I need to make a similar repair. Was considering using Sugru, or 3D printing a new version of the broken off bit and epoxying it in.

Not sure when I will have time, but the 33 "Teletype" metal faceplate looks easy enough to make out of an aluminum sheet and the printing something that wouldn't be hard to clone with a laser cutter and some Cermark.

That stamped radius edge on the modem blanking plate would be a pain though. I'd be inclined to mill it from bar stock and paint to spec if the original paint can still be sourced, but that gets a bit more pricey.

- Gillian

On Fri, Jan 20, 2023, 11:34 AM Eric Moore <mooreericnyc@gmail.com> wrote:
Thank you Doug, I have done repair on the plastic, replacing an earlier much worse repair by the previous owner, but there is missing material for the clips that makes it unable to sit correctly. Any suggestions on addressing that?

On the plexi, let me take a look at your page, thank you! I was thrown off by the sharp edge on the plastic for cutting paper, but really it is not at all necassary.

-Eric

On Fri, Jan 20, 2023, 10:28 AM Jones, Douglas W <douglas-w-jones@uiowa.edu> wrote:
From:  Eric Moore [mooreericnyc@gmail.com] -- Friday, January 20, 2023 8:31 AM

> The top cover plastic has broken,

Testors liquid plastic cement works on the plastic, making bonds just about as strong as the original.  You can buy an ounce or so at any hobby shop, and it only takes a few drops.  What takes time is setup.  You need to clamp the broken pieces in the correct relationship to each other and then use the brush applicator to run the solvent into the cracks -- capillary action will pull the solvent into the cracks.  Then let it sit for a day so the solvent can evaporate.

> and the clear window is badly cracked.

Replace the window.  You can buy plexiglass (I bought a piece at an art supply store).  I cut the tapered edge with a carpenter's plane (clamp the plexiglass between pieces of wood pre-cut to the correct angle, then plane the exposed edge.  The planed surface has a frosted surface, but brisk scrubbing with a Mr Clean polishing pad made it crystal clear.

My whole experience repairing a 33 cover is documented here (follow the links for more detail):

-- https://homepage.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/pdp8/UI-8/bugs.shtml#17

            Doug Jones
            jones@cs.uiowa.edu
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