[GreenKeys] Model 28 KSR wall mount model

Sun Sep 8 10:53:46 EDT 2024

M28 wall mount wiring diagrams are at
https://www.navy-radio.com/manuals/tty/573-116-400-iss2-6902.pdf

M35 wall mount wiring diagrams are at
https://www.navy-radio.com/manuals/tty/wd/pc/6002wd-pc-2023-346.pdf
And
https://www.navy-radio.com/manuals/tty/wd/pc/6005wd-pc-2023-347.pdf

The main wiring diagram index is at
https://www.navy-radio.com/tty/tty-wd-list.htm

Have fun!
Nick England K4NYW
www.navy-radio.com

On Sat, Sep 7, 2024 at 8:09 PM Jim Cooper <jim.w2jc at gmail.com> wrote:

> On 4 Sep 2024 at 18:52, David S wrote:
> > Photos are attached
> >
> > TT6.jpg is the 1/4in audio jack, same kind of thing I see electric
> > guitars use.  Been forever since I have seen one.
> Notice first that the plug (not jack) is a TRS type ...
> Tip - ring - sleeve
> My guess would be that is the way the unit is connected
> into the "local loop" -- which is generally a 120vDC source
> with a big (power) limiting resistor which sets the "loop current" to
> either 60mA or 20mA ...  depending on how
> the selector magnet is wired.
> [image: graphic]
> Often such a plug is wired using the tip and ring so that
> the sleeve (and the sleeve of the jack into which it plugs)
> is not hot with the 120vDC ...
> I would strongly suggest that the first thing you do is
> to use an ohmmeter and check if any of the three wires
> on the plug go to terminals on the selector magnet.
> Actually, before that measure the resistance between
> tip and ring
> tip and sleeve
> ring and sleeve
> this can give you a clue what is on the other end of the wire!
> if you DO get continuity between the plug wire(s) and the
> selector magnet, that will immediately confirm it is the
> loop plug.  If no continuity, then you'll have to physically
> trace the plug's wire into the guts and see where it goes;
> it may well go to the Electrical Service Unit -- which will
> lead you to a fascinating expedition of discovery ...
> > TT5.jpg is the bottom shelf area of
> > this wall mount unit, which houses
> > the paper spool and the "Electric
> > Service Unit".  The 1.4in audio jack
> > cable comes in on the right side as
> > a grey cable, extends to the far left
> > and enters behind the lower black
> > cover panel.
> OK, then the gray cable does NOT go
> into the metal box "C" I presume.  It looks to me like it
> goes in behind the black cover of the terminal strip; so
> you will want to remove the black cover and determine
> what terminals the gray cable goes to....   if you can find
> ANY indication of a military or Bell System configuration
> ID you might ask on Green Keys if anyone has the schematic
> for that configuration.
> [image: graphic]
> The plug at "D" looks to me like an AC plug.
> You will want to take the cover off box "C"
> and see what is inside ... might be a heavy duty
> "motor control" relay, OR something else.
> You will spend a lot of project time playing
> detective, trying to find out what is connected
> to what ...  hopefully you are good at drawing
> schematics and/or wiring diagrams !!
> > There is disintegrating material on
> > the interior walls which I assume
> > could be sound dampening foam of
> > some sort?  It crumbles to the
> > touch.
> Yes, that WAS sound dampening foam!
> and it is very common for it to disintegrate
> over the years.
> > The important stuff like wires and
> > metal all appear in good shape, just
> > dirty.
> Before you apply any power to the unit,
> and after you do your basic cleanup, you will
> want to manually turn the fan on the motor
> (be careful at first that you are turning in
> the direction that causes the gears and
> mainshaft to turn; if not, stop and turn the
> other way).  You want to be able to manually
> turn the motor long enough to be sure that
> the main shaft and all the other 'stuff' is
> working freely -- no sticking or binding.
>
> > I may have been lucky in finding
> > this wall mount unit, it appears to
> > be uncommon, and coincidentally
> > perfect for the application I have
> > in mind.
> wall mounts ARE quite rare...
> your situation is called SERENDIPITY !!
> > > btw, I have a mint (in original sealed foil packaging)
> > > copy of TM 11-5820-402-10  Technical Manual
> > > for AN/VRC-12, -44, -46, -48, -49 ...  rather than try
> > > to pedal it on eBay for whatever, I'll slip it into the
> > > box with the M28 manuals.
> >
> > Yes please, thank you so much,  I will put it to good use.
> There was no space left in the M28 manual box to put
> the TM 11 in, so it was in with the two rolls of paper.
> The M28 box is full and is already sealed and addressed,
> so I'd rather not take it all apart now.
> >
> > >> Are you signed up on the Green Keys chat group?
> >
> > I did find that and am reading a
> > bunch.  I have alot of terminology to
> > learn and concepts to grasp.  This
> > machine is fascinating, I really love
> > these electromechanical devices.
> Everyone on that list loves the electro-
> mechanics, as well as the sound and smell
> of these machines !    The list is a great
> resource to learn from, and a great bunch
> of guys to ask for help and info.
> > The more I read the more I am sure I
> > will have to get a terminal device,
> > its good there are some options.  I
> > had the (incorrect) assumption I
> > could connect via any serial RS232
> > and have that work.
> Keep in mind that all Teletype machines,
> excluding the "newer" ones that were for
> crypto and use extensive electronics inside,
> were built to run on DC current -- turned on
> and off in 'binary code'...   Baudot code for
> all up to Model 28.
> To interface the DC current loop (60mA or 20mA)
> with RS-232 you would need a suitable converter.
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