So, I would like to be prepared with shipping screws for my Model 33, and I
also need screws for bolting it to its stand. Can I just confirm please:
Shipping screws: Three 10-32 1" long
Stand screws: 6-40? What length please?
Thanks
Rob
-----Original Message-----
Sent: 04 February 2025 21:31
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] [External] Just bought an Ebay ASR33 in the UK
I have finally managed to buy an ASR33 in the UK.
It's in a bit of sorry state ...
...any suggestions or observations ...
It looks entirely reparable. The one I fixed took more work:
Before you move it, beware:
a) Do not lift by the paper-tape reader or punch "outriggers." These are
fragile, not designed to carry the weight. Lift by the front and back.
b) Do not tip on its back or side unless you install shipping screws and
understand how to install them.
c) It is not hard to remove the top of the TTY from its pedestal. 4
screws that
you access from below after removing the back of the pedestal. Some TTYs
have a power supply mounted in the pedestal. This unplugs.
d) Once the top and pedestal are separated, the top would fit easily on a
car
seat, and aside from worrying about denting the metalwork, the pedestal is
not delecate.
One of the annoying aspects of fixing these things is that Teletype
Corporation liked using relatively obscure screws -- like 6-40 UNF. 6-32
UNC is
common. 32 threads per inch. 6-40 is relatively rare, the same diameter,
but
40 threads per inch. This was no problem for the company, they made their
own screws. If you have the tools to make your own screws, it won't be a
problem for you, but you can't buy these screws at the local discount
store,
they are relatively rare.
Many standard radio knobs will fit the line-local switch on the front.
The
platten knob is harder, but there are people who've 3-D printed
replacements.
You really can, with care and careful documentation, disassemble the thing
almost all the way. The worst part of reassembly is sticking all the
springs
back on their hooks. I would avoid total disassembly, but if you break it
down
into large subassemblies, it is not difficult to clean, unstick, de-grease
and re-
lubricate the pieces. I strongly recommend working incrementally, and
make
a point of labeling each part you remove. I made a bunch of light
cardboard
tags that I tied with string to parts, so I could remember the order they
were
removed in and from where. References page numbers and drawings in the
manual are a useful way to work the labels.
If you have to remove the keyboard, bind the end plates to the sides with
a
few wraps of wire so they don't spring loose. If you do let them get
loose,
reassembly is difficult (far from impossible, I had to do this to replace
keycaps
and one of the encoder blocks.)
Doug Jones
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