[Hammarlund] Drilling Out Rivets

[jeremy-ca]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Thorusen" <entropycat at verizon.net>
To: "MICHAEL SOUHRADA" <wb9iog at msn.com>; <hammarlund at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Hammarlund] Drilling Out Rivets


> For Mike and the list... Greetings!
>
>   Mike writes:
>
>
> "   I must have missed the first post.
> My way works best. Use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel
> and slowly grind off the upset side. That is if you can get to
> it. Otherwise you might try the  grinding bits . Problem with
> drilling is the rivet starts spinning and you get no where.   "
>
>   If the rivet starts spinning, merely hold the drill at a slight angle to
> the axis of the rivet.   This will cut through the rivet regardless of 
> spin.
>
>   I personally don't like to use Moto-Tools because one slip and there is 
> a
> big gouge in the chassis that cannot be repaired... it really detracts 
> from
> the looks of the radio.
>
>   Just my $.02 worth.
>
> 73,
> Jim T.
> KB6GM
> entropycat at verizon.net

I agree Jim. I use air die grinders and Dremels on a regular basis when 
porting and relieving a Ford flathead but Id never use a Dremel to grind off 
a rivet in a collector radio. I see no way to do a perfect job without 
leaving a rash on the chassis; there is no way to control the rotary motion 
to perfection.

Ive never found a rivet yet that couldnt be drilled out in a short time.

In my HQ-120X the 6V6 socket is phenolic, the only ceramic sockets are for 
the RF and mixer; Hammarlund may have changed in a later run to save money. 
It will be a tight fit for a drill and may require removing the output xfmr. 
No room for a vacuum hose either while drilling.

When I was in the Navy the common issue radar display unit used 5R4's and 
ceramic sockets. The sockets were known to arc and it became SOP in the 
fleet to carry spares. I replaced a few.

Carl
KM1H





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