[Hammarlund] Graphite is NOT an Abrasive...it is TOO!

[Barry Hauser]

I think one of the key priciples involved here is the "The Law of It
Depends ..."

Moly lubricant was mentioned earlier.  I use some stuff from Dow called
"Metal Assembly Compound" which is a molybdenum paste.

Originally I bought this from a tech department at Hewlett-Packard as a
high temperature lube to use on laser printer geartrains.  Turns out it
wasn't so great for that -- mostly nylon and ABS gears.

The way the moly paste works is more like a polish.  The fine particles
of the soft metal fills the microscopic pits and pores of the surfaces,
essentially smoothing things out by adding rather than removing material.
 It is best used on sliding surfaces.  You don't apply it like grease or
oil, but rather like a simonize job -- rubbing and buffing it in, or
burnishing with a wood or plastic stick.  You wipe off the excess and
paste "vehicle" until practically dry.  If desired, you can then apply
some conventional lubricant, but an even smaller amount than usual, as
the surfaces are now filled and won't hold as much oil, nor is much
needed.

In the earlier posts there was discussion about how graphite particles
slide against each other, etc.  However, another factor is this
micro-filling of metal surfaces.  I thought that also applied to
graphite.  Unless I missed something, I didn't see anything about that.

I use the moly paste primarily on the mating halves of split gears, on
the edges of the slugracks in R-390's and the mating surfaces of the
RF-deck frames.  I will occasionally treat gear teeth with it by applying
like a grease and running the gears through their travel a number of
times, then wiping virtually all the loose paste away.  When used on a
piece of stainless, it tends to darken the color of the metal, even after
vigorous polishing with a dry rag.  That offers some "proof" that the
pits are filled, I guess.  The surfaces also feel more slick.  The paste
itself is jelly-like and even a bit sticky --doesn't work as a grease at
all.  However, once applied and cleaned off, there's no risk of
conductive stuff migrating and blowing around like graphite powder.  The
moly paste is of no use in bearings.

However, I suspect the graphite works similarly in a lock -- by filling
in the pits on the pins and maybe the notches on the key as well.  If a
pin is jammed, it's unlikely to help -- a solvent type product is needed.

Anybody have anything to add?  Anyone else use molybdenum compounds?

Barry

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