[Hallicrafters] SR2000 blower.

Jim Liles hallicrafterssr2000 at k9axn.com
Mon Feb 17 21:24:58 EST 2014


Good evening Richy:

Call the troops back and regroup.  That motor came in two shaft sizes 1/4 and 3/16 inch, the later ones being 3/16.  I have a few of the 3/16 version which are truly quiet along with new home brew shock absorbers.  If you have the 1/4 inch motor/blower, I slip a piece of 1/4” OD copper tubing with a 3/16” ID over the shaft and voila you have a quiet one.  The new motor starts much easier than the original and doesn’t rattle like the old one.

I replace the low speed 250 ohm 50 watt dropping resistor with a 350 ohm 50 watt brass one that heat sinks to the chassis.  Has to be mounted vertically where the old one was.  the old setup had the blower running in slow mode (Receive) like a 747 turbine; you had to make sure it started when the line voltage was 110 volts.  The new one starts at 50 to 70 volts easily and idles much quieter especially with the new shocks. 

Last point.  You have to balance the squirrel cage if you truly want a quiet system.

Kindest regards Jim K9AXN

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----Original Message----- 
From: Richy 
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2014 7:23 PM 
To: hallicrafterssr2000 at k9axn.com ; List Hallicrafters 
Subject: SR2000 blower. 


I just picked up a small lathe to try and make the oilite bearings for the blower motor on my SR2000. I tried heat shrinking them but its still noisy. I  think I could nail it in a few tries. I milled down the bearing housing mounting ears to tighten up the amount of float but the bushing shaft holes are worn. To simplify matters, I am going to order the stock with the shaft sizing already  drilled in  the center of the stock, all I  will have to do is the tapering and sizing of the outer part of the bushing which should be easy. If this goes ok, I will make a few sets if anyone needs them. If anyone has a donor motor, that would be good too so I can test them out of a rig. If anyone has a spare motor, let me know the cost to get it here. Just so everyone knows, the bearings are not designed to be replaced as the cover is stamped closed into the housing. I  mounted mine in the chuck of the lathe and "deburred" the tabs holding the cover on and it came apart. I  may try the lathe again and channel the inside of the housing to accommodate a c-clip. If anyone has any ideas to add, let me know. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel if I don't have to... ;-p  Richy N2ZD

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