[Hallicrafters] How to apply decals, Halli or otherwise

[Bob Macklin]

My only comment about this process is that while the solvent is working on
the decal just don't touch it. The wrinkling will disappear when it dries.

Bob Macklin
K5MYJ
Seattle, Wa,
"Real Radios Glow in the Dark"
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Everette" <radiocompass at yahoo.com>
To: "Duane Fischer, W8DBF" <dfischer at usol.com>; "Jim Brannigan"
<jbrannig at optonline.net>; "Bob Macklin" <macklinbob at msn.com>; "jeremy-ca"
<km1h at jeremy.mv.com>; "WØQFC" <erastber at tampabay.rr.com>; "HALLICRAFTERS"
<hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 10:55 AM
Subject: [Hallicrafters] How to apply decals, Halli or otherwise


> Decals work very well when properly applied.
>
> Been there/done this many, many times when building
> scale model aircraft, in particular.  Most model
> aircraft paints are a flat finish, so I know this does
> work!
>
> If you will use a model railroading product called
> "Walthers Solvaset," the decals can be applied over a
> dull finish.
>
> First, dampen the panel with plain water.  Slide the
> decal onto the panel and position it; a small camel
> hair brush works well but you might have a straight
> pin and X-Acto knife (SHARP curved blade) handy too.
>
>                       ATTENTION
> Another product for this purpose is "Champ Decal-Set,"
> sold by Champion Decal Co. for model railroad use.
> It's a little less strong than Solvaset, and a little
> more forgiving of greenhorn mistakes.
>
> When the decal is positioned, apply the Solvaset
> around the edges of the decal and let it work
> underneath.  The decal may wrinkle.  Don't freak out.
> Just use the brush VERY carefully to smooth it out, as
> it dries.
>
> Also apply the Solvaset ON TOP of the decal.  It will
> seep through the film and really make the decal
> tightly adhere to the paint.
>
> If you see silvering in the surface it means there is
> air beneath the decal.  In that case, prick the
> bubbles with the pin or the knife blade tip -- DON'T
> drag the knife over the decal, and "rock" the curved
> X-Acto blade over the decal to open up more paths for
> the Solvaset to soak through.
>
> Apply more Solvaset if needed.
>
> Keep smoothing the decal surface but work CAREFULLY.
> This process may take a while, so BE PATIENT.
>
> Once the decal is almost dry, and stable, CAREFULLY
> blot it with a Q-tip if wrinkles remain.  You may need
> a little more Solvaset.
>
> When everything is dry, (And this could take several
> hours, maybe even 24 hours) GENTLY wash away the
> Solvaset residue with water and the small brush.  Blot
> up the wet.
>
> When everything is GOOD and dry, after all this, spray
> the panel with Testors Dullcote, an aerosol.
>
> You won't see the decal film.
>
> Heyyyyy -- where are the decals available?  I could
> use some for an S-76 and an R-46 speaker.  Are they
> green (preferably) or white, or both?
>
> 73
>
> Mike
> WA4DLF
>
>
>
>
>
>
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