[Hallicrafters] SX-28A Restoration Question

[Dave Harmon]

PB Blaster is awesome stuff.
Last year I moved and took down a Tri-Ex tower that had been up for 28
years. 
If I had not known about PB Blaster, that tower would still be there!!
I got it at Pep Boys auto parts.
It stinks though.....

Regards

Dave Harmon
NSRCA 586
K6XYZ[at]valornet[dot]com
Broken Arrow, Ok.

-----Original Message-----
From: hallicrafters-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:hallicrafters-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of pete wokoun,
sr.
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 9:29 PM
To: hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] SX-28A Restoration Question

Mark,
  Your socket mounting plates may be 'rusted' but the gound lugs between

those plates and the chassis may still have a decent contact.
  In line with Mike's suggestion, another product I would use is Caig's 
ProGold G5 which bills itself as a metal conditioner for connectors, 
switches, and contacts.
  If the rust bothers you there are rust neutralizers on the market.
  Never heard about PB Blaster or Never-Dull before...will look for it
and 
try it myself.

pete



>From: Mike Everette <radiocompass at yahoo.com>
>To: Mark K3MSB <mark.k3msb at gmail.com>,List Hallicrafters 
><hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net>
>Subject: Re: [Hallicrafters] SX-28A Restoration Question
>Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 18:46:17 -0800 (PST)
>
>Mark,
>
>I think you are asking for it, big time, if you try to
>replace the sockets. You're going to be sticking a
>drill into some extremely close quarters.  Lots of
>chance for damaging the radio and for making a bunch
>of wiring errors.  If you have started recapping, you
>know how tough it is to work with the solder joints in
>these receivers; the solder has a very high melting
>point and the wiring insulation can be quite brittle.
>Plus, there is very little slack in the wiring.  If
>you haven't been there yet, you're going to find out
>real soon.
>
>Try this:
>
>At an automotive store, find a penetrating oil called
>"PB Blaster."  It's an aerosol type.
>
>Push a cotton swab against the hole in the spray head
>and GENTLY soak the swab.  Then, push the wet swab
>against the rivets and against the chassis adjacent to
>them.  Allow the oil to soak into the riveted joint.
>This is very "fine" oil and it will do this.
>
>If you wet down the metal rings on the sockets --
>note, DO NOT "hose" them!  Do this with a swab! -- and
>then let it set up a while, you might be able to
>remove some or perhaps all the visible rust with a
>typewriter eraser or an abrasive (sanding) stick.
>
>The PB Blaster will penetrate the joints and break up
>the corrsion that may lurk there.  You may want to do
>this a couple of times.  Then after everything has set
>up for a day or two, go back in with an aerosol
>equipment degreaser or even an organic solder flux
>remover, and re-soak the joints to get the residue
>out.
>
>DO NOT allow the PB Blaster to get into a coil or an
>IF can.  DO NOT DO NOT let it get on a dial.  I am not
>sure what would happen in either case, and I don't
>want to go there to find out.  However, this stuff is
>a super corrosion buster, and also is great to use for
>cleaning up an oxidized chassis, when followed by a
>product called Never-Dull, a cotton polishing-wadding
>with some kind of chemical in it.
>
>BEWARE, the PB Blaster is very strong stuff and should
>be used with plenty of ventilation.  It's flammable
>too.  Watch out.
>
>Liquid Wrench might be just as good, but I know PB
>Blaster will git-er-done.  Just BE CAREFUL with it.
>
>73
>
>Mike
>WA4DLF
>
>
>
>
>
>
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