[GreenKeys] TT-4A/TG
Mark Foltarz
Foltarz at rocketmail.com
Sat Jun 22 07:10:39 EDT 2019
Duncan, Excellent advice. I will continue with this after the field day operations.tnxMark
On Friday, June 21, 2019, 5:09:23 PM EDT, Duncan Brown <duncanancy at earthlink.net> wrote:
Mark
On 6/20/2019 22:28, Mark Foltarz wrote:
Duncan,
I tried the loop through the keyboard and it is still typing funny. If I hit a "T" for example it will mostly type a "T" but it seems to often then type another character out of the blue. Sounds like something is sticking in the selector area. You need to look at the actual code to get an idea of what is sticking. When you type "T", what dioes it type? Is it always the same error? "T" is 00001. What is the error character? Is there a relationship in the code? ie, does it type "O" = 00011?
Type a string of RYs. R is 01010, "Y" is 10101, so you are alternating the bits and all the levers that make up the selector mechanism. By looking at the error characters, you can see what bits are sticking. Look at the levers and see if any are sticking.
Try running 5-10 lines of RYs and see if things get better. Sometimes on a machine that has sat for a while, it just needs to be loosened up. make sure things are well lubricated, but keep oil away from the armature and magnet pole faces. Clean the pole faces with a clean sheet of paper.
Also the carriage return button does not cause a carriage return line feed.
Carriage Return and Line Feed are separate functions. Some printers would automatically generate a local CR & LF when the type basket got to the right end, but the TT-4A did not. ( There was a version of the TT-4 designed for RTTY/RATT that did, but it had a different model number. The TT-4's big brother, the TT-98, had local CR-LF at end of line.)
I have moved around the Armature to the point where the magnet engages the printer, and I have slowly moved through the Range settings. Not having much luck for a clean print. Not sure where to look next.
Leave the Range control at about 60 and adjust the Armature for best copy while receiving RYs. What are you using to generate a test signal? Something other than the keyboard? You need another source that you know generates a good signal.
Good luck & have fun,
Duncan
K2OEQ
tnx Mark
On Thursday, June 20, 2019, 6:26:11 PM EDT, Duncan Brown <duncanancy at earthlink.net> wrote:
Francis,
Don't worry too much about the motor speed yet. (Motor speed only needs
to be set ~ +/- 10% for proper operation. (ie, a 60WPM machine like the
TT-4 can copy 66WPM European transmissions.)
First test is to connect your ST-5000 TU to the TT-4 terminals 1 & 4,
with 5 strapped to 6 and 2 strapped to 3. Polarity doesn't matter other
than which way the meter reads. (Other, later, Kleinschmidt machines
like the TT-76 &TT-98 are polarity sensitive.)
With the loop connected, you should be able to type on the keyboard and
and see what you type on the printer. The motor speed won't matter,
since both keyboard & printer are at the same speed. If it does not
print what you type ("garble"), try adjusting the "Armature" and "Range"
controls. "Range" will normally be set about 50-60.
A better oil than sewing machine oil is SAE20. 3-in-One makes a 20 wt
oil that is good. If the machine has not been run in a while, it may
need to run for 10-20 min. to get the lubrication worked in and loosen
things up. A good grease is Lucas Red-N-tacky.
I spent my year in Viet Nam keeping TT-4s running.
Good luck & Have fun,
Duncan Brown, K2OEQ
USASA 31J30
Antique Wireless Assoc. Museum,
Asst. Curator, Commercial Equipment
(also chief TTY op & repairman)
www.antiquewireless.org
On 6/20/2019 17:54, Mark Foltarz via GreenKeys wrote:
> Francis,
>
> Read the manual on the novel method of speed control for the motor.
> That shaft sticking out of the motor that the three dots on the plate
> is how you will set the speed.
>
> There is a tuning fork in the cover of the TTY. You will notice there
> are thin l metal plates at the top of the fork.
> You strike the fork and look at the dots through the vibrating metal
> plates.
>
> Here is the fun part : Push the rod sticking out of the motor ( yes,
> while it is running) to slow the motor down. Pull the rod to speed it
> up. The idea is see a ball as stationary as possible through the
> vibrating tuning fork.
>
> If you find that is will not go either faster or slower you have
> reached the end of travel on the gear the set the speed. Remove the
> three dotted plate and then the governor cover and manually adjust the
> gears to some point where you can restart the motor and adjust with
> the rod.
>
> Frankly I am thinking of using a variac for fine adjustments !
>
> I still don't have mine making copy yet. It might be the adjustments
> on the TTY or even my test generator may not be good. I have to check.
>
> Don't forget to order a new ribbon. Reinking does not work - at least
> not for me.
>
> 73
> Mark
>
>
>
> On Thursday, June 20, 2019, 11:28:12 AM EDT, Francis S
> <fsurovec at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Mark....
>
> Gotta thank you for the quick response to my email....... I see the
> switch on the side that indicates LINE/DC LINE so your info clears
> that up for me. I ordered some sewing machine oil and other stuff to
> lube the machine before turning it on.... everything turns smoothly
> when I turn the motor by hand. It was in the attic of another ham op
> for years and years..... when I got it I was very excited due to it's
> condition .... but was worried about the line current situation. I
> retired and due to health issues with my wife the unit was in my attic
> for several years too! Things (health wise) have settled down of late
> and I hope to be able to get into the shack and hook this up. I don't
> recall any input wires going to the magnets on the unit though..... I
> think all I saw was the power cord..... gotta take a closer look see
> and see what I have to work with.
>
> The manuals will be a great help too...
>
> 73,
>
> Francis
> WA3GGV
>
> On Sat, Jun 15, 2019 at 11:43 AM Mark Foltarz <Foltarz at rocketmail.com
> <mailto:Foltarz at rocketmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Francis,
>
> >From the manual :
>
> a. Receive Circuit During Message Reception (TT-4(*)/TG and
> TT-335/TG. The receive circuit of the TT-4(*)/TG and TT-335/TG is
> capable of operating with neutral teletypewriter impulses only.
> The signal current level in the receive circuit may be either 60
> ma (LINE switch in DC LINE position) or 20 ma (LINE switch in
> VOICE FREQ LINE position).
>
> http://rattrig.com/Documents%20&%20Manuals/TTY%20Gear/TM%2011-5815-206-34.pdf
> pg 84
>
> On Saturday, June 15, 2019, 4:58:41 AM EDT, Francis S
> <fsurovec at gmail.com <mailto:fsurovec at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>
> Mark.......
>
> Just wondering if you ever got any info on lubrication for your
> TT-4A. I also have one of these machines that has not been used in
> many years and it needs to be lubricated too. Also, can you shed
> any light as to what you are using for a TU? I have an ST-5000 but
> the loop current is 60ma..... I believe this machine uses 20ma.
> When I first got this machine I plugged it in and it ran open
> nicely but after doing some research and finding that the loop
> current was so low I didn't pursue it. Now that I have the time I
> would like to get it up and running.
>
> Thanks in advance if you can help me with these two questions.
>
> 73,
>
> Francis
> WA3GGV
> Cleveland, GA
>
>
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