[Hammarlund] Re: Hammarlund Digest, Vol 54, Issue 17

[bonddaleena at aol.com]

I have to agree with Pat. I have restored hundreds (yes!) of 
boatanchors and test equipment. I always use the 'snip and loop' 
method. Once I made a cool little tool to wind the leads of the new cap 
into 'curly pig tails'. It was more trouble than it was worth. I have 
NEVER had a problem with the described method. Trying to remove the 
original cap from a tube socket or terminal strip, is just ASKING for 
trouble. When I do a BA with a LOT of caps, I always try the radio 
after replacing a few. Waiting until you've done 20 or so, will bite 
you. At least it did me, ONCE!

Enjoy...

ron

N4UE

-----Original Message-----
From: hammarlund-request at mailman.qth.net
To: hammarlund at mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 4:01 am
Subject: Hammarlund Digest, Vol 54, Issue 17



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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: REPLACING COMPONENTS (Patrick)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 22:56:17 -0400
From: Patrick <wa4tuk-rf at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Hammarlund] REPLACING COMPONENTS
To: Magoo <magoo at isp.ca>
Cc: hammarlund at mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: <488FD851.7020901 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

A good observation.

I simply snip out the old cap leaving plenty of leads. I then turn a
small eyelet in the old lead and insert the lead from the new cap into
the eyelet and solder. There is nothing electrically wrong with this 
method.

Removing the solder and old lead from (for instance) a tube socket is
asking for a damaged socket.

If the goal was a museum piece instead of a reasonably working device
I'd leave everything alone (and not plug it in).

To each his own but if the wanted result is working equipment with
reasonable aesthetics the snip and replace method is ideal.

I do have a different take on the guys who restuff electrolytics.  
There
is sometimes a problem physically locating multiple electrolytics under
a chassis that restuffing cures.

Pat
wa4tuk

Magoo wrote:
>> From reading a pile of recent posts, I see that many "re-cappers" 
are
>> under
> the impression that one must de-solder the connection point and
> completely remove the old component.  There is no "rule" which says
> this is the accepted practice; in fact, those who insist on using 
this
> method in replacing components run the rist of introducing into their
> radios problems which were not there before.  Should you remove the
> old solder along with the desired component lead, there is always the
> risk that you will "miss" one of the other leads when you resolder.
> Then, let the fun begin!!
>
> Snip the old lead off and attach the new lead in whatever fashion
> makes you feel warm and fuzzy.  Just make certain that you flow the
> solder onto the whole connection using a gun or iron sized for the
> job.  It goes without saying that you should also test the radio 
after
> every two or three component replacements "just in case".  A
> well-soldered connection is as good both electrically and 
mechanically
> as one which is attached by threading the lead onto the attachment 
point.
>
> During the period when I worked repairing tube-type 2-way radio
> equipment in the 60s and 70s, much of which was used mobile, I never
> desoldered leads when replacing components.....I snipped them, and I
> do not recall ever seeing a radio come back to the shop with a
> disconnected component after being out in the field folllowing this
> type of repair.
>
> I group the guys who want to desolder leads with those who want to
> stuff old capacitor cans.....but then-this is only a hobby with room
> for every taste!
>
> Bill, VE3NH
> _______________________________________________
>



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End of Hammarlund Digest, Vol 54, Issue 17
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