[Hammarlund] Need HQ140 restoration help
Bernie
barcand at nccray.com
Sat Dec 1 23:04:40 EST 2012
Jim,
Welcome to the froup. I have a Hammarlund HQ-140XA (don't know what the "A"
is for). I had to replace the multi-section can capacitor in the power
supply section, so I forwarded To at Hayseed Hamfest my capacitor parts
list, gave him the dimensions of diameter & height, and he shipped me out a
custom made brand new one, same color coded wires, same positions as the old
one, and he has all that on file, so all you would haveto do is contact him
at: tom at hayseedhamfest.com and he can shoot you a price. Can't remember
what mine cost, but if you previous owner just cut to top off, or part of
the top off, you'll have the existing one to use as a guide in replacing
it...such as position, and where the wires go. I took a stout needle-nose
plier and just twisted the tabs off, then took a big soldering iron (my
Weller 8200N (140 watts) and just kept melting and pulling until it came
loose. Then cleaned up the remaining solder with a solder wick, shoved in
the new can and re-soldered the grounds and twisted the tabs, hooked up the
wires. Best draw a picture of the existing wires before you yank it out.
Some folks cut the bottoms open and put multiple standard caps of equal
rating in there, and fill it with something....but that's a messy job.
There are two schools of though regarding replacement of paper caps (waxed
ones)...if you are lucky enough to be able to afford and ESR meter, you can
meter each one and replace only the bad ones. Not having one, I always
order up a complete capacitor replacement kit for it from Tom at
Hayseed...probably around $40.00, because sooner or later they will fail
you. As for the rust spots...unless you are striving for a super authentic
looking receiver, I do just what you did...sand as much as possible, mask
off all the surrounding components, but a rattle can of primer and hit it
with a coat of that, and after dry, hit with a coat of either some
close-to-matching color, or I saw a can of clear enamel by Krylon yesterday
which you could coat the primer with.. It looked intriguing.
Keep the group posted with your progress...we'll help any way we can.
Bernie in ND
WD0GMD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Pruitt" <wa7duy at charter.net>
To: "Hammarlund QTH LIST" <hammarlund at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2012 7:42 PM
Subject: [Hammarlund] Need HQ140 restoration help
>I recently acquired a very poor shape HQ140X from a friend. He bought it
>to restore and cut open the filter cap and put new caps in it but went no
>further. I now have to figure out how to get the filter cap back into one
>piece but what I am looking for is advice on what is needed for this beast.
>
> The previous owner had stored it in a barn or garage (from what I
> understand from the person I got it from) and mice had used it for a
> bathroom. There is a bad rust spot in the back middle top of the chassis
> and on the back side (outside). I have sanded that spot but the rust
> appears to go pretty deep. Also the front lip inside the chassis has
> white corrosion all the way along it from mice urine (I assume). What
> should be used to remove the rust and what should be used to protect the
> chassis so the rust does not return?
>
> I am also unsure what to replace and what to keep. I started trying to
> replace all resistors but there are only 2 that appear to be original.
> The others look more like 60's vintage carbon and most are 5%. I have had
> trouble finding replacement 1/2w resistors but found a few at Fry's
> (although their selection is horrible) and did not get enough 2.2k. I
> also wanted to replace the 1watt resistors. So far only 1 of the 5 or 6
> resistors I have replaced has been out of spec. One of the 2.2k 1/2w
> resistors was 4k. I would like to replace the old resistors but they are
> the hard ones and I suspect that if the others were replaced before these
> were not replaced because they are in a hard spot to replace. Does anyone
> know of a good source for replacement 1/2w, 1w, and 2watt resistors and
> what type should be used (carbon film, metal oxide, flameproof, etc)?
>
> The paper caps are a no brainer and I am replacing those and the one loan
> electrolytic but the question is the same, what should and should not be
> replaced on general principals?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Jim Pruitt
>
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