[Hallicrafters] Packing to Survive
GARDGORE at aol.com
GARDGORE at aol.com
Sun Jun 30 22:51:54 EDT 2002
Please excuse my late reply to this thread. I get to the mailbox only on
weekends and I wanted to throw my .02 in on this one. I have shipped and
received well over a hundred boatanchors over the years so have learned a
little through practical experience about what works and what doesn't.
Packing material that will help support the shape of the box, absorb energy
from falling and dropping and not allow the contents to shift around inside
is the key. IMHO there is no substitute for wrapping with many layers
(several inches) of large size bubble wrap in two directions and packing in a
good tight fitting well taped strong box. If the item is heavy (like the
earlier mentioned SX-28) I recommend cutting 2" thick styrofoam sheet (from a
home improvement store) and lining between the boxes in a double boxing
arrangement. If the item isn't as heavy you might get by OK with styrofoam
peanuts between the boxes but please don't use them as your packing material
of choice in the primary box. The radio will swim around inside the box and
move toward one of the six sides where the cabinet will then be vulnerable to
a direct hit. Other things to consider:
1) Apply masking tape to glass dial covers to help prevent breakage.
2) Add packing inside, pack around and over tubes to keep them from shaking
out.
3) Remove the tuning knobs to keep from transferring force into the
mechanisms. The surface area of those large knobs will transfer a lot of
force behind the panel.
4) Or leave the knobs on and prepare a styrofoam pad with cut-outs for the
knobs. Wrap the cabinet with Saran wrap first to keep the styrofoam from
chaffing the paint.
5) Make sure the rear chassis cabinet screws are in place so the front panel
won't be buckled when they drop the box and it happens to be upside down at
the time. These are often left out by a previous owner after a repair or
maintenance job.
6) Mark your work as you pack so that the radio will be boxed to travel right
side up. Right side up is better if you can get it. There is more to it of
course, I have only touched on the highlights. Basically for things going out
here I try to pack to survive being thrown down a flight of stairs. This is
necessary because I have observed the UPS driver in action at our business
where he throws open his back door, jumps up inside and begins tossing
packages that are for us out the back and onto the pavement. SX-28 anyone?
Remember, When the radio was new and was packed for shipping by the original
manufacturer they had engineers work out the design of all the packing
material and boxes to be as sure as possible of safe delivery. Can we
reasonably expect to get by with just putting it in an old box with some
crumpled newspaper? With the increase in popularity of internet buying and
selling more and more of our old radio equipment will be lost to mostly
avoidable shipping damage.
Regards, Greg
PS- A few more cautions: Close the tuning condensers. Remove crystal and wrap
separately. Wrap the lid with Saran wrap separately to keep from chaffing the
paint in the cabinet opening. Don't tape anything to the cabinet finish-
paint could pull. Wrap power cord separately to prevent plug prongs from
gouging away at the paint.
Pad the front a little extra and add additional padding underneath the set in
the primary box. If the set is rare, heavy and valuable (SX-88, RME-9, AGSX,
PRO-310, NC-400, etc.) or has heavy transformers mounted on a relatively thin
chassis I advise to just go get it. I know this is not for everyone but
because not many folks will go to the trouble to pack correctly you are
taking too big a chance of wrecking something that in many cases not very
many are remaining.
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