[HBR] dial markings

[Helmut Usbeck]

The first three I make 20 years ago or so were crap.  I finally got the
procedure down after several trys.  The stock I use is usually .015 thick.
Not too big not to small.  Stay away from stainless and coffee can tins.
Metals are very mallable, moreso than one would think.  The dies must be
sharp and the impression is transfered with the piece over a hard flat
surface.   I use a granite surface plate but have used cast iron also.
One taps the impression in lightly(one straight tap).  This is not lop
hammer stuff.  I have a varity of hammers in the shop and the one I use the most for
everything is a 3 oz. ballpeen. We're not making I-beams or horseshoes
here. The last dial I made is sitting on a regen receiver I made for my
brother last Christmas.  Unless I get up enough energy, I probably won't
be doing to much machine work.  Right now I'm finishing off the wiring on
a one tube blooper.  Hope to have some pics and the silly story behind it
at the end of the week.

Regards,
Helmut "I'm still looking for a 3inch dial but will settle for a 4 incher" Usbeck,  WB2ADT

On Sun, 24 Nov 2002, R.J. Mattson wrote:

> Sounds like you can make very handsome dials. I would love to see one. You
> must use quite heavy metal to not get warp distortions when using small
> number dies for markings? I assume the numbers are stamped?
> Bob...W2AMI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Helmut Usbeck" <root@verizon.net>
> To: <hbr@mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 12:08 AM
> Subject: [HBR] dial markings
>
>
> The way I have made up graduated metal dials is with a lathe.
> In a nutshell what one does is chuck up the stock and cut the dial to
> size.  Then bore a 1/4 inch hole dead center.  I then re-chuck it into the
> spindle bore of the lathe.  Using the tool holder with a screw cutting
> tool held perpendicular to the piece I lower in into place at a depth of
> about .01 inch.  I then move the tool holder out towards the perimeter of
> the dial and there you have a beautifully cut "etching".  One then
> continues around the dial until its finished.  Of course one also need to
> calibrate the spindle in degrees and some sort of clamp has to be devised
> to lock the dial in place as the tool is drawn thru.  Or if you got the
> bucks or knowhow to made a degree wheel that is the easiest and most
> accurate.  Small number dies are used for markings.  I then fill the
> marking in with of all things, crayons.  Rub into the etching and then
> wipe off excess.  I've used all sorts of paints and application techniques
> but so far this is the nicest I've seen.  Try it on an old knob some
> time.
> There is a bit more to than that but that's the basics.  It's actually
> quite easy.  Most machine work is unless one's a real duffer.  It can be
> quit fun.  Why with a good engine lathe and some welding equipment you
> could build just about anything.
>
> Regards,
> Helm.  WB2ADT
>
>
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>
> ************************************
> Visit the HBR Receiver Web Site with over 100 pictures of receivers and
> construction notes...... via http://www.qsl.net/k5bcq/
>
> Retrieve reflector archived data via http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/hbr
>
>