - it has character and a 
proud history - why mess that up?

Tom - W0EAJ 


From ke9xq at charter.net  Thu Mar  3 14:19:28 2011
From: ke9xq at charter.net (William Wood)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 13:19:28 -0600
Subject: [HBR] HBR  Cabinet Idea  : )
Message-ID: <61F7260C-B809-4B95-8D4E-43B9B0BB733B@charter.net>

Greetings
    I have the cabinet I need, but have been looking at the
counter top convection type ovens, even some Microwave
ovens would or could make a good cabinet.  A lot of space
wasted in a microwave enclosure, but a little work with a
dremel tool might overcome that one.  You can find those
counter top ovens left and right at the recycle center and
places like Good Will, Good Steward and Salvation Army type
stores for free or 3 to $10 so think of the possibilities with
those items.  I did buy one for a possible cabinet for a heavy
duty power supply housing...   Just food for thought.
73
Bill



If the grass is greener on the
other side of the fence, then
maybe you ain't watering
your own lawn...

Favorite Yahoo Groups...

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OTR_and_Music/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Radio_Library/

And check out Tennessee Bill's site at:

http://otrshareandtrade.com/in.php?ID=12
and his personal site at:

http://TennesseeBillsOTR.com

Don't forget

http://www.archive.org/index.php

and one or two that maybe don't
want to be listed : )
And two dozen or more others
I won't tell you about unless you ask.


From daileyservices at qwest.net  Thu Mar  3 14:29:34 2011
From: daileyservices at qwest.net (TC Dailey)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 12:29:34 -0700
Subject: [HBR] Cabinet Idea
References: <61F7260C-B809-4B95-8D4E-43B9B0BB733B@charter.net>
Message-ID: <14366133D504493AA4FB5ADEBAFC9C65@w0eaj>

I love the "just food for thought" comment, concerning microwave oven 
cabinets.

Tom 


From windy10605 at juno.com  Thu Mar  3 14:54:30 2011
From: windy10605 at juno.com (Kees & Sandy)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 19:54:30 GMT
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
Message-ID: <20110303.135430.10396.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com>

Scott,
Funny, but those questions were also asked of Ted. People were always trying to get him to say which was "best". In one of his notes, as I recall, he said the later HBR-11/12 was just as good, maybe better, than the earlier units because they used the latest parts which had gotten better over time (like the IFs) and, of course, smaller. Using the nice Eddystone 898 dial really wasn't his idea, but he had to admit that it was a great dial, but required a sub chassis.  
If I were building one today I would not build an HBR-14 or HBR-16 ....unless "that is what you built in the 60's". Choosing between a HBR-16 and HBR-13C, the HBR-13C wins hands down. If you don't have an Eddystone 898, the Eddystone 598 is much better than any of the National dials, and if you have a National dial, replace the vernier drive with a Ball Brothers drive (as I recommend in my articles).....you will be amazed at the improvement. As you can acertain, I think the human interface (tuning) is one of the more important aspects of a receiver. I still think the tuning drive out of a junk $10 BC-221 is the best ever but they are difficult to implement into a receiver and not "HBR".  
You are right in that the IFs are very difficult to obtain today unless you use ARC-5 85KHz IFs which are relatively plentiful at swapmeets and very good quality. You can also add a complete digital tuning system like the "Si570 Controller", but that is definitely not "HBR" ....but they sure are accurate and stable. Use it for frequency tuning and make the other 2 capacitors (mixer and RF) a preselector tuning function. I know, .............HBR lightning will soon strike. 
Good luck on your project.
73 Kees K5BCQ

---------- Original Message ----------
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net
To: Kees & Sandy <windy10605 at juno.com>
Subject: Re: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 18:39:39 +0000 (UTC)


Hey Kees, Thanks for your reply.  Sure, let me know what sizes those are.  Since I have you one the line, I'd like to ask the question of the century that you hear all the time.   
 
What HBR do you in your opinion think is the best one?  Or are they all fine?  
 
I'm trying to decide whether to build an HBR-16 or an HBR-13C.  Then there is the 11's and 12's and 14's that I don't have any feel about either.  
 
I'd want to build one that is great for cw and can become my main cw receiver.    Any opinions?
 
I currently own two HBR's, an HBR16 and an HBR13C.  The 16 works pretty good and the 13C works really well.   I want to build my own HBR though, not just own someone elses.  I have a couple of options.  One is to take one of the receivers down to parts, replace the 50 yr old caps and resistors, and rebuild it in the existing chassis/cabinet.  I don't necessarily think it will feel like my hb.  Another option is to strip one down for parts, punch my own new chassis and cabinet, then that one is clearly my hb build.  And the last option is to find all new parts and just sell the two HBR's.
 
I have the 3 section variable capacitor, given to my by a friend who said 'build one'.  I think the IF transformers and BFO are going to be the most difficult to find.  All the rest of the parts are still easily available.  
 
73, Scott WA9WFA  
 

From windy10605 at juno.com  Thu Mar  3 15:02:12 2011
From: windy10605 at juno.com (Kees & Sandy)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 20:02:12 GMT
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
Message-ID: <20110303.140212.10396.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com>

By the way, you can readily make 100KHz IF transformers from 262KHz IF transformers which were used in many car radios. You have to change capacitor values and experiment with the coil spacing to make it as sharp as you want .....a spectrum analyzer comes in very handy. It can be done .....but it's not quite as good as an original Millen IF.
Some of that info is on the website.
73 Kees K5BCQ

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Kees & Sandy" <windy10605 at juno.com>
To: whitebear1122 at comcast.net
Cc: hbr at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 19:54:30 GMT

Scott,
Funny, but those questions were also asked of Ted. People were always trying to get him to say which was "best". In one of his notes, as I recall, he said the later HBR-11/12 was just as good, maybe better, than the earlier units because they used the latest parts which had gotten better over time (like the IFs) and, of course, smaller. Using the nice Eddystone 898 dial really wasn't his idea, but he had to admit that it was a great dial, but required a sub chassis.  
If I were building one today I would not build an HBR-14 or HBR-16 ....unless "that is what you built in the 60's". Choosing between a HBR-16 and HBR-13C, the HBR-13C wins hands down. If you don't have an Eddystone 898, the Eddystone 598 is much better than any of the National dials, and if you have a National dial, replace the vernier drive with a Ball Brothers drive (as I recommend in my articles).....you will be amazed at the improvement. As you can acertain, I think the human interface (tuning) is one of the more important aspects of a receiver. I still think the tuning drive out of a junk $10 BC-221 is the best ever but they are difficult to implement into a receiver and not "HBR".  
You are right in that the IFs are very difficult to obtain today unless you use ARC-5 85KHz IFs which are relatively plentiful at swapmeets and very good quality. You can also add a complete digital tuning system like the "Si570 Controller", but that is definitely not "HBR" ....but they sure are accurate and stable. Use it for frequency tuning and make the other 2 capacitors (mixer and RF) a preselector tuning function. I know, .............HBR lightning will soon strike. 
Good luck on your project.
73 Kees K5BCQ

---------- Original Message ----------
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net
To: Kees & Sandy <windy10605 at juno.com>
Subject: Re: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 18:39:39 +0000 (UTC)


Hey Kees, Thanks for your reply.  Sure, let me know what sizes those are.  Since I have you one the line, I'd like to ask the question of the century that you hear all the time.   

What HBR do you in your opinion think is the best one?  Or are they all fine?  

I'm trying to decide whether to build an HBR-16 or an HBR-13C.  Then there is the 11's and 12's and 14's that I don't have any feel about either.  

I'd want to build one that is great for cw and can become my main cw receiver.    Any opinions?

I currently own two HBR's, an HBR16 and an HBR13C.  The 16 works pretty good and the 13C works really well.   I want to build my own HBR though, not just own someone elses.  I have a couple of options.  One is to take one of the receivers down to parts, replace the 50 yr old caps and resistors, and rebuild it in the existing chassis/cabinet.  I don't necessarily think it will feel like my hb.  Another option is to strip one down for parts, punch my own new chassis and cabinet, then that one is clearly my hb build.  And the last option is to find all new parts and just sell the two HBR's.

I have the 3 section variable capacitor, given to my by a friend who said 'build one'.  I think the IF transformers and BFO are going to be the most difficult to find.  All the rest of the parts are still easily available.  

73, Scott WA9WFA  

______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


From bjtatum1 at att.net  Thu Mar  3 15:24:15 2011
From: bjtatum1 at att.net (Byron Tatum)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 12:24:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [HBR] 6BE6 Mixer Question
Message-ID: <294912.22605.qm@web180104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hello-
??? I apologize for being a little off topic for this list, but I posted this 
question on the Hammarlund list and it does not appear to be real active at this 
time. I know there are a lot of real knowledgable folks here.
??? My question is in regards to the application of AVC to the signal grid of a 
6BE6 converter tube. I know there are receivers that function fine employing 
this, but I believe I have a problem in my HQ-180. There are two signs of a 
problem - one is when listening to SSB when the RF Gain knob?is changed there is 
a shift in frequency, the other is with strong AVC action there is a slight 
warbling.
??? I saw on one fellows site regarding the HQ-180 where he mentions this 
problem, and disconnected the AVC from the 6BE6 converter (455 KC converting 
down to 60 KC). I have studied doing this, would it be as simple as just 
disconnecting the AVC from the signal grid? In the circuit for this particular 
converter, if the AVC is disconnected from the signal grid (Pin #7)?there is no 
DC ground for it. I would imagine that I would need to provide a DC ground path, 
via a resistor or possibly RF Choke? I looked at the 6BE6 converter circuit in a 
Drake 2B and there is a DC path to chassis through the RF transformer feeding 
the signal grid, with no AVC applied to it.
??? While speaking of the HQ-180 does anyone have any additional information 
regarding improvements, updates, etc? I performed the Dallas Lankford AVC 
modification in mine and it was very much worth the trouble, it was simple in 
that one resistor was bridged and a capacitor added. I read where Dallas 
published a compendum of HQ-180 manual additions but he has become hard to 
contact now and does not give out his email adr. My HQ-180 has the verier tuning 
update (from factory) and I noticed a website where this update instruction set 
was provided.
??? I have always wanted a nice HQ-180, when I tested for my novice license in 
the late 1960's the Ham here in my hometown?that I had introduced myself to had 
the HQ-180 / HX-50 combo. I had never saw any of this gear in person, but had 
all of the Hammarlund brochures. I thought the HQ-180 had to be the ultimate 
receiver back then. The OM, however, was frustrated with all of the hassles, etc 
and one day I went over to visit and all of the Hammarlund stuff was gone and a 
Drake TR-3 was there, and he was much more content. But, I enjoy tinkering with 
this old receiver, and have upgraded it to the separate filament transformer for 
HF Osc. and first mixer as done in HQ-180A. I removed the 5U4 rectifier and 
mounted a nice mil-spec 8H. choke in its spot and went to solid state diodes, I 
can tell the difference in the heat of power transformer. I replaced the filter 
capacitor with one of much greater value in the 3 sections for B+. I wanted to 
lower the B+ some, and have mine around 225 volts now downstream of both chokes. 
After I finish burning in the set for a good while I plan to go through an 
alignment, the RF portion looks reasonably close as of now?but I believe the BFO 
is not quite spot-on with IF.
??? Enough of my rambling, if anyone has any info on this receiver I sure would 
like to hear from you.
??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? Thanks, Byron WA5THJ???

From daileyservices at qwest.net  Thu Mar  3 15:56:14 2011
From: daileyservices at qwest.net (TC Dailey)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 13:56:14 -0700
Subject: [HBR] HQ-180
References: <294912.22605.qm@web180104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9003EF67C3954EF1A07E71A1A7E34699@w0eaj>

Ahhh, but how's the regulation?  If adjusting the RF gain shifts your 
frequency (BFO?), perhaps the supply voltages are not staying where they 
belong.

TC 


From tshoppa at wmata.com  Thu Mar  3 16:11:40 2011
From: tshoppa at wmata.com (Shoppa, Tim)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 16:11:40 -0500
Subject: [HBR] 6BE6 Mixer Question
In-Reply-To: <294912.22605.qm@web180104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <294912.22605.qm@web180104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B136EDE3DF5EC441B6F08E0A7AB872450BB0D13257@EX2K7-CMS-1.wmata.local>

Many fine receivers from the "pre-SSB era" exhibit a frequency shift under AGC/AVC action. (The HQ-180 because it has a true product detector actually fares better in SSB than many other receivers.)

Hammarlund dropped the ball a little bit because in most of their receivers in this era, the 6BE6 is under AGC action. The SP-600 will do the same. Drake as you point out was more cognizant of the gotchas. Instead of using pentagrid mixers, Heath often used TV-type triode-pentode mixers (especially 6EA8) in many of their 60's rigs to good advantage as mixers.

Some swear up and down that the 6BY6 will be better than the 6BE6. Others swear the other way :-).

My solution was always to turn off the AGC if the warble bothered me. Although it was sometimes irritating that the RF gain knob worked as RIT even then. In fact, a lot of things about AGC bother me. Loud signals should be loud and weak signals should be quiet. Just my two cents :-). At least the HQ-180 made the right choice of having a true product detector.

-----Original Message-----
From: hbr-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:hbr-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Byron Tatum
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 3:24 PM
To: HBR at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [HBR] 6BE6 Mixer Question

Hello-
??? I apologize for being a little off topic for this list, but I posted this 
question on the Hammarlund list and it does not appear to be real active at this 
time. I know there are a lot of real knowledgable folks here.
??? My question is in regards to the application of AVC to the signal grid of a 
6BE6 converter tube. I know there are receivers that function fine employing 
this, but I believe I have a problem in my HQ-180. There are two signs of a 
problem - one is when listening to SSB when the RF Gain knob?is changed there is 
a shift in frequency, the other is with strong AVC action there is a slight 
warbling.
??? I saw on one fellows site regarding the HQ-180 where he mentions this 
problem, and disconnected the AVC from the 6BE6 converter (455 KC converting 
down to 60 KC). I have studied doing this, would it be as simple as just 
disconnecting the AVC from the signal grid? In the circuit for this particular 
converter, if the AVC is disconnected from the signal grid (Pin #7)?there is no 
DC ground for it. I would imagine that I would need to provide a DC ground path, 
via a resistor or possibly RF Choke? I looked at the 6BE6 converter circuit in a 
Drake 2B and there is a DC path to chassis through the RF transformer feeding 
the signal grid, with no AVC applied to it.
??? While speaking of the HQ-180 does anyone have any additional information 
regarding improvements, updates, etc? I performed the Dallas Lankford AVC 
modification in mine and it was very much worth the trouble, it was simple in 
that one resistor was bridged and a capacitor added. I read where Dallas 
published a compendum of HQ-180 manual additions but he has become hard to 
contact now and does not give out his email adr. My HQ-180 has the verier tuning 
update (from factory) and I noticed a website where this update instruction set 
was provided.
??? I have always wanted a nice HQ-180, when I tested for my novice license in 
the late 1960's the Ham here in my hometown?that I had introduced myself to had 
the HQ-180 / HX-50 combo. I had never saw any of this gear in person, but had 
all of the Hammarlund brochures. I thought the HQ-180 had to be the ultimate 
receiver back then. The OM, however, was frustrated with all of the hassles, etc 
and one day I went over to visit and all of the Hammarlund stuff was gone and a 
Drake TR-3 was there, and he was much more content. But, I enjoy tinkering with 
this old receiver, and have upgraded it to the separate filament transformer for 
HF Osc. and first mixer as done in HQ-180A. I removed the 5U4 rectifier and 
mounted a nice mil-spec 8H. choke in its spot and went to solid state diodes, I 
can tell the difference in the heat of power transformer. I replaced the filter 
capacitor with one of much greater value in the 3 sections for B+. I wanted to 
lower the B+ some, and have mine around 225 volts now downstream of both chokes. 
After I finish burning in the set for a good while I plan to go through an 
alignment, the RF portion looks reasonably close as of now?but I believe the BFO 
is not quite spot-on with IF.
??? Enough of my rambling, if anyone has any info on this receiver I sure would 
like to hear from you.
??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? Thanks, Byron WA5THJ???
______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

From waltah at earthlink.net  Thu Mar  3 17:31:15 2011
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 17:31:15 -0500
Subject: [HBR] 6BE6 Mixer Question
In-Reply-To: <B136EDE3DF5EC441B6F08E0A7AB872450BB0D13257@EX2K7-CMS-1.wmata.local>
References: <294912.22605.qm@web180104.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<B136EDE3DF5EC441B6F08E0A7AB872450BB0D13257@EX2K7-CMS-1.wmata.local>
Message-ID: <863492533.20110303173115@earthlink.net>

Tim said:
> Loud signals should be loud and weak signals should be quiet.

That's a matter of having the right amount of AGC action.  While
normal AGC cannot actually hold the volume flat, a set with too many
controlled stages can hold it flatter than you'd like, so that the
'ear test' (as above) doesn't work very well.  I have a USN SRR-13
that controls maybe 5 stages?  Definitely too much.

It is also possible to use feed-forward AGC: You control (say) three
previous stages (to the detector) and one stage following.  This will
get you an absolutely flat or maybe even a falling AGC characteristic.
(Loud signals could be lower volume than weak ones.)  The only
receiver I know of that did this was also military and I cannot
remember the number right now.

Rather disconcerting: I'm like Tim -- very strong signals should be
louder.

Mixers generally shouldn't be controlled.  You can decouple the
oscillator so detuning doesn't occur but you've still got the problem
of reduced crossmodulation performance.  In a home brew receiver
without an RF stage, however, an AGC controlled mixer can work okay
since the signals at the mixer will be much smaller than with a
preceding stage.

Walt Hutchens
KJ4KV



From stutzt-allenk at att.net  Thu Mar  3 18:54:05 2011
From: stutzt-allenk at att.net (stutzt-allenk at att.net)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 15:54:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [HBR] HBR  Cabinet Idea  : )
In-Reply-To: <61F7260C-B809-4B95-8D4E-43B9B0BB733B@charter.net>
References: <61F7260C-B809-4B95-8D4E-43B9B0BB733B@charter.net>
Message-ID: <767043.70536.qm@web180711.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi Guys - 
Rarely post here - but I had to jump in here.  I've been eying my Panasonic 
microwaves' brushed stainless cabinet for the past six months - perfect size for 
my rack mount NC-300...  No more space on the rack and an easy fit in that 
microwave cabinet with a little wood in-fill...  Need to hit an E-waste recycle 
event if it doesn't die soon...
Tom





________________________________
From: William Wood <ke9xq at charter.net>
To: HBR Receiver List <hbr at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 11:19:28 AM
Subject: [HBR] HBR  Cabinet Idea  : )

Greetings
    I have the cabinet I need, but have been looking at the
counter top convection type ovens, even some Microwave
ovens would or could make a good cabinet.  A lot of space
wasted in a microwave enclosure, but a little work with a
dremel tool might overcome that one.  You can find those
counter top ovens left and right at the recycle center and
places like Good Will, Good Steward and Salvation Army type
stores for free or 3 to $10 so think of the possibilities with
those items.  I did buy one for a possible cabinet for a heavy
duty power supply housing...   Just food for thought.
73
Bill



If the grass is greener on the
other side of the fence, then
maybe you ain't watering
your own lawn...

Favorite Yahoo Groups...

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OTR_and_Music/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Radio_Library/

And check out Tennessee Bill's site at:

http://otrshareandtrade.com/in.php?ID=12
and his personal site at:

http://TennesseeBillsOTR.com

Don't forget

http://www.archive.org/index.php

and one or two that maybe don't
want to be listed : )
And two dozen or more others
I won't tell you about unless you ask.

______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

From waltah at earthlink.net  Thu Mar  3 21:46:35 2011
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 21:46:35 -0500
Subject: [HBR] HBR  Cabinet Idea  : )
In-Reply-To: <767043.70536.qm@web180711.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <61F7260C-B809-4B95-8D4E-43B9B0BB733B@charter.net>
	<767043.70536.qm@web180711.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1915450602.20110303214635@earthlink.net>

> I've been eying my Panasonic microwaves' brushed stainless cabinet
> for the past six months - perfect size for my rack mount NC-300...

AND it comes with a free 1 kw high voltage transformer -- about 2200
volts if I remember rightly.  With the slight disadvantage that one
end of the HV winding is probably internally grounded.

Walt
KJ4KV


From ke9xq at charter.net  Thu Mar  3 22:13:30 2011
From: ke9xq at charter.net (William Wood)
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 21:13:30 -0600
Subject: [HBR] HBR  Cabinet Idea  : )
In-Reply-To: <1915450602.20110303214635@earthlink.net>
References: <61F7260C-B809-4B95-8D4E-43B9B0BB733B@charter.net>
	<767043.70536.qm@web180711.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<1915450602.20110303214635@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <FEF8386D-EB6B-42D1-A51F-645760D5F327@charter.net>

Yes Grounded  BUT
I've taken a dozen of these babies
apart, and that ground is through a
rivet into the laminates that come
off with a chisel.  I've not measured
things out after that.  My goal was to
do three of these sans HV winding
and rewound for heavy duty low
voltage for a possible home build
welder...

Think I will put one or two aside and
do some measuring,  Can't remember
if there were two lugs in the HV side ???
Should be, but will have to look at them
again.  There's got to be some good
uses for these guys : )

73
Bill


On Mar 3, 2011, at 8:46 PM, Walt Hutchens wrote:

>> I've been eying my Panasonic microwaves' brushed stainless cabinet
>> for the past six months - perfect size for my rack mount NC-300...
>
> AND it comes with a free 1 kw high voltage transformer -- about 2200
> volts if I remember rightly.  With the slight disadvantage that one
> end of the HV winding is probably internally grounded.
>
> Walt
> KJ4KV
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

If the grass is greener on the
other side of the fence, then
maybe you ain't watering
your own lawn...

Favorite Yahoo Groups...

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OTR_and_Music/

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Radio_Library/

And check out Tennessee Bill's site at:

http://otrshareandtrade.com/in.php?ID=12
and his personal site at:

http://TennesseeBillsOTR.com

Don't forget

http://www.archive.org/index.php

and one or two that maybe don't
want to be listed : )
And two dozen or more others
I won't tell you about unless you ask.


From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Wed Mar  9 22:32:22 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 03:32:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] Want to Buy Parts for an HBR
In-Reply-To: <F8D07481A053407581AA8E95FD061F52@Staples0258PC>
Message-ID: <230579086.2106011.1299727942631.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Want to buy some Miller IF transformers and parts for an HBR receiver project. I'm looking to build an HBR-13 from scratch. Would you please look in your junk box and help me out? I am looking forward to building my own radio and would appreciate your help. I put out a similar post last year around this time, had a parts HBR opportunity at the ready but I had to back off because of a huge impending layoff at work that luckily survived. I am ready to try again. 

(2) Miller 1730 1800 Kc IF transformer 
(4) Miller 1709 or 1710 10 KC IF transformer 
(1) Miller 1711 100 Kc BFO 

Junker or uncompleted HBR receiver for parts 
Eddystone slide rule dial 
National HRO gear box that is inline rather than right angle 
BC453 radio or ARC5 R23 190 Kc - 550 Kc receiver for a Q5'er project or to get the 100 Kc IF's 

Thanks very much! 73, Scott WA9WFA 

From k2glo at jkasystems.com  Thu Mar 10 01:45:49 2011
From: k2glo at jkasystems.com (Bob Deuel)
Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 22:45:49 -0800
Subject: [HBR] Want to Buy Parts for an HBR
References: <230579086.2106011.1299727942631.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <98065B2239894EA1A376C292F8AD743F@bdeuel64>

Hello Scott:

Hope someone comes through with the parts you desire.

If not, there is some light at the end of the tunnel within the next month 
or so.

I plan to launch on eBay a HBR-13C parts package that will include all the 
Miller coils you mentioned, the 1710kHz and 3500kHz crystals, a Miller 2102 
variable capacitor, all the tubes, resistors, capacitors, controls, 
transformers, knobs, tube sockets, jacks, etc. The package will also include 
an unused lift lid cabinet, main and sub chassis and the coveted 898 
Eddystone dial. The package will not have the plug-in coil components. It 
should be an excellent start for someone desiring to build the HBR-13C from 
scratch.

The launch date for this package will be sometime in the first part of 
April. I am choosing to put it on eBay so everybody who is interested in 
making the HBR-13C will have a fair and equal chance at obtaining the 
package of parts.

In the meantime, I will be listing a pair of NIB Miller #1731 1610kHz 
coupling coils on eBay. These coils were used in some of the earlier 
versions of the HBR. I understand that Miller manufactured these coils 
specifically for the HBR.

So if you do not have any luck obtaining the parts right now, you may want 
to watch eBay the first part of April.

73, Bob, k2glo






----- Original Message ----- 
From: <whitebear1122 at comcast.net>
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2011 7:32 PM
Subject: [HBR] Want to Buy Parts for an HBR


> Want to buy some Miller IF transformers and parts for an HBR receiver 
> project. I'm looking to build an HBR-13 from scratch. Would you please 
> look in your junk box and help me out? I am looking forward to building my 
> own radio and would appreciate your help. I put out a similar post last 
> year around this time, had a parts HBR opportunity at the ready but I had 
> to back off because of a huge impending layoff at work that luckily 
> survived. I am ready to try again.
>
> (2) Miller 1730 1800 Kc IF transformer
> (4) Miller 1709 or 1710 10 KC IF transformer
> (1) Miller 1711 100 Kc BFO
>
> Junker or uncompleted HBR receiver for parts
> Eddystone slide rule dial
> National HRO gear box that is inline rather than right angle
> BC453 radio or ARC5 R23 190 Kc - 550 Kc receiver for a Q5'er project or to 
> get the 100 Kc IF's
>
> Thanks very much! 73, Scott WA9WFA
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 


From bjtatum1 at att.net  Thu Mar 10 08:45:38 2011
From: bjtatum1 at att.net (Byron Tatum)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 05:45:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [HBR] HBR Receiver Parts
Message-ID: <936428.36440.qm@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hello-
??? Just some notes of mine on?HBR IF's and components:
??? ??? 1. For the low freq IF's, and a BFO coil.?the 85 KC IF's from the 
190-500 KC ARC-5 receiver?(BC-453) are hard to beat. These are some of the ??? 
??? ??? ??? highest quality IF's made, plus they have adjustable coupling. There 
is a lot of documentation on these and they are readily available and 
inexpensive. The IF's ??? ??? from the R-11A are the nicest 85 KC ones around 
(silver plated capacitors), however the R-11A does not have the matching 85 KC 
BFO coil like the BC-453 unit does. A scanned copy of the Ham Radio Mag article 
(from the ARC-5 site, link from Glowbugs site) concerning all of the ARC-5 IF's 
and coils is immensely useful.
??? ??? 2. For the 1600 KC IF's use the 1410 KC IF's from the 1.5 -3.0 MC ARC-5. 
These are easily modified to raise the frequency.
??? ??? 3. I have not pursued aquiring carbon composition resistors exclusively. 
They are good to have for certain applicvations but I find their values have 
shifted upwards in a lot of cases, but I realize they can be baked and the 
moisture driven out. The audio folks have driven their price up terribly.
??? ??? 4. Check with Unadilla, who aquired James Millen parts, he still had 
some of the James Millen IF transformers. There were some nice 1600 KC ones last 
time I checked, not sure of other frequencies but did have 5.0 MC,?455 KC?and 50 
KC at one time, plus some BFO coils.
??????????? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? Byron WA5THJ

From waltah at earthlink.net  Thu Mar 10 12:55:07 2011
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 12:55:07 -0500
Subject: [HBR] HBR Receiver Parts
In-Reply-To: <936428.36440.qm@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <936428.36440.qm@web180105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1584197868.20110310125507@earthlink.net>

> 2. For the 1600 KC IF's use the 1410 KC IF's from the 1.5 -3.0 MC ARC-5.
> These are easily modified to raise the frequency.

That's 1415 kcs, from the 3-6 Mcs ARC-5 receiver. R-26 I think? Or the
BC-454 of SCR-274N.

I second the comments on the 85 kcs IF and BFO coils: They're hard to
beat for quality and really need no modification -- you just pick the
other frequencies accordingly. It is best to get a set from one
receiver if possible because there are slight differences in the
different model command receivers that may require tweaking of fixed
caps to get all the cans on the exact same frequency, otherwise.

Walt Hutchens
KJ4KV




From windy10605 at juno.com  Thu Mar 10 14:10:07 2011
From: windy10605 at juno.com (Kees & Sandy)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 19:10:07 GMT
Subject: [HBR] ARC-5 coils
Message-ID: <20110310.131007.12825.1@webmail04.dca.untd.com>

I just went out to look at my military IF stock and have more than I can use. I used to pull them out of every Q5er I found (and others). I don't know what the going rate is $10 each postpaid ?
I have seven 85KHz IFs and five 1415KHz IFs available. I also came across 3 "nasty" looking 6pin Amphenol coil forms which I'll throw in for free if you want something else. There is also a 
"good" condition BC-342 ? (not the BC-348, the earlier one for $150).
The shop is too full. 
73 Kees K5BCQ 

From smithab11 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 14:26:52 2011
From: smithab11 at comcast.net (B Smith)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 14:26:52 -0500
Subject: [HBR] BC-453 IF Coils
In-Reply-To: <20110310.131007.12825.1@webmail04.dca.untd.com>
References: <20110310.131007.12825.1@webmail04.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <5939871B37D14E8BAE362DA10317856E@Dell560>

My  notes, photos, testing etc. on BC-453 IF coils 
can be found at:
(http://k4che.com/HBR/IF%20Coil%20Pages%20and%20Photos/IF%20Coil%20Selection.htm)


73

Breck k4che


 

From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 10 14:38:35 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 19:38:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] BC-453 IF Coils
In-Reply-To: <857190845.2139527.1299785842774.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <769968255.2139602.1299785915942.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>




Wow, Thanks Breck for what is probably the finest discussion I've seen on using BC-453/R23 IF coils.? At first I was under the impression that those IF's were considered inferior to the Miller parts.? Thanks to you and Breck and Kees and others for correcting that misconception. 



If anyone is having trouble accessing the page using Brecks URL, remove the ")" at the end of the address 



http://k4che.com/HBR/IF%20Coil%20Pages%20and%20Photos/IF%20Coil%20Selection.htm 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "B Smith" <smithab11 at comcast.net> 
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net> 
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 1:26:52 PM 
Subject: [HBR] BC-453 IF Coils 

My ?notes, photos, testing etc. on BC-453 IF coils 
can be found at: 
(http://k4che.com/HBR/IF%20Coil%20Pages%20and%20Photos/IF%20Coil%20Selection.htm) 


73 

Breck k4che 


? 

______________________________________________________________ 
HBR mailing list 
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr 
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm 
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net 

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net 
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

From rwayne at vnet.net  Thu Mar 10 17:41:09 2011
From: rwayne at vnet.net (Richard & Donna Wayne)
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 17:41:09 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Miller 50 kc Coils ?
Message-ID: <B8C6D1FB0492482589AB579CD22CCBE1@owner888c206e9>

Hello HBR Builders,

While looking at my stock of parts (junk box) today I found a set of Miller 50 KC coils.

I have 3 Miller #1884 50 KC coils and 1 Miller # 1884 BFO coil 48-52 KC.

All have solder small amount of solder residue on the lugs.

Are these of interest to HBR builders?

73
Richard W4LN

From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Sat Mar 12 09:14:49 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 14:14:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] THanks for Offers of Parts and Opinions
In-Reply-To: <1233695450.2228310.1299937414019.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <331224874.2229067.1299939289414.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Thanks guys for your on-list of off-list emails with suggestions, recommendations, opinions, and parts.? I appreciate it.?? 



Two? guys emailed offering a junker or?rough ?HBR for sale or trade .? Those emails are on my computer at work so I'll get back to you Monday.? I don't know anything about them yet so maybe those?could be great parts units for my project ? 



Several guys emailed with offers for 85 Kc IF's, thank you very much, and I will get some, so the IF's will be taken care of.? No one had the Miller IF's and I posted the WTB to several lists.? For some reason I had gotten the impression that the ARC-5 IF's were nowhere as good as the Miller IF's, so I sought the Millers out first .? Thanks for straightening me out on that misconception. 



Breck's fabulous webpage shows how he interfaced to the 85 Kc ARC-5 IF's using banana plugs.? Looks straightforward.? I was thinking that maybe a Delrin disk or plastic poker chip could be drilled to hold the banana plugs.? Or just solderinig directly to the banana pins would be fine too. 



I see Hammond has a?suitable 14"x10"x3"?aluminum chassis.? I was thinking of NOT putting the power supply on the chassis,?and instead?put it in a separate speaker box.? That would?remove alot of heat and weight from the?radio.?? I saw one members HBR where he used a Charlier Byers aluminum chassis kit.? The kit has a removeable?chassis top, making it alot easier to drill on and work on.? I see he has 0.063" thick?AND 0.080" chassis kits.? Gads that 0.080" thick chassis would be built like a tank.? I do need to buy some chassis punches.? I see them moderately priced on Ebay.?? I don't have a drill press, and I do dislike the hole quality and inaccuracy ?of my hand drilling.? I may need to buy a small drill press. 



I have a question for you metal benders.? How do you shear or cut , and bend the alunimum shielding or supports that you make?? 



I've been noodling over which HBR to build.? Based on recommendations from others here, and my own readings on Kees website and the W6HHT HBR CD, I am narrowing it down to either the HBR-16 or HBR-11/12.?? I don't think I can go wrong with any of the HBR designs.? I'm just thinking the 16 or 11/12 would be a good one for me and my level of (or lack of)?expertise. 



On the cabinet, several guys here emailed on-line and off-line thank you with suggestions.? One suggestion was to make a wood cabinet.? Initially I dismissed that suggestion thinking that it of course?needs a metal cabinet.? After noodling on it for a while, I changed my mind and think a nicely done wood cabinet would look fabulous.??I don't need it for the shielding.??I'm also thinking of maybe not even doing a cabinet at all.? Half the fun of using this old style equipment is looking at it.?? I'd surely regret it if something fell off the shelf into the radio though..? I dont' think there is a strong reason TO HAVE a cabinet. 



I was looking back in my HBR notes at work and was surprised to see that last March/April I had started pursuing parts for an HBR project.? I had forgotten about that effort.? I started talking it up on this reflector and making inquiries, getting Kees and W6HHT CD's, and then work announced a big upcoming layoff in a month, and the next 6 weeks was filled with angst, other thoughts, lots and lots of talk, contingency planning if the worst happens, etc.. No time for any hobby.? Luckily I survived that round.? Then?last week my company announced the "Third Annual Layoff" (my term for it) for April so again this revelation consumed time.? This time I was told our immediate systems?group was safe so I don't have to worry about it... this year... so?the HBR project proceeds?:) 



So again thanks for your advice and help.? 73, Scott WA9WFA 




From nielwiegand at aggienetwork.com  Sat Mar 12 12:20:54 2011
From: nielwiegand at aggienetwork.com (Niel Wiegand)
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 11:20:54 -0600
Subject: [HBR] HBR 16 Underside Layout?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.113.1299862964.15774.hbr@mailman.qth.net>
References: <mailman.113.1299862964.15774.hbr@mailman.qth.net>
Message-ID: <4D7BAB76.60005@aggienetwork.com>

I have an HBR-16 project waiting for my attention. Unfortunately a 
non-house trained rodent took up house keeping at some point. Now I need 
to replace several ruined tube sockets in the IF strip. In the process 
I'd like to neaten up the wiring.

See http://www.prismnet.com/~nielw/hbr16/photos/DSCF0021a.html Does 
anyone have good photos or a layout showing recommended underside 
component placement?

tnx es 73,
Niel - W0VLZ

From wrcromwell at gmail.com  Sat Mar 12 14:13:33 2011
From: wrcromwell at gmail.com (Bill Cromwell)
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 14:13:33 -0500
Subject: [HBR] HBR 16 Underside Layout?
In-Reply-To: <4D7BAB76.60005@aggienetwork.com>
References: <mailman.113.1299862964.15774.hbr@mailman.qth.net>
	<4D7BAB76.60005@aggienetwork.com>
Message-ID: <1299957213.7871.0.camel@lancelot>

Hi,

Check with ASPCA for a source of house trained rodents <evil grin>.

Good luck with your project.

73,

Bill  KU8H



On Sat, 2011-03-12 at 11:20 -0600, Niel Wiegand wrote:
> I have an HBR-16 project waiting for my attention. Unfortunately a 
> non-house trained rodent took up house keeping at some point. Now I need 
> to replace several ruined tube sockets in the IF strip. In the process 
> I'd like to neaten up the wiring.
> 
> See http://www.prismnet.com/~nielw/hbr16/photos/DSCF0021a.html Does 
> anyone have good photos or a layout showing recommended underside 
> component placement?
> 
> tnx es 73,
> Niel - W0VLZ
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html



From waltah at earthlink.net  Sat Mar 12 17:20:00 2011
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 17:20:00 -0500
Subject: [HBR] HBR 16 Underside Layout?
In-Reply-To: <1299957213.7871.0.camel@lancelot>
References: <mailman.113.1299862964.15774.hbr@mailman.qth.net>
	<4D7BAB76.60005@aggienetwork.com> <1299957213.7871.0.camel@lancelot>
Message-ID: <116891169.20110312172000@earthlink.net>

> Check with ASPCA for a source of house trained rodents <evil grin>.

This is dangerous advice these days. If the ASPCA or any other
national animal organization finds out you've been allowing rodents to
live in your household without being at least paper trained, you could
find all your mice seized, be required to put up a bond for their
care, and be charged with animal cruelty.

You know those news stories with "animals living in deplorable
conditions" without any specifics that clearly show abuse?  That's
what I'm talking about.

No, it couldn't happen now with non-pet mice so the above is pretty
much just a tasteless joke. There was, however, a Brooklyn teenager
who lost her temper and killed a hamster a few days ago and has now
been charged with a felony.

You wonder why I never get much done on the radios anymore? Fighting
the 'animal rights' movement, that's why. Full time job, paying just
as well as the usual radio hobby.  Only thing missing is the fun.

PLEASE, never give money to any national animal organization: HSUS,
the ASPCA, PETA ... these days they are all spending most of that
money to oppose animal ownership and use. Instead, check out your
local animal shelter and if you like what you find, give to them --
the money will actually help some animals rather than coming back at
us in the pocket of a lobbyist or 'bought' state governor.

> Good luck with your project.

YES!  Sigh ...

Walt Hutchens
KJ4KV




From Hopperdhh at aol.com  Sun Mar 13 07:41:12 2011
From: Hopperdhh at aol.com (Hopperdhh at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 07:41:12 EDT
Subject: [HBR] BC-453 IF Coils
Message-ID: <7c7.462608b4.3aae0758@aol.com>

 
In a message dated 3/10/2011 2:38:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
whitebear1122 at comcast.net writes:


Wow,  Thanks Breck for what is probably the finest discussion I've seen on 
using  BC-453/R23 IF coils.  At first I was under the impression that those 
IF's  were considered inferior to the Miller parts.  Thanks to you and Breck 
 and Kees and others for correcting that misconception.  





I was holding off making a reply to this topic, but since no one else  has 
make one, here goes:
 
While the ARC-5 85 Kc IF cans are of very high quality, they are not very  
High-Q.  Their coils are air wound, while the Miller coils are on  high-Q 
powdered iron cores.  I believe the Miller coils will give better  
selectivity, if that's what you want.  For AM reception, the ARC-5 coils  may be 
superior.
 
Dan K9WEK
 

From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Sun Mar 13 10:36:46 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 14:36:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] BC-453 IF Coils
In-Reply-To: <1353896881.2259569.1300026860316.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1838724290.2259606.1300027006547.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>


?That is what I've read in the HBR articles as well.? Yes high selectivity is what every cw op?strives for?I imagine.? I started out looking for the Miller parts, and posted to several BA lists,?but I didn't get a single reply to my WTB posts for the Miller parts.? So the decision was sort of made by itself.? 

I will ask again since we're talking about it.? I'm looking to buy these Miller IF transformers.? 

(2) Miller 1730 1800 Kc IF transformer 
(4) Miller 1709 or 1710 10 KC IF transformer 
(1) Miller 1711 100 Kc BFO 


73, Scott WA9WFA

From wrcromwell at gmail.com  Sun Mar 13 15:07:11 2011
From: wrcromwell at gmail.com (Bill Cromwell)
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 15:07:11 -0400
Subject: [HBR] BC-453 IF Coils
In-Reply-To: <1838724290.2259606.1300027006547.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1838724290.2259606.1300027006547.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1300043231.1891.6.camel@lancelot>

On Sun, 2011-03-13 at 14:36 +0000, whitebear1122 at comcast.net wrote:
>  That is what I've read in the HBR articles as well.  Yes high selectivity is what every cw op strives for I imagine.  I started out looking for the Miller parts, and posted to several BA lists, but I didn't get a single reply to my WTB posts for the Miller parts.  So the decision was sort of made by itself.  
---snipped the askit---
> 
> 73, Scott WA9WFA

Hi Scott,

After acquiring ever narrower passband machines for CW operation I found
there is such a thing as "too narrow". If we can get single signal
reception - as with an SSB bandwidth filter or thereabouts there are
some audio tricks that can help pry the wanted signals from the
unwanted. That's not even mentioning the gray filter we have between our
ears.

I often listen (casual operation) with a 10 kc bandwidth and sometimes
even more with the BFO near the middle of the passband so that the audio
images can be heard (and taken advantage of).

73,

Bill  KU8H


From jlandrigan at pol.net  Mon Mar 14 12:23:19 2011
From: jlandrigan at pol.net (John Landrigan)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 12:23:19 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Miller 50 kc Coils ?
In-Reply-To: <B8C6D1FB0492482589AB579CD22CCBE1@owner888c206e9>
Message-ID: <1595924186.10873881300119799401.JavaMail.root@zmcs02l-pol-08.portal.webmd.com>

Hello Richard,
I've been on vacation for the last week and missed out on email maintenance. If the Miller coils are available I would like to get them from you.

John KA4RXP and Jody KG4VES


----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard & Donna Wayne" <rwayne at vnet.net>
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 4:41:09 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [HBR] Miller 50 kc Coils ?

Hello HBR Builders,

While looking at my stock of parts (junk box) today I found a set of Miller 50 KC coils.

I have 3 Miller #1884 50 KC coils and 1 Miller # 1884 BFO coil 48-52 KC.

All have solder small amount of solder residue on the lugs.

Are these of interest to HBR builders?

73
Richard W4LN
______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html



From jlandrigan at pol.net  Mon Mar 14 12:25:45 2011
From: jlandrigan at pol.net (John Landrigan)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 12:25:45 -0400
Subject: [HBR] ARC-5 coils
In-Reply-To: <20110310.131007.12825.1@webmail04.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <2130811145.10874461300119945305.JavaMail.root@zmcs02l-pol-08.portal.webmd.com>

Kees,
If you still have them I would be interested in getting at least three of the 85 KHz coils.

John KA4RXP and Jody KG4VES


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kees & Sandy" <windy10605 at juno.com>
To: HBR at mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 1:10:07 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [HBR] ARC-5 coils

I just went out to look at my military IF stock and have more than I can use. I used to pull them out of every Q5er I found (and others). I don't know what the going rate is $10 each postpaid ?
I have seven 85KHz IFs and five 1415KHz IFs available. I also came across 3 "nasty" looking 6pin Amphenol coil forms which I'll throw in for free if you want something else. There is also a 
"good" condition BC-342 ? (not the BC-348, the earlier one for $150).
The shop is too full. 
73 Kees K5BCQ 
______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html



From ianmwilson73 at gmail.com  Mon Mar 14 12:35:59 2011
From: ianmwilson73 at gmail.com (Ian Wilson)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 09:35:59 -0700
Subject: [HBR] ARC-5 coils
In-Reply-To: <2130811145.10874461300119945305.JavaMail.root@zmcs02l-pol-08.portal.webmd.com>
References: <20110310.131007.12825.1@webmail04.dca.untd.com>
	<2130811145.10874461300119945305.JavaMail.root@zmcs02l-pol-08.portal.webmd.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikuTP2ZQ8maKH0DLqjo8kLTpZp_ao-RuFZe60N5@mail.gmail.com>

Hi John - sent you an email a few days ago about 85kHz IFTs. I'll resend if
you don't have it.

73, ian

On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 9:25 AM, John Landrigan <jlandrigan at pol.net> wrote:

> Kees,
> If you still have them I would be interested in getting at least three of
> the 85 KHz coils.
>
> John KA4RXP and Jody KG4VES
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kees & Sandy" <windy10605 at juno.com>
> To: HBR at mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 1:10:07 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [HBR] ARC-5 coils
>
> I just went out to look at my military IF stock and have more than I can
> use. I used to pull them out of every Q5er I found (and others). I don't
> know what the going rate is $10 each postpaid ?
> I have seven 85KHz IFs and five 1415KHz IFs available. I also came across 3
> "nasty" looking 6pin Amphenol coil forms which I'll throw in for free if you
> want something else. There is also a
> "good" condition BC-342 ? (not the BC-348, the earlier one for $150).
> The shop is too full.
> 73 Kees K5BCQ
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

From jlandrigan at pol.net  Mon Mar 14 12:43:00 2011
From: jlandrigan at pol.net (John Landrigan)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 12:43:00 -0400
Subject: [HBR] ARC-5 coils
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikuTP2ZQ8maKH0DLqjo8kLTpZp_ao-RuFZe60N5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <480863240.10878561300120980836.JavaMail.root@zmcs02l-pol-08.portal.webmd.com>

Hi Ian,
Just back from a week long cruise and have been going through a pile up on email. I just finished reading the email you sent me earlier. Yes, I am very interested in getting your 85 KHz IFT's for my upcoming HBR 16. I also need a BFO. During the week's accumulation of emails I saw where KB4CHE put up a link to his HBR 14 webpage. He has a section in that for using the BC-453 IFT's that may dovetail nicely with what I want to do. Anything that you might have surplus to your needs is what I need to get from you. Crystals, mounting brackets, etc. etc. would be appreciated.

John KA4RXP and Jody KG4VES


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Wilson" <ianmwilson73 at gmail.com>
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2011 11:35:59 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [HBR] ARC-5 coils

Hi John - sent you an email a few days ago about 85kHz IFTs. I'll resend if
you don't have it.

73, ian

On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 9:25 AM, John Landrigan <jlandrigan at pol.net> wrote:

> Kees,
> If you still have them I would be interested in getting at least three of
> the 85 KHz coils.
>
> John KA4RXP and Jody KG4VES
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kees & Sandy" <windy10605 at juno.com>
> To: HBR at mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 1:10:07 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [HBR] ARC-5 coils
>
> I just went out to look at my military IF stock and have more than I can
> use. I used to pull them out of every Q5er I found (and others). I don't
> know what the going rate is $10 each postpaid ?
> I have seven 85KHz IFs and five 1415KHz IFs available. I also came across 3
> "nasty" looking 6pin Amphenol coil forms which I'll throw in for free if you
> want something else. There is also a
> "good" condition BC-342 ? (not the BC-348, the earlier one for $150).
> The shop is too full.
> 73 Kees K5BCQ
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
______________________________________________________________
HBR mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html



From waltah at earthlink.net  Mon Mar 14 13:26:49 2011
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 12:26:49 -0500
Subject: [HBR] THanks for Offers of Parts and Opinions
In-Reply-To: <331224874.2229067.1299939289414.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1233695450.2228310.1299937414019.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<331224874.2229067.1299939289414.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <128677712.20110314122649@earthlink.net>

Scott said:
> I don't have a drill press, and I do dislike the hole quality and
> inaccuracy of my hand drilling. I may need to buy a small drill
> press.

A drill press will give you the best accuracy if you are just marking
the chassis and drilling. If, however, you center punch your holes
first you can get even better accuracy with a hand drill, and I don't
mean the electric kind.

The reason?  A hand drill will center itself on the punch mark while a
drill press will tend to put the hole where the drill comes down and
generally 'walk' a little even if you get it exactly right.

You can do fine work with a hand drill for the holes that must be
accurate and a 1/4" hand held variable speed electric when you have a
bunch to do and they don't have to be too precise, as when making the
cutout for an Eddystone dial.

A few thoughts on chassis metalwork:

1. Use only aluminum chassis and panels: Steel doesn't begin to be
worth the trouble. Cover the chassis with paper. Get it on TIGHTLY so
it won't move and keep that sucker dry until the holes are all
punched.

2. Arrange the parts. You need more space between tubes and front
panel than you might think, especially around switches, pots, etc.
Double check conflicts between stuff on top and what goes underneath.
Dual section tubes need more space than single, oscillators, mixers,
and product detectors need more than amplifiers. Don't forget tie
strips and grommeted holes for wires to go from above to below, for
the panel, transformers, etc. How does the power get into your
chassis? Fuses? Antenna and speaker connections?

Triple check layout around meters and loudspeakers: The large size and
irregular shape can make trouble.  It's best to allow a little extra
space in case you have to replace one of these parts with one that's
not identical.

Using a beam tube such as a 7360 or 6JH8? NO MAGNETIC FIELDS NEARBY!
That means no meter, speaker, power transformer, output transformer,
or choke.  A panel mounted loudspeaker goes at the opposite end of the
chassis from the local oscillator and even then you may have trouble
from vibration.

Do you have enough room for filter capacitors? Variable cap rotors
when open? Long shafts and shaft couplings? Room to grasp and remove
plug in coils? Extra space around oscillator coils for stability?

It's good to check even established designs that you are copying: You
probably don't have exactly the same parts.

3. Measure the locations of the parts adjusting slightly so things are
lined up and make a dimensioned sketch. From that sketch lay out the
paper covered chassis.  Either put lines down the left-right and
front-rear center of the chassis and make all measurements from them
or always measure from the same side and the front or rear.

You can do layout for socket holes in two ways: Either mark just the
center and use the socket itself as a template for the mounting screw
holes, or carefully make three 1/8" holes in a scrap as a jig and lay
out all the holes by marking through the jig. 'Easier' vs. 'more
accurate' but both can work well.

Sockets are not precisely made so the 'socket as template' method will
often require adjustment of the holes with a small file.

Lay out the panel and mount it to the chassis temporarily: Clamp it on
(pad the clamps so you don't mar the panel) and drill a tight fitting
hole for one machine screw so you can maintain the same alignment.
Then put a couple more screws in locations that will later be occupied
by controls for a rigid setup and take off the clamps. Make
measurements and do layout for the dial mechanism and tuning cap.
Check this layout several times: If these parts are not perfectly
aligned you will have problems with binding and/or backlash.

Flexible shaft couplings will take care of almost invisible shaft
misalignment but NOT the real thing.

OLD PAPER TEMPLATES (AS FOR THE EDDYSTONE DIAL) WILL BE INACCURATE.
CHECK THEM AGAINST ACTUAL PARTS MEASUREMENTS.

Remove the panel and center punch all the holes. Put a block of
hardwood or metal against the inside of the chassis right under the
spot you're punching so you don't dent the chassis. When drilling put
a block of wood up inside the chassis so that you don't dent the
chassis when you cut through.

I generally drill the panel first, then do the matching chassis holes.
For the Eddystone dial cut necessary clearance holes for the mechanism
and flywheel. Put the panel on the chassis. Temporarily mount the
front panel parts. Then before starting to drill the rest of the
chassis holes put all the parts on the chassis AGAIN, over their
respective punch marks. Better to have a spare punch mark or two than
a tube that won't fit!

4. Write or sketch each part on the chassis paper so you'll know what
you're drilling for. Use your hand drill to drill everything 1/8"
diameter unless a smaller hole is required.

5. Now go around and re-drill the holes that need to be larger, up to
1/4" or so. It is very hard to drill perfect holes greater than 1/4"
diameter in sheet metal without a drill press and more rigid setup
than is available in the usual home shop.

Up to ~1/2" a taper reamer alternated with a rat tail file works well.
Start with a 1/4" hole, go slowly, use the reamer from both sides, and
clean off the burrs as they form with a pocket knife.

For still larger holes up to 1-1/2" chassis punches can't be beat: use
the reamer to enlarge the center hole for the punch bolt but of course
nice work isn't needed. Many punches have marks on the sides that can
be aligned with lines through the center hole to get precise
placement. Note that octal sockets are of several different diameters.

You can do just as nice work without punches at the cost of an extra
10 minutes per hole. Instead of drilling the 1/8" center hole, ring
the c. punch mark with a Magic Marker for the approximate diameter
then use a compass with a sharp point to scribe the proper size circle
in the MM black. Then use an electric drill repeatedly, staying just
inside the scribed line until you can cut out out the piece with a
pocket knife. Work very carefully with a half-round file to clean up
the hole. When you get within 1/32" or so, take a dowel or piece of
PVC pipe not much smaller than the hole and wrap in 60 grit sandpaper,
work this around in the hole trying the fit on your part regularly
until it is both smooth and the correct size. For the last tiny bit
switch to 150 grit.

The drill-around-the-edges technique is also a good way to make
rectangular holes. These are cleaned up with a flat file. Wrap the
file in sandpaper (as above) and slide laterally back and forth to
finish. For large holes (that darned Eddystone cutout!) use a wood
block wrapped in sandpaper for finishing.

The expensive sandpaper works FAR better than the cheap stuff and will
only cost you a few $ extra for the whole job, with lots left over.

Alternative for small rectangular holes: grinding disks in a Dremel.
Watch out for the chuck hitting the surface and chewing it up.

I don't like metal nibblers. The nibbling goes very slowly, it is hard
to do precisely and the tool mars the surface.

6. I like to finish with 300 grit sandpaper followed by 600 grit
watersand used wet, then a 'brillo' pad. Some people use clear plastic
spray on the top of the chassis but I've never been able to get the
stuff to stay on.

7. Sheet metal screws are rarely satisfactory for chassis work: Use
machine screws and nuts with lockwashers.

For mounting shields and very small items you can drill and form
threads for 3-48 machine screws in almost any aluminum chassis. Buy a
couple of 3-48 'thread forming taps' (Google ...): These push the
metal aside rather than cutting it away. This does two things: (a)
thickens it, and (b) work-hardens it around the hole. Those scrap
command sets will furnish all the screws you need. Drill well
undersize, chuck the tap in your hand drill and use a lubricant --
margarine works well. DO NOT REMOVE THE UPSET METAL OR BURRS.

This sounds flimsy but it is PLENTY strong and with a screw every
1-1/2" or so, extremely rigid. For example it is excellent when
mounting a tuning cap on a bracket.

Holes in the part to be mounted must be considerably oversize (say
1/8" for 3-48 screws) to allow for the upset metal around the hole.
Best technique for shields and brackets is to lay out and center punch
the holes, clamp the part in place, and drill the (small) tap holes
through both pieces. Then remove the part and enlarge the holes in the
non-tapped piece to 1/8". Parts assembled this way go together as if
they were milled and doweled in place.

Alternative when clamping isn't practical: PRECISELY lay out two or
three well separated holes on both parts. Finish these up and
temporarily mount the part, then proceed as for clamping.

Try every new technique on a piece of scrap once or twice before doing
it 'for real.' Yes, even the layout for a couple of parts, center
punching and drilling.

An HBR-scale project might require 100-200 holes; the first time you
do one you might need 20-40 hours for the chassis and front panel
metalwork. After you've done a couple you can get down to half that.
$100 worth of hand tools (some from fleamarkets) is enough to do
essentially perfect chassis and panel work if you practice each new
technique first and don't rush things.

And yes, you can do it on your kitchen table. Take a 2'x4' sheet of
1/2" plywood and temporarily nail four strips on it to keep your
chassis from moving while you're drilling (etc.) When you're ready to
wire, fasten on a couple of softwood pieces to support the chassis
upside down without damaging topside parts.

Walt
KJ4KV




From tshoppa at wmata.com  Mon Mar 14 13:48:12 2011
From: tshoppa at wmata.com (Shoppa, Tim)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 13:48:12 -0400
Subject: [HBR] THanks for Offers of Parts and Opinions
In-Reply-To: <128677712.20110314122649@earthlink.net>
References: <1233695450.2228310.1299937414019.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<331224874.2229067.1299939289414.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<128677712.20110314122649@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <B136EDE3DF5EC441B6F08E0A7AB872450BB0E5E114@EX2K7-CMS-1.wmata.local>

I would add my two cents:

1. I personally like nibblers to help with anything except a circular hole.

2. Step drills work very nicely on sheet metal. Specifically the "Unibit" brand ones are very fine tools. (I am less than impressed by the Harbor Freight knockoffs.) Drilling anything larger than about 1/4" in sheet metal with a "regular" spiral woodworking or metalworking drill bit is often unwise.

3. Hole saws can be productively on sheet metal but require some care.

4. Greenlee is the preferred brand of chassis punch but only slightly less fine, are the imports (?Deltron? brand?) in the Mouser catalog. Again, the Harbor Freight stuff is junk.

Tim.


From wrcromwell at gmail.com  Mon Mar 14 12:56:51 2011
From: wrcromwell at gmail.com (Bill Cromwell)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 12:56:51 -0400
Subject: [HBR] THanks for Offers of Parts and Opinions
In-Reply-To: <128677712.20110314122649@earthlink.net>
References: <1233695450.2228310.1299937414019.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<331224874.2229067.1299939289414.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<128677712.20110314122649@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1300121811.3137.1.camel@lancelot>

Hi Walt,

I've used some of the same methods you outlined but I found some new
tricks to try, too. Thanks for your post. I have two different
'nibblers' and I don't like either one!

73,

Bill  KU8H


From aaf-radio-1 at aafradio.org  Mon Mar 14 15:15:41 2011
From: aaf-radio-1 at aafradio.org (Mike Hanz)
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 15:15:41 -0400
Subject: [HBR] THanks for Offers of Parts and Opinions
In-Reply-To: <B136EDE3DF5EC441B6F08E0A7AB872450BB0E5E114@EX2K7-CMS-1.wmata.local>
References: <1233695450.2228310.1299937414019.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>	<331224874.2229067.1299939289414.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>	<128677712.20110314122649@earthlink.net>
	<B136EDE3DF5EC441B6F08E0A7AB872450BB0E5E114@EX2K7-CMS-1.wmata.local>
Message-ID: <4D7E695D.5030406@aafradio.org>

I like the step drills as well.  I use them in the Bridgeport mill all 
the time - quicker than setting up a boring bar when all you're drilling 
is aluminum sheet metal.

If you have a small drill press, explore some ways to slow it down for 
larger holes (there are tables and formulas for this) and use Tim's hole 
saw approach with frequent pecks and washing with coolant -  WD-40 is 
superb in aluminum and will keep your tools from rusting in between 
building bouts.  Clamping the aluminum to the table is essential, of 
course.

The last item I consider essential is a couple of different sizes of 
what machinists call "center drills":

http://www.mcmaster.com/#combined-countersinks-and-drills/=bfkm53

I've used these for fifty years in all kinds of metals and drill 
platforms...the "flight deck" in my radio shack was built almost 
entirely with a 3/8" variable speed drill and a chop saw 
(http://aafradio.org/flightdeck/layout.htm )  The key to drilling and 
tapping hundreds of fastening points in the 1/8" aluminum channel was a 
couple of #1 center drills.  A #1 and a #3 high speed steel bit will do 
you nicely and you will be amazed at their ability to start on a tiny 
scribed mark and drill a neatly chamfered pilot hole without moving away 
from the scribed cross hairs, even with a hand drill.  In sheet metal, a 
larger set will eliminate having to switch to a normal drill bit after 
the pilot hole is drilled.  Best thing since sliced bread...

   - Mike  KC4TOS

On 3/14/2011 1:48 PM, Shoppa, Tim wrote:
> I would add my two cents:
>
> 1. I personally like nibblers to help with anything except a circular hole.
>
> 2. Step drills work very nicely on sheet metal. Specifically the "Unibit" brand ones are very fine tools. (I am less than impressed by the Harbor Freight knockoffs.) Drilling anything larger than about 1/4" in sheet metal with a "regular" spiral woodworking or metalworking drill bit is often unwise.
>
> 3. Hole saws can be productively on sheet metal but require some care.


From bignick at execpc.com  Tue Mar 15 16:24:43 2011
From: bignick at execpc.com (bignick at execpc.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 16:24:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [HBR] HBR 16 Underside Layout?
In-Reply-To: <4D7BAB76.60005@aggienetwork.com>
References: <mailman.113.1299862964.15774.hbr@mailman.qth.net>
	<4D7BAB76.60005@aggienetwork.com>
Message-ID: <19063.198.169.189.227.1300220683.squirrel@newmail.core.com>



Niel,

Just an FYI .. and you probably know this already.?
But, in many of may radios
that I had home-brewed, I took elaborate
pains to?route the cloth covered wiring nice and neat
and at
right angles, etc.

I think I recall Ted Crosby strongly
advising against any impulse to do so.? Direct
wiring, although
very ugly, offers the best performance as I understand it.? So, I
would try to "neaten-up" too much :-)

What I did to
place componets was to examine some photo's of previously built
units
and compromised on where components (such as chokes) would fit.

ex:? I think my rectifiers are pretty well hidden under filter caps
and atleast one choke is
mounted on a side-wall.

73

--KC9KEP

> I have an HBR-16 project waiting for my
attention. Unfortunately a 
> non-house trained rodent took up
house keeping at some point. Now I need 
> to replace several
ruined tube sockets in the IF strip. In the process 
> I'd like to
neaten up the wiring. 
> 
> See
http://www.prismnet.com/~nielw/hbr16/photos/DSCF0021a.html Does 
>
anyone have good photos or a layout showing recommended underside 
> component placement? 
> 
> tnx es 73, 
>
Niel - W0VLZ 
>
______________________________________________________________ 
>
HBR mailing list 
> Home:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr 
> Help:
http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm 
> Post:
mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net 
> 
> This list hosted by:
http://www.qsl.net 
> Please help support this email list:
http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 
> 


From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 16 11:05:43 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:05:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] Can I call it mine?
In-Reply-To: <DE46F1E460E34898A3D281E351406AF0@w0eaj>
Message-ID: <1853613894.2424143.1300287943339.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Hi Tom, thanks for your comments, recommendations, and advice.? I've decided not to rip up either my 16 or 13C, but instead build my own from scratch.? I'm struggling with determining which HBR model to build as I have no experience with all of them.? If I were an experienced radio builder I'd do the 13C but this is my first complicated radio project.? I have poor mechanical skills and I think the 13C requires some good skill dealing with the Eddystone and elevated chassis. 



I think the 16 is simple and straightforward, with a chassis having enough room.? I've read where Ted Crosby said the 11 was his best achievement based on performance and simplicity. I like that.? I won't build an HBR just for simplicity though, it needs to be a good performer.? 



>From what you say on your 11 experience, it is a hot hot performer.? 



I just bought a National dial and NPW gear box plus an Eddystone slide rule dial.? I'm thinking of keeping the Eddystone on standby for a future 13C and using the National dial for either a 16 or 11.? I also found three NOS 85 KC BC-453 IF transformers, so I'm pretty close to having the really difficult parts for the project. 



73, Scott WA9WFA 




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TC Dailey" <daileyservices at qwest.net> 
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net> 
Sent: Thursday, March 3, 2011 1:14:15 PM 
Subject: [HBR] Can I call it mine? 

Any time you put YOUR soul into something - it becomes YOURS. ?Yes, replace 
the caps, replace any resistors that are out of tolerance, "shotgun" all the 
solder joints, clean everything (including tube sockets with a tiny bit of 
DeOxit) and tighten all hardware. ?The basic circuit is TERRIFIC and as my 
HBR-11 still provides "readable cw" at .045 uv @ 75m - I'd say that's just 
fine. ?I've often thought of replacing the front panel (the control holes 
aren't exactly in a straight line), but ya'know - it has character and a 
proud history - why mess that up? 

Tom - W0EAJ 

______________________________________________________________ 
HBR mailing list 
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr 
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm 
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net 

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net 
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 

From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 16 11:12:01 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:12:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
In-Reply-To: <C598A9C4641E4B8CAFB40E8F2A484BC3@acera2gjrt6tf9>
Message-ID: <56070091.2424594.1300288321529.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Hi Lorne, Thanks very much for your advice on the cabinet.? At first I was thinking that it had to be metal but after noodling on it and recognizing that the metal cabinet isn't shielding anything internally, your wood cabinet advice made more sense.? A wood cabinet can be built around what size chassis I end up with as opposed to a metal cabinet where the chassis has to be fit into it.? While I have no woodworking skills, my brother-in-law is a woodworking master so I can get a cabinet made by him. 



I have located three NOS 85 KC IF transformers, the dials, and I have the 3 section variable capacitor, so I'm close to having the really difficult parts.? I have bought both a National dial and NPW gearbox, plus a NOS Eddystone slide rule dial.? I'm thinking of keeping the Eddystone on standby for a future 13C project for when I acquire some radio building skills.? I may lead off with the HRO dial. 



I am still struggling with over the decision of which HBR model to build.? If I were skilled in radio construction I would jump on the HBR-13C, but I am not.? This will be my first complicated radio beyond my 1929 transmitters and simple regen receivers.? I think the HBR-16 is simple and straightforward for a newbie.? I've read where Ted Crosby was most proud of the HBR-11 with its performance and simplicity.? So I'm leaning towards the 16 or 11. 





Thanks for your advice here!? 



73, Scott WA9WFA 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lorne Barber" <bear57 at telus.net> 
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 2, 2011 3:37:27 PM 
Subject: Re: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet 

Scott, if you are handy with wood, you might consider pine shelving material 
available at the local hardware store. 
I built one ?for a ZL2JJ ?regen set. I hinged part of the top to facilitate 
coil changing. I recessed the front top, sides and bottom for the front 
panel, ?Looked decent and worked well. 
Just a thought. 
7 3 
Lorne 
Ve7box 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <whitebear1122 at comcast.net> 
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2011 11:03 AM 
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet 


> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for a cabinet for an HBR-13 project. Are there any suggestions 
> for an HBR-13 cabinet? I doubt if there are any new commercial offerings 
> anymore with a lid for accessing the coils. I did an internet search the 
> other night and turned up nothing. Any recommendations for used cabinets? 
> 
> 
> 
> 73, Scott WA9WFA 
> ______________________________________________________________ 
> HBR mailing list 
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr 
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm 
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net 
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net 
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 

______________________________________________________________ 
HBR mailing list 
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr 
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm 
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net 

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net 
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 

From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 16 11:27:06 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:27:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] Sorry, Meant to Send Those Last Two Emails Off the List
In-Reply-To: <1853613894.2424143.1300287943339.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <39226388.2425570.1300289225940.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Sorry, I thought I was sending those last two emails off line and not bothering the list.??? 



I am really jazzed up about this HBR project.? I've decided not to rip down my two HBR's (built by others), but instead build my own from scratch.? 



Thanks to some folks on this list I've located some NOS BC-453 85 Kc IF transformers, a National dial and NPW straight gear box, and a NOS Eddystone slide rule dial.? I already have the three section variable capacitor.? The remaining hard part is the BFO transformer.? Breck Smith uses the BC-453?untapped BFO transformer by converting the BFO oscillator from a Hartley to a Colpitts.? Does anyone have a BC-453 BFO transformer that I can purchase? 



I'm struggling over which HBR to build.? This will be my first complicated radio project, well beyond the 1929 transmitters and simple regen receiver projects.? If I were experienced I'd probably lead off with the HBR-13C but? I'm concerned that this will be more complicated electrically and mechanically than this newbie can handle.? 



I think the HBR-16 is a straightforward and simpler receiver for this newbie.? I understand there are chassis templates and front panel templates available.? Admittedly I have no good mechanical skills, so I need to be careful here and take on something that I have a good chance of success with.??The templates would be a great help. 



I've read on either Kees CD or W6HHT's CD where Ted Crosby was the most proud of his HBR-11 in terms of it's excellent performance and simplicity.? I like the simplicity part with it still having great performance.? I don't think there is a single HBR 12 schematic or chassis/front panel?template out there so I'm starting to get off of solid ground mechanically wise. 



I'm thinking of using the National HRO dial and NPW gear drive for my first receiver project.? I imagine it to be easier to implement than the Eddystone dial for a newbie who will be learning some mechanical skills along with way. 



So that's where I am.? Once I make the final decision on HBR model, then I'll proceed with ordering the chassis and parts.??Advice is appreciated.?Thanks. 73, Scott WA9WFA 


From LeeCraner at aol.com  Wed Mar 16 11:52:51 2011
From: LeeCraner at aol.com (LeeCraner at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 11:52:51 EDT
Subject: [HBR] Sorry, Meant to Send Those Last Two Emails Off the List
Message-ID: <5cd9e.610a1606.3ab236d3@aol.com>

Scott:
 
Considering the comments you've made, I'd highly recommend the  HBR-11.  
Five fewer holes to punch if nothing else, hi.  And being one  of the last 
iterations of Ted's receivers, it incorporates a lot of what he  learned along 
the way.  BTW, the "C" in HBR-13C simply means a center  mounted Eddystone 
dial.  There is no reason why you couldn't build an  HBR-13 using another 
dial configuration.
 
Give a lot of thought to the dial that you'll use.  It's what you'll  be 
looking at whenever you operate the rig.  The National dial is a great  dial.  
Keep in mind though that the HBR (any flavor) dial calibration in  not 
linear.  So you won't be able to read the frequency directly from the  PW dial.  
You'll have to make up a dial calibration chart ala the HRO  receivers 
(which were not linear either).  The National ICN, ACN, etc dials  did allow 
easy hand calibration, but the tuning rate is typically found to be  too quick. 
 This can be solved by using the Jackson Brothers dual range  drive (still 
available new from Surplus Sales of Nebraska) behind the National  drive, 
but this does require some fabrication (I've got pictures of how to do  this 
if you decide to explore that option).
 
One caution on the thoughts of using a wooden case.  The HF oscillator  in 
an HBR is very susceptible to proximity capacitance.  Your hand, etc.  close 
to the left side of the wooden case will change the received frequency  
quite dramatically.  
 
73
Lee WB6SSW

From daileyservices at qwest.net  Wed Mar 16 12:32:40 2011
From: daileyservices at qwest.net (TC Dailey)
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 10:32:40 -0600
Subject: [HBR] HBR-11's
References: <5cd9e.610a1606.3ab236d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D38C30FA9C1940C2A52C1E62AFA69696@w0eaj>

Lee's right.  My HBR-11 (circa 1964) works great, has the right look, and 
delivers "readable" CW at .045 microvolt on 80m.  Build one of these - 
you'll love it. 


From waltah at earthlink.net  Thu Mar 17 08:40:12 2011
From: waltah at earthlink.net (Walt Hutchens)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 07:40:12 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
In-Reply-To: <56070091.2424594.1300288321529.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <C598A9C4641E4B8CAFB40E8F2A484BC3@acera2gjrt6tf9>
	<56070091.2424594.1300288321529.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <584147976.20110317074012@earthlink.net>

Thanks to Mike, Tim, and others for comments on tools and methods: The
UniBit and center drill techniques will be assimilated ...

That 'flight deck' project is amazing, Mike.

http://aafradio.org/flightdeck/layout.htm

For those who missed it the first time.

One thing you don't appreciate unless you've experienced it is the
noise level from such equipment. The DC blowers and dynamotors aren't
that far short of the threshold of pain. The 400 cycle (and up) AC
adds to the pleasure. At altitude (10,000 feet and up) it's not a
problem but running this stuff in a ground level ham shack is not
quite like using a Yaesu.

I especially enjoyed the info on obscure jammers.  It hadn't occurred
to me that one could voice modulate them!

However I'm still claiming to be the only ham to communicate using the
VHF/MF double modulation systems -- across the shack with a home-made
few milliwatt transmitter to the Navy version of the receiver.

Regarding wooden cabinets: A metal front panel solves the hand
capacitance problem unless there's a reason to reach around the side
while the receiver is operating.  In that case a shield plate can be
added in that area: Even a piece of aluminum foil inside that side of
the cabinet would do it.

Scott said:
> I am still struggling with over the decision of which HBR model to
> build. If I were skilled in radio construction I would jump on the
> HBR-13C, but I am not. This will be my first complicated radio
> beyond my 1929 transmitters and simple regen receivers. I think the
> HBR-16 is simple and straightforward for a newbie. I've read where
> Ted Crosby was most proud of the HBR-11 with its performance and
> simplicity. So I'm leaning towards the 16 or 11.

You might consider building an intermediate project first. The 2X4+
Superhet (four tubes plus a voltage regulator) in the 1965 and nearby
Handbooks would make a good in-between. This would offer practice in
layout, wiring, more complex metalwork, and so on.

For what it's worth, I think the only reason to build an HBR-16 is to
build an HBR-16.  W6TC's later designs better match his goals of high
performance combined with ease of construction.  They aren't just
repackaging of the circuits to use fewer tube sockets, but better
performing circuits.  The HBR 8/11 is a hard one to beat.

Walt
KJ4KV



From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Thu Mar 17 09:45:01 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 13:45:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] HBR-11's
In-Reply-To: <D38C30FA9C1940C2A52C1E62AFA69696@w0eaj>
Message-ID: <1046537874.2479354.1300369501526.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Thanks Tom for the advice.? I'm pretty much decided on the HBR-11/12.? I get the impression that the 11 is every bit?a good a performer, if not better, than the 16.? I'm thinking that I'll do the HBR-12 using either a Millen slide rule dial that is coming or an HRO dial and NPW drive that is also coming.? Think I'll save the Eddystone sliderule for an HBR-13 after I get some experience under my belt.?? Thanks.? 73, Scott WA9WFA 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TC Dailey" <daileyservices at qwest.net> 
To: "HBR Receiver List" <hbr at mailman.qth.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 11:32:40 AM 
Subject: [HBR] HBR-11's 

Lee's right. ?My HBR-11 (circa 1964) works great, has the right look, and 
delivers "readable" CW at .045 microvolt on 80m. ?Build one of these - 
you'll love it. 

______________________________________________________________ 
HBR mailing list 
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr 
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm 
Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net 

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net 
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 

From rcoelln at procompsales.com  Thu Mar 17 18:08:46 2011
From: rcoelln at procompsales.com (rcoelln at procompsales.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 17:08:46 -0500
Subject: [HBR] Delux HBR Receiver
Message-ID: <OFF0F35A94.ADBF194E-ON86257856.007961A3-86257856.0079A7D1@phasecom.com>

Has anybody built the deluxe HBR receiver by Bill Orr?
Looks like it has all the bells and whistles added.
Bob
KG5JL

From aaf-radio-1 at aafradio.org  Thu Mar 17 19:53:13 2011
From: aaf-radio-1 at aafradio.org (Mike Hanz)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 19:53:13 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Suggestion for HBR-13 Cabinet
In-Reply-To: <584147976.20110317074012@earthlink.net>
References: <C598A9C4641E4B8CAFB40E8F2A484BC3@acera2gjrt6tf9>	<56070091.2424594.1300288321529.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<584147976.20110317074012@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4D829EE9.3090600@aafradio.org>

On 3/17/2011 8:40 AM, Walt Hutchens wrote:
> That 'flight deck' project is amazing, Mike.

Many thanks, Walt - you are really the main culprit responsible for its 
conception back in 1989 after I visited your shack in Arlington.  My 
wife says she would like to meet you someday...but she has a funny look 
in her eye and a glance at the knife drawer whenever she says it...

> One thing you don't appreciate unless you've experienced it is the
> noise level from such equipment. The DC blowers and dynamotors aren't
> that far short of the threshold of pain. The 400 cycle (and up) AC
> adds to the pleasure. At altitude (10,000 feet and up) it's not a
> problem but running this stuff in a ground level ham shack is not
> quite like using a Yaesu.

Absolutely!  It's a niche market, for sure...  Of course, very little of 
the rotary equipment in a larger setup is actually spinning at any given 
moment in time.  It's the rotaries with open housings that create the 
most noise.  The dynos with the closed ends are actually almost silent, 
including the big one for the BC-375.  The ART-13 dyno is a particularly 
persistent irritation when you're speaking, as you well know.  But the 
all time WWII champ is the 800~ rotary inverter for the two old Navy 
transmitters, which has a siren-like shriek quality about it. =-O   
Fortunately, I've hidden a pair of modern Behlman lab inverters behind 
the 'flight deck' to provide 400 and 800~ power, so I don't have to have 
my hearing checked so often any more...heh.

Eh, what's that you say?  Wait a minnit - let me turn up my hearing aid...

> I especially enjoyed the info on obscure jammers.  It hadn't occurred
> to me that one could voice modulate them!

It didn't occur to me at first either, but modulation is modulation, so 
eventually my braincells kept kicking me enough to try it.  The original 
noise tube sources are broadband, so a low pass audio filter in the 
chain with level correction is pretty much all you need.  What you get 
out is of course whatever the technique originally designed in...DSBRC 
was a favorite of the later jammer designs, so that's what you have with 
those particular units.

> However I'm still claiming to be the only ham to communicate using the
> VHF/MF double modulation systems -- across the shack with a home-made
> few milliwatt transmitter to the Navy version of the receiver.

I believe that's still a record, AFAIK.  (Walt is referring to the old 
ZB-*, AN/ARR-1, and ARR-2 homing receivers that guided aircraft back to 
the carriers in WWII.)  I've modulated the calibration oscillator in the 
set's test equipment suite to transmit old time radio broadcasts at a 
few milliwatts, but never tried any live voice - the music sounds about 
as well as can be expected...:-\

73,
Mike

From JMarsh1014 at aol.com  Thu Mar 17 20:14:16 2011
From: JMarsh1014 at aol.com (JMarsh1014 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 20:14:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [HBR] Delux HBR Receiver
Message-ID: <2454b.5efdf0bd.3ab3fdd8@aol.com>

I have been wanting to build that receiver for  years

From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 18 09:47:08 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 13:47:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] Intermediate Project
In-Reply-To: <584147976.20110317074012@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <608138196.2535854.1300456028901.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Walt brings up a good idea, maybe I should take on an intermediate project first?before jumping into a complicated receiver.? It would give me a chance to gain some mechanical and tube wiring experience.??I can use the same style chassis that I'm planning on using for the HBR, do the drilling, hole punching, precise measurements, and work out the newbie problems on it rather than my nice HBR project.?? 



Walt?suggested the 2X4+ Superhet.? Oddly enough, In the back of my bound?booklet of all the HBR-16 articles and info is?the 2x4+ article. Not sure why?I have it or put it there several years ago.? Equally interesting?is that I just purchased a?Millen 10035 dial from a listmember, that is the dial used in the 2x4+.??So maybe it's fate or as Darth Vader said 'it's your destiny'. hi hi? 


Thanks for the suggestion Walt.? 



I'm narrowing down the first HBR model build to an?HBR 12.? I was reading the QST article last night and saw where they offered a chassis and front panel template.? Does anyone on the list have those templates?? 



73, Scott WA9WFA? 





From wrcromwell at gmail.com  Fri Mar 18 10:49:37 2011
From: wrcromwell at gmail.com (Bill Cromwell)
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 10:49:37 -0400
Subject: [HBR] Intermediate Project
In-Reply-To: <608138196.2535854.1300456028901.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <608138196.2535854.1300456028901.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1300459777.2004.41.camel@lancelot>

Hi Scott,

I have been rounding up parts for a SimpleX Super which is similar to
but a bit simpler than the two by four receiver. They use the same band
imaging front end but the SimpleX one uses a single crystal filter and
one less audio tube. I am planning to build one straight up as designed
and then build a second one with additional band coverage - probably
with plug in coils up front. I am not opposed to using band imaging but
the second one will probably have the image fall in one of the short
wave broadcast bands outside any ham bands. Since I sometimes listen
outside the ham bands I will keep the imaging feature. By moving to
plug-in coils for band changes I will be able to move the I.F. out of
the broadcast band and move the design a little closer to the HBR
design.

I am considering the HBR 8/11 eventually and I'm slowly accumulating
some of the parts for that. I have already mentioned here that I want to
rearrange the layout to get a different 'form factor' and I got advice
from the group about some possible mistakes to avoid when I do - and I'm
paying attention to that. It's good to see other people, like yourself,
making moves toward a new HBR.

73,

Bill  KU8H


On Fri, 2011-03-18 at 13:47 +0000, whitebear1122 at comcast.net wrote:
> 
> Walt brings up a good idea, maybe I should take on an intermediate project first before jumping into a complicated receiver.  It would give me a chance to gain some mechanical and tube wiring experience.  I can use the same style chassis that I'm planning on using for the HBR, do the drilling, hole punching, precise measurements, and work out the newbie problems on it rather than my nice HBR project.   
> 
> 
> 
> Walt suggested the 2X4+ Superhet.  Oddly enough, In the back of my bound booklet of all the HBR-16 articles and info is the 2x4+ article. Not sure why I have it or put it there several years ago.  Equally interesting is that I just purchased a Millen 10035 dial from a listmember, that is the dial used in the 2x4+.  So maybe it's fate or as Darth Vader said 'it's your destiny'. hi hi  
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion Walt.  
> 
> 
> 
> I'm narrowing down the first HBR model build to an HBR 12.  I was reading the QST article last night and saw where they offered a chassis and front panel template.  Does anyone on the list have those templates?  
> 
> 
> 
> 73, Scott WA9WFA  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> HBR mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html



From whitebear1122 at comcast.net  Mon Mar 21 20:37:09 2011
From: whitebear1122 at comcast.net (whitebear1122 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 00:37:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [HBR] HBR-11/12 Front Panel and Chassis Template Available?
In-Reply-To: <D38C30FA9C1940C2A52C1E62AFA69696@w0eaj>
Message-ID: <932220688.2705318.1300754229524.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

While reading the HBR-11 article I noticed that templates for the front panel and chassis were available. Does anyone have those templates that they would be willing to share with me? 
73, Scott WA9WFA 

From bignick at execpc.com  Tue Mar 22 09:41:14 2011
From: bignick at execpc.com (bignick at execpc.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 09:41:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [HBR] HBR-11/12 Front Panel and Chassis Template Available?
In-Reply-To: <932220688.2705318.1300754229524.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.m
	ail.comcast.net>
References: <932220688.2705318.1300754229524.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20514.198.169.189.227.1300801274.squirrel@newmail.core.com>



Scott,

Is the model that you're planning to build the same as
the one that I've built?

http://www.bignick.net/Morgan_Radio/Radio_8.htm

I did my layout in CorelDraw.? Do you have CorelDraw or the
freebie
CorelDraw reader and a computer?? Or I could save it in
pdf.

This is assuming,of course, that I can still find the file
and that this is the
same model that you want to build :-)

73

--KC9KEP


> While reading the HBR-11
article I noticed that templates for the front 
> panel and
chassis were available. Does anyone have those templates that 
>
they would be willing to share with me? 
> 73, Scott WA9WFA 
> ______________________________________________________________ 
> HBR mailing list 
> Home:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr 
> Help:
http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm 
> Post:
mailto:HBR at mailman.qth.net 
> 
> This list hosted by:
http://www.qsl.net 
> Please help support this email list:
http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 
> 


From garypewitt at centurytel.net  Wed Mar 23 00:38:05 2011
From: garypewitt at centurytel.net (Gary Pewitt)
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 23:38:05 -0500
Subject: [HBR] HBR-11/12 Front Panel and Chassis Template Available?
In-Reply-To: <20514.198.169.189.227.1300801274.squirrel@newmail.core.com>
References: <932220688.2705318.1300754229524.JavaMail.root@sz0139a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20514.198.169.189.227.1300801274.squirrel@newmail.core.com>
Message-ID: <4D89792D.5080902@centurytel.net>

Absolutely beautiful work.  And the laser engraving makes it perfect.  
Where do you get it done?
73  Gary  N9ZSV



On 3/22/2011 8:41 AM, bignick at execpc.com wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> Is the model that you're planning to build the same as
> the one that I've built?
>
> http://www.bignick.net/Morgan_Radio/Radio_8.htm
>
> I did my layout in CorelDraw.  Do you have CorelDraw or the
> freebie
> CorelDraw reader and a computer?  Or I could save it in
> pdf.
>
> This is assuming,of course, that I can still find the file
> and that this is the
> same model that you want to build :-)
>
> 73
>
> --KC9KEP
>
>
>
>
>


