[Hallicrafters] Boatanchor Packing -- Very Long

[Barry Hauser]

On Fri, 27 Dec 2002 19:55:01 -0700 "Bill Pancake"
<bpancake at mindspring.com> writes:
> I need to ask for some expert help from those of you who have 
> successfully packed and shipped a heavy Halli. I've got to pack & 
> ship a near mint SX-62 (64 pounds). It will travel across six states 
> to get to its destination.

<snipped>

Hi Bill:

You came to the right place.  Here are specific packing recommendations
for the SX-62:

First, prepare the radio itself.

1.  Check the outer and inner dial glass.  These are probably the most
vulnerable parts. It's easier to remove and replace the glass with the
receiver resting on its back.  (Nothing protrudes, but don't scrunch or
cut the line cord.) Remove the small calibrator knob and the six small
phillips screws that hold the aluminum escutcheon.  Don't lose those
screws -- they're hard to match up.  Then you might just check the outer
glass to make sure the clips and rubber extrusions are in place and snug.
 One step further would be to remove the outer glass and check to make
sure the inner one (with the dial printing on the reverse) is not loose. 
It mounts up similarly to the outer glass, but is a job to get at.  If it
is loose, put several small pieces of strong tape (duct or filament) from
the glass to the normally hidden part of the front panel -- without
covering any screw holes.  The tape should be taught so as to dampen any
movement.  Check that the two hidden panel screws are in place and tight.
Snug up th the other two while you're at it.  Then replace the outer
glass, making sure the clips and rubber extrusions (channels) hold it
firmly.  Replace the escutcheon and calibration knob -- but DO NOT
overtighten the six small screws or you'll dimple and crush the
escutcheon.  These were particularly soft on the earlier models.  (It may
already be slightly dimpled -- don't make it worse.)

2.  While you have the receiver on its back or side, check that the
bottom rear chassis bolts/screws are in place and tight.  If they're
missing and the unit is placed upside down, or gets a rough ride, the
chassis can lift up in the back and things can get bent.  Those screws
are standard, but an odd size -- maybe 10-24 rather than -36 thread.  If
you can't find any screws to fit, then brace the top of the power
transformer so it's snug against the lid.  

3.  Remove the 5U4 rectifier tube and bubble-wrap it.  Just tape up with
scotch tape to keep it from falling out.  That tube is right up against
the transformer and tends to wobble or fall out as it only has five of
the 8 pins. Place it in the big open space on the chassis (where the
bandspread capacitor is on the SX-42)  Check that the rest of the tubes
are firmly in their sockets.   LIGHTLY stuff the top of the chassis with
bubble wrap or loosely crumpled newspaper.  This will catch any
"projectiles" that might fly loose.  Put a little something around the
four big tubes up front -- the two 6V6's, the regulator, etc.

Unless someone can think of something else, that completes preparation of
the receiver.  Oh -- roll up the line cord and put some bubblewrap or
paper around it.  A loose plug can do damage.  You may be able to pull it
through into the top of the chassis area -- then roll it up and
rubberband it, etc.

OK, the packing.  Standard BA procedure:  

1.  Double box with good quality doublewall corrugated cartons.  The best
ones are free -- used computer and appliance boxes.  I believe U-Haul has
some, but be careful as many of theirs are for people carrying their own
pillows, etc.  Some UPS depots have good cartons.  Don't go to the
storefront places -- forget it.  If necessary, you can use a sturdy
singlewall box as the inner carton, but the outer one must be sturdy.  If
you don't have some cartons from something you bought -- try computer and
appliance stores.  They never seem to have the packing for the demos and
floor samples -- they must toss the things.

2.  The radio should be well braced at its strong points within the inner
carton, particularly the SX-62.  The inner box should allow at least two
inches of space all around, and extra in the front.  You mentioned that
this radio is practically "mint".  Protect the radio surfaces with poly
wrap or bubblewrap -- mainly to avoid abrasion damage to the paint. Brace
the front by the corners and bottom edge, well under the knobs.  Use
styrofoam board, sold as insulation at lumber yards, Home Depot, etc. 
Cut it carefully to fit.  Put a strip of board along the bottom edge, or
use folded up cardboard.  You can also brace the middle of the front
panel, provided that the bracing is well clear of the glass -- i.e. carve
it out.  It is not necessary and may be a bad move to fill the voids in
the front with newspaper, peanuts or bubblewrap.  A sharp blow, face-down
drop or crash could conduct the force to the glass.  The bracing should
be such that you would feel confident dropping the box about a foot or so
face down without breaking the glass or jamming the knobs and controls. 
BTW -- like many Halli's, the SX-62 has a bandswitch that runs full front
to back.  If that knob/shaft were to be jammed backward ... well, I don't
want to think about it.  Again, that's why you BRACE, don't "pad". 
Incidentally, the styrofoam inserts that come in computer system,
appliance and large monitor boxes can come in handy, particularly for
crafting the front bracing.  You will find it easier to make up the front
stuff first, cutting, shaping and taping the pieces together as a unit.
Then place the bracing in the carton, put the radio up against it, and
fill the back with board until all is snug.

3.  The sides, back and bottom of the radio are more rugged than most. 
An inch or two of foam all around should do it -- for the inner carton. 
The sides should be cut so the top layers of foam board rest on them. 
This adds vertical strength.  Seal it up, but mark the carton as where
the top and front of the radio are positioned.

4.  You need a good doublewall outer carton that provides at least 2-3
inches of padding space all around.  Chances are, this carton will be too
tall -- slice the corners down a bit and re-score the flaps to overlap. 
Before you do anything, re-tape the bottom if it's a used carton.  Often
the original tape consists of one strip down the middle and is partly
split.  Put at least two layers of tape up the middle and on each
side/corner seam.  As an added touch, before taping, a few spots of
hot-melt glue or whatever you have, can be put on the flaps.  This adds
quite a bit of strength.

5.  Line the bottom first allowing plenty of drop cushioning.  Cut the
styrofoam so it's tight to the sides and corners.  This adds strength to
the package and maximizes the crush zones at the bottom corner.  Now put
the inner package into the outer carton.  This can be awkward -- reaching
over and out, etc.  Put the big carton down on its side.  Put the packed
radio on it's side also onto one of the flaps of the big one, and just
slide it in.  Then pivot the whole business rightside up.  

6.  Center the inner carton and precision fit the sides.  Use cardboard
shims as needed.  Again, the top foam board should overlap all four
sides.  Mark front and top and seal it up.  If this is a new carton, the
old gummed reinforced tape is one of the best choices.  However it won't
stick well to glossy surfaces or existing plastic tape.  So, in most
cases, you'll be using plastic tape and several layers on all seams. 
Plastic tape goes parallel to the seams, not at right angles.  However,
you might want to further reinforce with plastic filament tape -- the
whitish stuff with cord running longwise through it.  That does go at
right angles to the seams.  If you use this tape, be sure to cover it
over with regular plastic sealing tape.  It has a tendency to unravel and
get stuck in the carriers' equipment.  Some UPS places won't accept it if
it is uncovered.  Again, you could also use a bit of hot melt glue to
batten down the hatches before sealing.  But don't use too much or the
guy who gets the thing will have a heckuva time opening it.

7.  Choice of carrier:  UPS or Fedex Ground.  Lately Fedex seems to be
getting higher marks and they run a bit cheaper than UPS.  But, most
agree -- it's mostly the packing.  Some things to know about FEDEX
Ground.  If you specify "residential" address, it will  revert to Fedex
"Home Delivery".  There's a 70 lb. limit and a size restriction also.  If
the package is oversized or over 70 lbs., specify Fedex Ground but do not
indicate "residential".  It's some kind of Catch 22 thing.  I get Fedex
ground packages as heavy as 150 lbs and well oversized delivered to my
home all the time.   If it's under the limit, Fedex Home delivers on
Saturday.  UPS and Fedex Ground do not.  At the moment, for Fedex Ground,
you have to go to a Fedex staffed depot or specifically "Ground"
affiliate.  You can look this up on their website.  The do not have
pickup for this as they do for their express services.  UPS has next day
pickup and the base rate is often a few dollars LESS than the base rate
for "customer counter", however there is a flat $3-5 visit charge.  You
also have to give the driver a check for the exact amount -- they don't
take cash.  Whether Fedex or UPS, generously insure it -- the first $100
is included, only 35 cents per additional 100 coverage.

Some swear by Greyhound, but the bus has to be met on both ends of the
trip.  Apparently, there's  much less handling involve.  Some UPS depots
sell good cartons (which they can't argue with in the event of a claim)
and in-place foam for a reasonable fee -- something like $15-20. 
Availablity varies on a local basis.  With the SX-62, I would still do
the inner carton packing and bracing myself and have them put the whole
business in a UPS carton with inplace foam.  That stuff is fairly stiff
and if it's right up against the glass .... well.

DO NOT be tempted to have this "professionally packed" and shipped at a
storefront place, chain, franchise or otherwise.  Most all of these
overcharge for flimsy singlewall cartons ($8 and up), bubblewrap and
often used peanuts.  They mark up the UPS by anywhere from 10 to 110
percent over the direct price and charge for labor to (badly) pack your
stuff.  Then, if there's damage, they are the shipper of record and any
claim has to go through them.  Even though some (MBE's) have a
relationship with UPS, there's no added assurance there at all.

Whew!  I really ought to put this up on a web page somewhere.  Maybe a
page on the Halli site?

Review the steps, take your time and take pride in assisting this piece
of history travelling from from point A to point B for a few days --
intact after surviving a half century beforehand.

It's worth the effort.

Barry

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