[Hallicrafters] Test equipment

[Bill Gerhold]

You definitely want a URM-25D.  They are on the most popular auction sites.
For Hallicrafters equipment, they are the best.  I have (2) of them.

K2WH

-----Original Message-----
From: hallicrafters-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:hallicrafters-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kenneth G.
Gordon
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 6:03 PM
To: Hallicrafters at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Hallicrafters] Test equipment


   > Good morning, I want to start restoring a HT-32 and a SX-100. Buying
   a

   >  scope  is  not  in  the  budget  at  this time. What pieces of test
   equipment

   >  should  you  get in order to do the job right. Tnx for reading this
   and 73's

   > Dave WB6BIL.

   The basic instruments you should have are these:

   A decent signal generator, one that covers down to 50 Khz or below,

   a cheap frequency counter, both ANALOG and digital VOMs, and a

   good VTVM are about all that is REQUIRED.

   ALL of these can be bought on Ebay for very reasonable prices.

   Now for some details:

   Many Military sig gens are suitable. AN/URM-25 series would be perfect
   for  your  uses.  It has two outputs, one of which can be dedicated to
   your cheap frequency counter. It also covers down to 10 Khz.

   You could also use a good BC-221 or LM frequency meter. Those can

   be  bought  for  as  little as $5 on Ebay. I bought two, one which had
   never

   been used, for $9 each. However, they don't go lower than 125 Khz, so

   you couldn't align the SX-101's 50 Khz IF with them. Also, they are

   rather unhandy to use, although VERY accurate and VERY stable. Only

   the -AJ -AK and -AL models of the BC-221 have a choice of modulated

   output. ALL the LM models have that feature though. ALL these require

   an external AC supply, which you normally have to build yourself.

   Power requirements are very modest and the PS is easily built

   from Radio Shack parts.

   I use my BC-221s for aligning receivers' Antenna, RF, and mixer

   stages.  I set one at the top of each band I am aligning and the other
   at  the  bottom.  That  way  I  don't have to keep tuning one back and
   forth. Other restorers I know do the same thing.

   HP-8640-B's are excellent signal generators, and are selling for very

   reasonable prices now, ALTHOUGH you have to be VERY careful that

   the  nylon  tuning  gear train is in good shape. This many years after
   their

   manufacture,  those  gears  are getting very brittle and break easily,
   and

   there are no known sources for new gears.

   VTVM:  Heathkits  are  quite  good, and fairly cheap. Or, if you could
   find

   a good working HP-410 series that would be a definite plus.

   The Simpson 260 analog VOM is the best, but there are many others

   that will do a good job.

   Rat Shack has both digital and analog VOMs, and Harbor Freight has

   been selling an excellent DMM for as little as $9.99

   Heathkit and other frequency counters are good. There are many, many

   "off-brand" freq counters that are very cheap and work well. Rat Shack

   has them too.

   You also should have some sort of cap checker, especially for checking

   our old BAs.

   Heathkit made quite a number of different models of them. I have two

   old  Heathkit  C-3s  that  I have completely rebuilt, which have saved
   quite

   a number of unobtainium power transformers. They are very easy to

   use and surprisingly accurate.

   There are two of those for sale on Ebay right now starting at $10 or

   less.

   BTW, I can send you an article on those that I wrote for ER magazine

   about a year ago if you would like to read it.

   Heathkit's  later  models,  i.e.  IT-11  or  IT-28 are excellent. Do a
   search  on  Ebay for Heathkit cap* to see what turns up. Cap. checkers
   were   also   made  by  other  companies  like  Eico,  Sprague  (their
   TelOhmMike),  B&K,  others.  One of the best is the  Sprague TelOhMike
   TO-6.

   You could possibly get a good tube checker, although the best "tube

   tester"  is  simply  substitution of a known good tube. Nonetheless, a
   tube

   checker is good for finding shorted or extremely leaky tubes, or those

   whose filaments are burnt out. Just don't expect too much from even

   the best of them.

   Again, Heathkit's TC series are good, and fairly

   inexpensive. You can pay a LOT for one of the premium tube checkers,

   BTW. Like the military TV-2B/U or one of the later Hickock or Triplett

   units. I have both a TV-2/U and a Triplett 3444 here.

   Actually, you will find that a really decent 'scope is far more useful
   than a tube tester.

   I  have  found  that  Ebay is an excellent source for really top-notch
   test

   equipment at reasonable prices. You might keep your eye out for a

   good scope there. Heathkit, Tektronix, HP, B&K and others are

   generally  good.  You  can  get a perfectly serviceable scope for very
   little. I have seen perfectly good ones going on Ebay for $10 or less.

   If  you DO get a scope, don't forget the probes. You can get good ones
   from  MPJA.com (Marlin P. Jones) for about $10/probe.

   Personally,  I  wouldn't  work  without  a  scope.  It is the handiest
   instrument in any electronic shop.

   Lastly, you might also keep your eye out for a good grid-dip meter.

   Hope this helps. If you have any further questions, just ask.

   Ken Gordon W7EKB
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