[Hallicrafters] Need Advice on HT-32A Meter

[Edward B Richards]

For meters that won't mechanically zero with power off; check the spiral
springs at both sides of the coil. A shock can cause one turn to hop over
an adjacent turn. I have fixed several meters by gently moving the
displaced spring back where it belongs, Good luck.

73, Ed Richards K6UUZ



On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 14:50:20 -0000 "Rocco Lardiere"
<lardiere at ix.netcom.com> writes:
> Greg,
>
> One thing to do is to rotate the meter compression control through 
> its full
> range when transmitting into a dummy load  (you should try some 
> DeOxit on
> the pot first).  Use a real dummy load and a power meter (ditch the 
> light
> bulb!), and make certain the power output is being peaked - if you 
> transmit
> for more than a few seconds without being in resonance, your finals 
> will not
> last long.  If the transmitter loads normally with reasonable power 
> out
> (50-90 W is adequate), the meter compression control should allow 
> the meter
> to be set to full scale.   The meter compression control is used to 
> set the
> output meter to full scale at full output, so the circuit works like 
> an
> older SWR bridge in the forward position and indicates relative, not
> absolute power out.  If there is no meter indication, measure the 
> voltage
> across the meter when the transmitter is putting out power using a 
> high
> impedance multimeter.  Rotate the "meter compression control" 
> through its
> full range while you do this.
> 
> Check all connections to and components associated with the original 
> meter
> by tracing out the circuit from the schematic.  The connections at 
> the rear
> of the meter are not easy to tell apart - it may not be connected 
> properly.
> Check for poor soldering or other evidence that someone has been 
> there
> before you.  Viewed from the rear, you should see the 5.6 K resistor 
> between
> the top terminal and the right bottom.  You should also see the .01 
> cap
> between the two bottom terminals.  The schematic diagram shows the 
> rear of
> the meter correctly with respect to left/right and top/bottom, and 
> you
> should be able to trace everything.
> 
> If something requires checking the components at the back of the 
> meter
> connection screws, remember to loosen only the OUTER nut on the 
> meter
> connection screws through the bakelite - sometimes the screw is 
> soldered at
> the back, and rotating the screw can break the connecting wire 
> inside (where
> you can't see it).  Components are not always where they should be.
> 
> If the HT-32A meter is, indeed, bad, you will need to fix it or 
> replace it.
> One of my HT-32B's has a meter that won't mechanically zero, and I 
> found a
> replacement via this list that is ready to install, when I have a 
> few
> minutes).  So they may be a bit delicate, and if yours is truly bad, 
> it
> could be a shock-induced problem.  There a few meter rebuilders out 
> there -
> but I have not used them and can't recommend one.  If you are 
> absolutely
> certain that the meter is bad, you can try to disassemble it - but 
> that is
> not a job for the faint of heart.  There have been articles on that 
> over the
> years - it is delicate work and complicated to describe.
> 
> Let us know what you find.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Rocco N6KN
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <WA1KBQ at aol.com> . . .
> 
> 
> > Before I dig in to trouble shoot a non-working front panel "DB" 
> meter on
> an
> > HT-32A has anyone run into this before on one of these? Is there a
> previous
> > history for any common faults on HT-32A meters? The transmitter 
> lights a
> light
> > bulb dummy load on all bands but the meter is totally inoperable 
> for
> registering
> > RF.
> >
> > Thanks, Greg
> >
> 
> 
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