[Hallicrafters] Removal of chassis green oxide
wa1kbq at aol.com
wa1kbq at aol.com
Thu Oct 28 18:29:40 EDT 2010
I think it could Carl but you would want to be careful about that and
just lightly dampen the cloth enough to produce the desired result.
This is obviously a compromise remedy for a situation where disassembly
is not going to happen but in any event it should end up looking far
better than the cadmium oxide residue it has on it now. WD-40 is mostly
a stoddard solvent carrier with a small percentage of active
ingredients and if you didn't get it completely dry the solvent will
soon evaporate and leave behind a very thin protective film of beeswax
and rust inhibitor. You won't know it's there if you go light on the
application though. Probably not a bad trade for what sounds like a
chassis that does not look too good right now. I wouldn't necessarily
recommend it for one in otherwise good shape but it sounded like from
the original question he wants to improve the appearance and our
options are limited.
Regards, Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl <km1h at jeremy.mv.com>
To: hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net; wa1kbq at aol.com
Sent: Wed, Oct 27, 2010 8:39 am
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] Removal of chassis green oxide
Doesnt WD-40 attract dirt and a messy build up after awhile? Its not
possible to remove it all during the wipe down.
Carl
KM1H
----- Original Message -----
From: <wa1kbq at aol.com>
To: <larryw0hxs at yahoo.com>; <hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2010 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] Removal of chassis green oxide
> It's not an "A" version so this mean you are dealing with clear cad
> rather than yellow cad. If it were disassembled the oxidation would be
> simple to remove with either phosphoric acid or sodium bisulfate and
> then neutralized with water and 409/ammonia. Attempting to clean
> without disassembly means limited use of water and detergents and
> probably means having to accept some compromises.
>
> There is a method that might work after a fashion however it will
> likely not draw many praises from the experienced hands here. In the
> very least you should remove the tubes and other easy parts to get as
> much additional access as possible. Get an assortment of various
> brushes including old tooth brushes and paint brushes but be sure to
> tape over the metal bands to prevent accidentally scratching aluminum
> parts. You will also need a shop vac with a hose and nozzle plugged on
> the blowing side and you will want to work outside on an old card
> table, etc. Put a particle mask on and start brushing and blowing
until
> you are satisfied with your results. Next spray some WD-40 on a shop
> cloth and start wiping the chassis down. This will hide most of the
> remaining surface discoloration and return the chassis finish to a
> somewhat better appearance.
>
> Regards, Greg
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Woodworth <larryw0hxs at yahoo.com>
> To: hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Sun, Oct 24, 2010 11:57 pm
> Subject: [Hallicrafters] Removal of chassis green oxide
>
>
> The gifted SX-101 Mk 3 is from long time storage and little use.
Before
> testing
> for other needs, I want to remove as much of that chassis oxide as is
> practical
> without any dis-assembly. Much of the under chassis is so coated with
> the
> powdery green stuff that it wipes off but still leaves a heavy tinted
> coloration. I hope to find a method for it's removal. Tried alcohol,
> peroxide(50%), and plain water using Q-tips.
>
> I wonder if someone has used a better method that works for this
> problem. Thanks
>
> for any suggestions.
>
> Larry Woodworth W0HXS
>
> Marshall Ensor Memorial Museum Manager
> Olathe, KS
>
> www.W9BSP-W9UA.org
>
>
>
>
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