[Hallicrafters] Wrinkle Paint

Carl km1h at jeremy.mv.com
Wed Apr 20 20:51:37 EDT 2011


Most shops in the USA no long acid dip due to the dips at the EPA. I never 
cared for it as the acid must be neutralized in another vat and its not 
always done right. Ive seen a few car bodies that the acid was still in 
hidden crevises and kept on eating at the metal.

An alkaline bath in Sodium Hydroxide works very well and does not bother 
virgin steel, do not use on any other metal besides ferrous ones unless you 
are very careful. I have use a very fast dip to etch aluminum panels and 
other parts for good paint adhesion.

I have a vat out back of the shop that I dip vintage engine blocks and heads 
in as well as cabinets. It doesnt work well under 4' of snow.

Carl
KM1H


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Daulton" <k5wms at centurytel.net>
To: <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>; "'rbethman'" <rbethman at comcast.net>
Cc: "'Roger Shultz'" <nj2r at verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] Wrinkle Paint


> Blasting with beads or other media is invasive. Better choice is CO2
> blasting, check local area for vendors.
>
> Rust removal products do not work with chemicals unless the item is
> degreased. A process popular with antique car restorers a few years
> back was to soak the item in tri-sodium phosphate(heated solution).
> This will remove the paint effectively and prepare for rust removal Do
> not use this process on aluminum. Tri-sodium phosphate is sold at most
> paint stores. A couple of teaspoons in a coffee can of water will bring
> paint brushes back to life overnight.
>
> An electrolytic process with ARM&HAMMER detergent is popular with some
> gun restorers, and Shopsmith and other tool restorers. A large plastic
> garbage can is used with a stainless steel anode. A variable dc soource
> is recommended. Google ARM&Hammer rust removal.
>
> Evap-o-rust is a very good product for rust removal. A bit pricey it is
> sold at auto parts stores. About $8.95/qt and $22.00/gal. Google
> EVAP-O-RUST. I used it for restoring 4 Shopsmith machines and
> accessories in the last 5 years.
>
> I havent tried it but Kool-aid is supposed to be good as are carbonated
> beverages. The carbolic acid and citric acid works well on rust removal.
>
> Radiator shops and engine shops often have vats to remove paint, rust
> and grease. May be a bit harsh for
> radio cabinets.
>
> I am just about to start on the spare cabinet for my SX-43. I will
> strip it with auto paint stripper and take it to a friend who has a
> large tank set up for the Arm&Hammer process.
>
> Paul k5wms
>
> Quoting rbethman <rbethman at comcast.net>:
>> Roger,
>>
>> Unless the cabinet is REALLY rough, I'd say have it bead-blasted.  That
>> uses glass beads in lieu of sand used in sand blasting.
>>
>> It sure removes the paint and primer, BUT it won't remove the metal -
>> UNLESS whomever is doing it hasn't a clue!
>>
>> I've had several items done that way.  It was worth it!
>>
>> My $0.02 worth.
>>
>> Bob - N0DGN
>>
>> On 4/20/2011 4:31 PM, Roger Shultz wrote:
>> > On the subject of wrinkle finishes, what do you think is a
>> reasonable charge
>> > (i.e. that hams would be willing to pay) for a complete inside/outside
>> > sandblasting the recoating in black wrinkle for an equivalent  cabinet 
>> > the
>> > size of a Hammarlund HQ-129X cabinet?
>> >
>> > Enquiring minds are curious?
>> >
>> > 73, Roger, NJ2R
>>
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>
> Paul Daulton K5WMS
> beacon WMS 185.302 khz qrss30/slow 24/7
> Jacksonville,Ar 72076
> em34wu
>
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