[Hammarlund] Painting SP-600 Panel

[Barry Hauser]

Hi Hammarpanelpainters:

Jerry Kincade writes:
> Any large marine dealer will have Zinc Chromate in spray cans, 
> because it's used on aluminum lower units of outboard engines. One very
light 
> coat will do it, followed by just enough Krylon Smoke Gray to cover, no
more. 

I use self-etching gray primer -- very lightly.  An alternative is a
product called Alum-Prep which is an echant, not a primer.  I also prefer
Rustoleum, but that goes on even thicker than Krylon. Rustoleum is much
tougher and less likely to chip.  However, it also takes a much longer
time to fully cure -- actually a few months.  Best to bake it at about
150 degrees in an oven or under heat lamps for a few hours.

> Extra coats will bring grief in the form of rounding and filling in the

> stampings, making the white lettering difficult to do cleanly.

Amen on that.  "Hmmm .. I think I can still see metal through it - just
another quick shot -- oops!"

> Letter stamping depth varies between panels, and sometimes between
areas of the same panel.

So true, and some if this variation may be the result of previous
refinishing which involved sanding, further obscuring the stampings.  If
the edges of the stampings are not sharp after stripping, a light sanding
with a sanding block can bring them up a bit, but don't overdo it.  Use a
nylon detailing brush or toothbrush to clean out the lettering
completely.

> If you are lucky and careful, it will all come out looking good.

At first, Jerry, I thought you had it backwards -- be careful and if
you're lucky.  But actually it's a 3-step:  First look in the mirror, aim
the spray can at the image (but don't pull the trigger), squint and say
"Are you feeling  lucky?!"  If you flinch or wimper, don't do it today. 
However, if you do feel lucky, then proceed very carefully and if you ARE
lucky, it will come out nice.  In any event, buy some extra cans of
stripper.  The good news is when it doesn't come out so great on the
first two tries, the fresh paint and primer comes off very easily (but
mess-ily).  Don't ask me how I know this. ;-)

> After the 
> panel is done to my satisfaction, I shoot on a light coat of Krylon
clear 
> matte overcoat to dull the Smoke Gray, which is a bit shiny for my
tastes. 
> One other thing: Allow some extra drying time before attempting the 
> white fill on the lettering - the gray paint will continue to shrink
some for a 
> while, and you don't want that process going on after you've put white
in 
> the letters, plus the shrinking actually helps to more sharply define 
> the lettering. 

Yes, it does shrink down, so don't jump to conclusions.  Baking will
accelerate the shrinking process.  So, what looks like a borderline case
may sharpen up after a few hours (or days) more.  You're also less likely
to mar the gray finish when you rub out the excess white fill.  It is
also possible to sharpen up some overfilled letters here and there with a
sharp tool, like a jeweler's screwdriver -- sometimes.  However, if a lot
of it looks overfilled -- i.e. rounded so it won't take the white clearly
-- best to strip the panel and start over.  You will get better at it
after a while.

> Lastly, Krylon is a bit brittle when fully dried. Don't 
> crank down on any panel screws or rack mount screws too much, it can
break 
> the surface bond and break off a flake of gray. This was learned the 
> hard way.

That's why RustOleum is often preferred.  RustOleum also has a
"Professional" line with a nice Machine Grey which is a good color for
the panels.  It has a quicker tack dry and curing time than regular
RustOleum.  However, don't do it.  It's even heavier than regular
RustOleum and dries to an orange peel finish.  It's intended for use on
rough stuff -- hand trucks, industrial things, whatever.  Comes in a
larger, silver can.  Don't ask me how I came to know that, either.

Barry

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