[GreenKeys] 33 keytops

[Pete Lancashire]

I received a sample of a 2 part epoxy that have very high flow
characteristics, and few samples of Cyanoacrylates. I have not concerned
myself very much with the discoloration.

One of the issues I've not come up with a repeatable solution is cleaning
out the spaces between the cracks. When I get the ultrasonic tank built I'm
going to
experiment with it. Its main goal is for cleaning metal, removing the
backed oil and grease etc. One has to be careful since the surplus
transducers I have if fully
energized could make things worse. Each is rated for up to 200W.

So far five projects.The keycaps, replacement print hammers for 28/35 tape
punches and printers, laser cutter for felt, and the ultrasonic tank,
rebuild the vacuum pump that would be used for the keycap project.

Just need to retired to get the time :-)

-pete

On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 6:36 PM, Justin Scott <tty at impakt.net> wrote:

> Thanks, Wayne.
>
> Yeah, also Nick sent me some things from the archives which look helpful
> as well.
>
> I had considered that I might take all the cracked keys that I have that I
> have doubles for and experiment with them, but at the same time, I figured
> someone somewhere had done some experimentation on this.  I like also
> Pete's idea of possibly building a clamping jig that can help to glue
> cracked keys back together.  None of mine are fully split, but I have a few
> that have a wide chasm in them.
>
> I see there's been several successful methods now.  I had not considered
> what some people have come to the conclusion of, which is that of a fungus
> due to the organic nature of the plastics used.  I had assumed, as most
> seem to think, some form of oxidation.  I can't say as to which is more
> accurate.
>
> I had thought about possibly trying the "retrobrite" hydrogen peroxide
> that computer restorers have been using, but I'm still not convinced this
> is something I wish to use on my plastics.  I had thought about plastic
> polishes, which I've seen some archive conversation about that with good
> results.  Another thought has been to wipe them down with naptha or
> similar, but some plastics turn to goo with such solvents, while other
> formulas rejuvenate nicely.
>
> I have one 33 that is immaculate, thanks in part to your help and Dave
> Tumey's help.  On that unit, I had to rebuild the right endcap of the
> keyboard assembly because it had broken apart at some point.  This unit
> didn't have much "white funk" when I started, but with basic cleaning and
> some mild plastic polish, which got me to this point:
> http://i.imgur.com/cAmx6Ww.jpg
>
> But I have others that are far worse off in the first place, which I
> wasn't certain this method would work for me, such as:
> http://i.imgur.com/Uw3wS0W.jpg
>
> The dirt has been cleaned, but I've not tried the other techniques I
> already used on the former machine.
>
> Definitely interested in your crude method, if only in the interest of
> completeness of understanding of what's available to me. :)
>
> cheers,
> dj
>
> Wayne Durkee(teletypeparts) wrote:
> > Dave Tumey has a process that is quite time consuming, but if you want
> the best way his is.
> >
> >
> > If the keytops are all evenly chalky, I clean with 409 and call it
> good.  The problem is some keytops get chalky and others dont.  Maybe
> different runs of plastic in manufacturing?  That makes the kybd ugly.
> >
> >
> > I have a way to fix that but its so crude I hesitate to share it here.
> Contact me off list and I will tell.  Just dont share it on GK.
> >
> >
> > Be sure and not remove the kybd cover unless the kybd is in the pan or
> on a jig.  See pic.
> >
> >
> > 73,
> >
> >
> > Wayne
> >
> >
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