[GreenKeys] M28ASR perf question

Sun Feb 27 20:27:40 EST 2022

Ok, check out this video:
https://youtu.be/kUEECov3wZE

These bars seem to be “stuck.” Any bit that I manually release, will begin to work FB. Should the act of switching the K/KT/T switch somehow reset these? Is this the function of the “Punch slide reset bail?” In the image below, it loks like it could lift the bars to unlock them?

[cid:image001.png at 01D82C18.799F7440]

73 Eugene W2HX
Subscribe to my Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/w2hx-channel/videos

From: Nick England <navy.radio at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2022 6:33 PM
To: W2HX <w2hx at w2hx.com>
Cc: GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net; jim.w2jc at gmail.com
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] M28ASR perf question

The keyboard transmitter contacts are controlled by the keyboard code bars. Those contacts provide the serial electrical connection between keyboard and printer. There is no mechanical connection for transferring characters from keyboard to printer.

The keyboard code bars are extended to the left to mechanically transfer characters from keyboard to perf/reperf. The code bar extensions (“basket”) are probably where your problem lies. It may be just a matter of aligning the perf/reperf punch slide latches to line up with the keyboard code bar extensions.

The perf/reperf actually cycles faster than the printer so that in T mode you can type/perf faster than the printer’s 60wpm. In K and KT mode the keyboard runs at the same speed as the printer.

N.B. A perf has no electrical connection. A reperf has a selector magnet input. Lots of 28ASRs have a perf only, so the cam disengages the perf/reperf.

Here’s the dope-
https://www.navy-radio.com/manuals/tty/28asr-kt-switching.pdf

Cheers
Nick

On Sun, Feb 27, 2022 at 5:59 PM W2HX <w2hx at w2hx.com<mailto:w2hx at w2hx.com>> wrote:
>Most likely the transfer bars from the keyboard to the perf ...  best to get the adjustment manual and run thru them before anything else.

Question. Are these the same transfer bars used to actuate the printer? The printer works fine from the keyboard. So could the problem be how the reperf is bolted down to the plate, maybe it was bolted down slightly off kilter? Could it be that simple? Again, I'm hoping that because when I type and the printer prints the character perfectly from the keyboard, maybe the keyboard transfer bars are aligned ok?

> Usually there is a cover over the punch block which guides the confetti into a chute going to a chad box, which gets emptied by you when it gets full.
Anyone have some pictures of this? I don't see much room in the cabinet for a chad box, but maybe I'm not looking at the right area?

> finding the sticky transfer bars is probably the first thing you ought to do ... then you will have a working punch, and if you decide to swap for another reperf the keyboard bars will already be set up.
Ok, so this makes me think you are saying the problem may be with just the keyboard transfer bars and not the interface of those bars to the reperf? You seem to indicate that putting in another reperf would likely have the same problem.

Thanks for all the comments!

73 Eugene W2HX
Subscribe to my Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/w2hx-channel/videos

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Cooper <jim.w2jc at gmail.com<mailto:jim.w2jc at gmail.com>>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2022 5:24 PM
To: W2HX <w2hx at w2hx.com<mailto:w2hx at w2hx.com>>; GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net<mailto:GreenKeys at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [GreenKeys] M28ASR perf question

On 27 Feb 2022 at 21:34, W2HX wrote:

>   1.  Are the sticking bits most
> likely an issue with the perf
> mechanism or the keyboard levers? If
> it is the keyboard, then a new
> perforator wouldn't help fix it

Most likely the transfer bars from the keyboard to the perf ...  best to get the adjustment manual and run thru them before anything else.

>   2.  What is involved in swapping a perforator? Hard? Easy?

relatively easy.  Though with the KT bars from the keyboard, you will have the same problem with getting them aligned and non-binding.

>   3.  Where do the chads go with a
> full chad unit? How are the chads
> emptied? Are there any modifications
> I would need to my cabinet? Anyone
> have a video on this?

Usually there is a cover over the punch block which guides the confetti into a chute going to a chad box, which gets emptied by you when it gets full.

> I guess I could attempt to find the
> cause of the sticking bits, but if I
> really want a full chad unit, why
> not just replace it. Would seem the
> path of least resistance. But open
> to ideas.

finding the sticky transfer bars is probably the first thing you ought to do ... then you will have a working punch, and if you decide to swap for another reperf the keyboard bars will already be set up.

w2jc

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